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brianc

Radiator change?

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The radiator on my 1988 N/A is starting to leak a bit.

 

Apparently there are 2 different version with a different frame width (54 or 68mm).

 

Is this the thickness of the rad core?  I was wondering if maybe the size had changed over time to improve cooling.  If so, can you fit either to a car i.e. fit the 68mm one to a car which previously had the 54mm one?  

 

I've not had the chance to get under the car yet to measure.

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Can't answer your question directly, BUT:

 

 

 

Why not just have your existing unit re-cored? That's the beauty of the old copper core radiators with metal tanks.

 

I went with the OE, 2 core design, some folks (all Turbo owners) have gone to a three core unit.

 

 

Be prepared to repair a cracked fan shroud and sealing foams when you remove the radiator, BTW.

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Thanks,

 

Hadn't considered that option.

 

Useful tips on what is also likely to be broken when I remove it!

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The front side will probably be plugged up with road debris.

 

The first time I removed my rad, I thought a furry animal was caught up in there!post-424-0-48710900-1423268292.jpg

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Last furry animal I found in my car was a long dead mouse underneath where the distributor is mounted!

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The ABS plastic fan shroud breaks, as Atwell said.  You can repair it with strips of ABS and ABS cement.

 

IMG_5102.JPG

The foam on the top and bottom , is to seal the duct so more air goes through the radiator, but it holds water and rots the metal.  I replaced mine with a rubber mat rolled into a bulb seal.

 

old foam on top and bottom.

P8131350.JPG

Rubber bulb seal that won't hold water

IMG_5106.JPG

totally seals off the gap at the top and bottom

IMAG0366.jpg

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I have had my rad recorded to a 3 row.Se turbo esprit.Cost 250 pounds .But frame had to be altered. Because of the extra width of 3 core rad.My rad was partly blocked internally.Good luck .Mike se turbo

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Yep 3 row recore on mine as well.  Serk intertruck did mine  and repaired the frame. The shroud was shot as well as the 3 fans so dumped the lot and fitted 3 new from carbuildersolutions.   The rad pack is heavy so one man and a jack to remove and 2 people to refit.  Your oil cooler goes through the bottom front of the fibreglass rad surround/under tray.  If its not been apart for ages fittings will have corroded themselves to the cooler and it will be impossible to remove them without wrecking the cooler. SO be prepared to replace it  ( Sjs do them ).  You then have to dissolve the cooler stubs to remove them from the pipe fittings. Loads of threads on here about it.   Worst case is new cooler pipes through from the engine bay and new cooler.  It can end up quite involved as one job morphs into the next.

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Thanks.

 

Looks like I have some fun time ahead of me...

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Regards the rad pack,

 

I don't know if there is a DIY here or on LEW, but it is not necessary to totally drop the entire tray containing the radiator, A/C, and oil cooler.

 

 

Instead, what you do is remove all the hardware holding the tray EXCEPT for the front two bolts, the ones that are very long. (Accessed where the spare tire is)   Just loosen those, so that the tray can tilt down.

 

You also must first remove the hardware holding the side P-clamps for the oil cooler lines so that the tray will drop enough.

 

Then, the radiator frame w/fans can be removed by a single weakling (Me! :thumbsup:  ). I needed help putting it back in however, one person to lift and wiggle (especially if she's HOT  :D  ) and the other to get the hardware started into their holes.

 

With this method, you don't need to remove the A/C or oil cooler lines.  Less stuff to repair...

:P 

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Hmmm that's interesting and worth a try I think.

One thing that may make the job slightly easier on my car whatever the process is that I don't have air conditioning so less plumbing in that area I would imagine.

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You may end up having to grind the nuts off the bumper bolts ( from inside the under bonnet area) as they were all rusted solid on mine and  a few others. Probably easier to remove the bonnet as well.  Obviously stainless bolts when you reassemble makes life easier next time.

