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Esprit Turbo Cant Rail Trims

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Hi recently purchased a 1983 Turbo and amongst other jobs I want to replace the cant rail trims that I've already purchased. Any tips / pictures? Appears best way is to remove the rear side windows then remove Pop rivets and trims etc then fit new trims. Is it really that straight forward? Anyone close to me done this job? I'm near Petersfield in Hampshire.

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I did it many he ago, no need to remove the windows, just be careful removing the fibreglass trim as it's well stuck down.


You'll need to trim the chrome plastic strip where it runs down the windscreen.


John W

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Getting the cant rails off without damaging them is a good trick! I ended up having to do extensive repairs, including covering them both in glass cloth and epoxy, as the stress cracks resulting from removal weren't going to go away...  

The new trims need to be trimmed to fit...this involves cutting one side off to fit along the top of the car, and the other side to go down the windscreen. As you get the old one off, it becomes clear what is needed. Pop rivetting the cant rails back also needs care as it is very easy to mark the surrounding trim with the rivet gun...and also when drilling out the old rivets. The trim is pop rivetted to the car roof, also use sealant so that water won't leak in through the rivet holes...I used silicone sealant under the trim, too. The cant rails fit into the U shaped channel on the trim and then get rivetted on the flange in the door opening. Good luck!!!!

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Hi Nick,

Had a look for photos and not been able to find any, sorry.  I did find one showing the rail removed, and you can see the fixing holes for the rail which may help:




The rivets for the rail are accessed by taking the internal trim off above the doors so you will drill them out from inside the car. There are a couple above the rear quater window which you get to from outside the car.  The black trim surround on the glass may need to come off though to access them


As others have said, the trim from SJ needs a section cut off of it as from memory it is a T section in profile ad you need to trim the stalk of the T of down the entire length.  There is a curved end which is the bit which fits around the rail to give the chrome finish.  I bonded mine on, there was no evidence of any other fixing method.  Where the rail kinks to go down the A pillar you will need to notch a "V" out of the trim to allow it to follow the angle.  As Molemot mentions, use silicone after you have re-fitted them (I used it on the rail where it met the bodywork too).


Its much easier doing it then describing it, and if I can do it anyone can!


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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick related question, is the window surround just glued in place, is it easy to remove without breaking it. The foam in my post is deteriorating and it's snowing black chunks inside when I drive the car...

Something I learned about cars or planes, it all works until it doesn't anymore...sometime there is no way around it!

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Possibly 2 parts to remove then. The foam is inside the "ear" which is both stuck and riveted on its forward edge IIRC.

The surround trim is just stuck on, but if it's the original glue (solbit?), it helps to use a hot wire and go round with that. We needed one person inside and one outside the car to do it!

However, you may be able to get the ear off without removing the surround..can't remember exactly.

Slewthy gave me the replacement foam which I believe is fish tank filter material

Good luck

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Thanks Dave,

I think I don't have the choice about the window trim,the pop rivets are sitting underneath. I already have the foam, another good source is replacement foam from a humidifier. (Although I doubt these units are very popular in UK...)


Something I learned about cars or planes, it all works until it doesn't anymore...sometime there is no way around it!

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When i done mine on the turbo and NA i used a long bladed knife the type where you snap the blade if it goes blunt to remove the black trim around the window just run it around it does take some time not to damage the trim .

I then put a 12v battery charger on the exposed wires which re heat the window sealer and softens it the battery charger would cut out on the trip 9amps so it was safe i would think twice about a battery. i let the charger cycle for 10mins. then i used the knife again to cut the window sealer that was the only way i could get at the rivets.

When i refitted the trim i used black self tapers to hold the trim above the door as they also hold the clips that hold the finisher from door to roof (inside) cutting the new chrome plastic trim i also done with the sharp blade. i used sikoflex to re seal the windows. and fit the plastic trim. Its not a bad job when you get into it.

I also recommend you remove the black metal trim on the bottom of the window easy to do whilst the window is out be careful not to snap the welded studs spray with oil and give them time to soak it will be rusty underneath.

When you remove the window the sealant that is left it will have rubber spacers set in it try and keep them it gives you an idea when re fitting i placed them in the sikoflex . I also put spacers under the glass to stop it slipping down whilst the sikoflex went off gravity does work LOL. Good luck take your time it is well worthwhile it does improve the appearance. andy b  

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