NickJBar1 0 Report post Posted January 26, 2015 Hi recently purchased a 1983 Turbo and amongst other jobs I want to replace the cant rail trims that I've already purchased. Any tips / pictures? Appears best way is to remove the rear side windows then remove Pop rivets and trims etc then fit new trims. Is it really that straight forward? Anyone close to me done this job? I'm near Petersfield in Hampshire. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonwat 125 Report post Posted January 26, 2015 I did it many he ago, no need to remove the windows, just be careful removing the fibreglass trim as it's well stuck down. , You'll need to trim the chrome plastic strip where it runs down the windscreen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TAR 259 Report post Posted January 27, 2015 do a search, there is someone doing this at the moment and they have provided some good images. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NickJBar1 0 Report post Posted January 27, 2015 Only one I could find had the images removed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
molemot 511 1 Vehicles Report post Posted January 27, 2015 Getting the cant rails off without damaging them is a good trick! I ended up having to do extensive repairs, including covering them both in glass cloth and epoxy, as the stress cracks resulting from removal weren't going to go away... The new trims need to be trimmed to fit...this involves cutting one side off to fit along the top of the car, and the other side to go down the windscreen. As you get the old one off, it becomes clear what is needed. Pop rivetting the cant rails back also needs care as it is very easy to mark the surrounding trim with the rivet gun...and also when drilling out the old rivets. The trim is pop rivetted to the car roof, also use sealant so that water won't leak in through the rivet holes...I used silicone sealant under the trim, too. The cant rails fit into the U shaped channel on the trim and then get rivetted on the flange in the door opening. Good luck!!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nelly 93 1 Vehicles Report post Posted January 27, 2015 Hi Nick, I am in Eastleigh and have done this on my S2, let me know if you need some help. I have some pics I can post up if you want. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slewthy 110 Report post Posted January 27, 2015 I have done this on my S3. Its an area of the car I dont look at too closely!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markt 35 1 Vehicles Report post Posted January 28, 2015 Lotusfab posted a few pics on his restoration thread here... http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/65709-s1-project-car-part-2-the-continuation/page-4 Will have to do mine too at some stage. Think I'll be leaving it to the bodywork guy to do though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NickJBar1 0 Report post Posted January 28, 2015 Hi Nick, I am in Eastleigh and have done this on my S2, let me know if you need some help. I have some pics I can post up if you want. Hi yes some photos would be very welcome. my email address is [email protected] - Many thanks for your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nelly 93 1 Vehicles Report post Posted January 29, 2015 Hi Nick, Had a look for photos and not been able to find any, sorry. I did find one showing the rail removed, and you can see the fixing holes for the rail which may help: The rivets for the rail are accessed by taking the internal trim off above the doors so you will drill them out from inside the car. There are a couple above the rear quater window which you get to from outside the car. The black trim surround on the glass may need to come off though to access them As others have said, the trim from SJ needs a section cut off of it as from memory it is a T section in profile ad you need to trim the stalk of the T of down the entire length. There is a curved end which is the bit which fits around the rail to give the chrome finish. I bonded mine on, there was no evidence of any other fixing method. Where the rail kinks to go down the A pillar you will need to notch a "V" out of the trim to allow it to follow the angle. As Molemot mentions, use silicone after you have re-fitted them (I used it on the rail where it met the bodywork too). Its much easier doing it then describing it, and if I can do it anyone can! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mesprit87 21 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Quick related question, is the window surround just glued in place, is it easy to remove without breaking it. The foam in my post is deteriorating and it's snowing black chunks inside when I drive the car... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DaveyT 138 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Quarter light windows? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mesprit87 21 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 I guess that is how you call them, the small ones behind the door. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DaveyT 138 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Possibly 2 parts to remove then. The foam is inside the "ear" which is both stuck and riveted on its forward edge IIRC. The surround trim is just stuck on, but if it's the original glue (solbit?), it helps to use a hot wire and go round with that. We needed one person inside and one outside the car to do it! However, you may be able to get the ear off without removing the surround..can't remember exactly. Slewthy gave me the replacement foam which I believe is fish tank filter material Good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mesprit87 21 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Thanks Dave, I think I don't have the choice about the window trim,the pop rivets are sitting underneath. I already have the foam, another good source is replacement foam from a humidifier. (Although I doubt these units are very popular in UK...) Luc Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andy b 22 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 When i done mine on the turbo and NA i used a long bladed knife the type where you snap the blade if it goes blunt to remove the black trim around the window just run it around it does take some time not to damage the trim . I then put a 12v battery charger on the exposed wires which re heat the window sealer and softens it the battery charger would cut out on the trip 9amps so it was safe i would think twice about a battery. i let the charger cycle for 10mins. then i used the knife again to cut the window sealer that was the only way i could get at the rivets. When i refitted the trim i used black self tapers to hold the trim above the door as they also hold the clips that hold the finisher from door to roof (inside) cutting the new chrome plastic trim i also done with the sharp blade. i used sikoflex to re seal the windows. and fit the plastic trim. Its not a bad job when you get into it. I also recommend you remove the black metal trim on the bottom of the window easy to do whilst the window is out be careful not to snap the welded studs spray with oil and give them time to soak it will be rusty underneath. When you remove the window the sealant that is left it will have rubber spacers set in it try and keep them it gives you an idea when re fitting i placed them in the sikoflex . I also put spacers under the glass to stop it slipping down whilst the sikoflex went off gravity does work LOL. Good luck take your time it is well worthwhile it does improve the appearance. andy b Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