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You may end up having to grind the nuts off the bumper bolts ( from inside the under bonnet area) as they were all rusted solid on mine and  a few others. Probably easier to remove the bonnet as well.  Obviously stainless bolts when you reassemble makes life easier next time.

 

Malcolm, I suspect that 'you may end up...' should be replaced with 'you will end up...' in my case!!

 

I've got a large box of stainless nuts and bolts especially for this kind of reason!!  Mind you I'm getting through them quite fast as every nut and bolt and washer I am having to remove from the car as I perform jobs, is being replaced by the stainless steel equivalent.

 

So I may need to replenish soon...

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I do wonder if I shouldn't reply to your threads............. I don't sound very encouraging!!!! However its character building and as I kept telling myself "you wont have to do it again".................. and if by chance you do it will come apart easier.   

 

It will be worth it in the end, you will also know its done right.    Have fun.

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Malcolm,

 

On the contrary.

 

You've been a source of useful knowledge and encouragement so keep it up  :thumbsup:

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I've got to drop the rad out of mine tomorrow I expect. It's seeping and I'm not driving her without sorting it.

Had a quick look - think it'll come off the frame and drop out with the fans on.

Did you manage to do it without the hassle of stripping all the other stuff off.

Mines an esprit s - and as such no charge coolers etc - just a rad and What looks like and aircon unit in front of it

Any help - or top tips - would be much appreciated

Seems a recore is pretty cheap at hereford radiators

Thanks

Barry

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Try to do it without undoing the oil coolers.  Unless they have been done recently  the stub of the cooler breaks off in the hose end then you have to remove that and buy a new cooler. There are loads of threads on here about it.  You  can fit a triple row recore in there and quite a lot of us have dumped the fiesta fans and gone modern spal or kenlow type. From memory I fitted 2x10" and a 11" from Car builder solutions and they draw an enormous amount of heat out of the rad.  You may need to weld up the frame as mine had disappeared in places. 

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From the brief glance I've had it looks like it just unbolted and will wiggle out.

When you went to three row - did it change the width and did you have any problems getting it back in.

I'm getting the grinder ready for the rusty bolts!!

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Hi Barry I must have got a world record .Approx 3 hours to remove rad.oil coolers mucked up by previous owner. Got new ones.Three mounths to put back rad lol .Went to a three row frame brackets needed to be altered .Good luck ....Mike

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Mike

I want it to be and hour off - 3 days at rebuild and an hour back on!!! Might be pushing it though

Will replace the old fans with some high flow ones of ebay me thinks - saves the hassle of worrying about them on strip down!!!

Was the three hours on a ramp? Or struggling on the ground with some axle stands?

IM going for the ramp option and would like to know how annoyed I'm going to get!!!

Cheets

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May I ask how you Guys loosen the oil ines for the oil cooler (or coolers as in the SE)?

 

Also, how do you come about the Air con system hoses?

 

Kind regards,

Jacques   (1990 SE).

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On mine, there is no rust, so loosening the lower fitting on each oil cooler was easy.

 

2 adjustable wrenches.

P8211380.JPG

P8211379.JPG

 

In side the bonnet

Loosen the top fitting nut.

P8211388.JPG

 

 

Then there is this nut, which is held by green loctite, and very difficult!

I removed the upper hoses and used a socket on these with some penetrating oil.

P8131334.JPG

 

Then there are 2 bolts into the top of each cooler, the bolt is under each head light lift motor.

You have to remove the bolt to allow the oil cooler to swivel.

P8211387.JPG

 

One of mine was rusty and did break, so I had to drill it out, and re-tap the cooler.

P8131339.JPG

P8211376.JPG

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Hi again Barry .Three hours to get rad pack .i was watching and helping to take the weight of all the rads.Heavy for one person.My new oil coolers are from setrab .But they differ from the. Figment on the se .Mine both have top feeds .My existing ones had been mucked around with .Elbows far to low....Good luck again...Mike

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