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Have just begun wiring these. Can someone confirm in operation should they rotate in one direction then stop, reverse direction then stop? Or do they just rotate in the same direction and stop to raise and lower. If they reverse will have to dismantle entire unit to determine how they are wired, unless someone has a circuit diagram for them.

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The motor runs one direction only on the single motor system (mine), I assume the same applies for the twin headlight system, but am not positive. I presume you are not going to fit a single motor system for originality Fabian ?  :no

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No, I think the twin motors are a big improvement. Will have to figure out how the circuit works as the new harness has single motor wiring. May adapt this part of the circuit. Have run some tests and got the motors moving in the same direction, just wanted to confirm this is correct before connecting the pods. Seems logical the stops inside cut motor power at the right time to make a single direction operation possible and the wiring would be simpler.

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Pretty sure they just go in one direction. The motors are used in a tr7 so you might pick up something on the web about those

I used to have a diagram somewhere of the setup I used...... Think it used 2 relays per side and the inline diode.

If you want me to dig it out give me a shout.

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If I were you I would uprate the wiring if you intend to fit two motors to a car which originally had one. Mine was modified to have two motors and it burnt the wiring out. Think about what happens when you modify it to two motors... they are mechanically linked and therefore have to run at exactly the same speed. If you stuck 12V on each motor individually do you think they would run at exactly the same speed? Almost certainly not, so one of them is going to be faster than the other and therefore the current will increase as they fight one another. The original wiring was only rated at about 8 or 9A (purple wire from the fuse box).

 

On my car the bottom of the pods had been trashed where the linkages had pulled the brackets out of the plywood possibly because the linkages were different lengths or where they'd been fighting each other?

 

Paul.

Edited by Paul Coleman

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While Paul has you uprating the wiring to the headlamp motors, my tip of the day is to install relays inside the door shells (one for up and one for down), a really good new ground and a new +ve fused feed to each of the window motors. Makes an astonishing difference to the motor speed and prevents window switch burnout.

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Do you have both pods linked with a dual motor configuration Paul?

I removed the link bar and replaced the awful nylon bushes that went round the bar with rose bushes.

Each pod has a separate motor and they are totally independent.

It also means if you have a failure you can wind the lights up manually.

I would have thought that it would be impossible to do if the pods were linked together an driven by two motors?

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I have a parallel circuit from the original loom which I am using. Think your right the new loom is insufficient for the extra load so am increasing to 17 amp cable to the fuse box. Have to figure out if I can use any of the S1 wiring to the relays for control of the lights.

The dual blower circuit I have from the old loom. It doesn't have relays and is 17 amp wire, plugs straight onto fuse box.

The Horns are a problem. The twin snails have wiring already on the loom and no relay. Has anyone unrated the wiring on these, they are rated at 10 amp?

Then have to fit a choke switch and seat belts circuit.

The S1 loom has only a fraction of the wiring on my old loom, still considering switching back if I don't like how this turns out. Will measure all current flows and wire ratings when I test it out. Most of the loom is now fitted apart from the mods. Was hoping this would be a quick job, think it would be a lot easier if I did another one. Anyone with experience could do this a lot quicker - I'm starting from scratch.

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Paul, expect linkages will pull out if they are adjusted two short, will definately experiment with the adjustment before applying power. Would be a shame to destroy pods after so much work. May have a different set up to you. My pods are mechanically independant, but only linked electronically.

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The twin snails have wiring already on the loom and no relay. Has anyone unrated the wiring on these, they are rated at 10 amp?

 

So my philosophy was this : anything that was powered directly from the column or interior switches should have a relay on it unless it's current draw was low - like the washer motor. The Lucas switches (and I may add the old moulded connectors) are not fit for very high current applications and some parts are pretty expensive if they burn up.  In my car I chose to fit additional relays for : 

 

The headlamp dipped and main beams (evidenced by brown burn marks on the column connector)

Horns (I also fitted a new set of Snail type - in my opinion 10A is way too much for the column switch)

Both electric window motors (at one time those S1 window switches were £40 each!)

Cooling fans (I want to preserve my Otter switch!) plus ensure full voltage at the fans.

 

I forgot about the wiper motor and heater though.  :blush:

 

My car didn't have choke, seatbelt or handbrake switches and I didn't bother adding them. 

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Do you have both pods linked with a dual motor configuration Paul?

I removed the link bar and replaced the awful nylon bushes that went round the bar with rose bushes.

Each pod has a separate motor and they are totally independent.

It also means if you have a failure you can wind the lights up manually.

I would have thought that it would be impossible to do if the pods were linked together an driven by two motors?

My car had two motors but the two pods were mechanically linked together. The previous owner told me that the car was sent back to the factory to be 'upgraded' but by the looks of it they didn't spend a whole lot of time on it! If the motors were mechanically independent you'd need two sets of relays and micro-switches to cope with the fact that they almost certainly wouldn't run at the same speed?

 

Paul.

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My 82 Turbo has two completely mechanically and electrically independant headlight motors. They are only linked inasmuch as they both get powered up at the same time. Having any form of mechanical linkage is asking for trouble, for all the reasons previously stated...the motors run in one direction and the internal switches stop them in the UP and DOWN positions. There is an operating arm which fits on to the splined motor shaft; this drives the threaded rod with two rose joints that goes to the pod operating bracket. This rod is adjustable for length by screwing the rose joints closer together or further apart. Getting the pods set level with the bodywork when down requires one of those beloved Lotus iterative processes......! The pods don't move in perfect sychronicity...nor do they need to, unless you are a bit OCD (!). I've found if I turn mine on and off rapidly I can get them 180 degrees out of sequence and it looks like the car is winking in a mad frenzy.....

It's a good idea to ensure that the drain holes under the pods are clear, or else the headlights can sit in a water bath!

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John

 

Sounds like your arrangement is different to the S1 which had external micro-switches mounted on a bracket near the motor - real Heath Robinson stuff ;)

 

Paul.

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Anyone who has problems with their headlight motors here's some tips based on my experience. I have independant S2 type set up. Got them working but there are a lot of problems. Suggest that when your adjusting the arm length you don't apply any power but used the knob on the motor to manually raise the pod and check for fouling before using power. Also don't run the motors without the arm attached to the rotor as the microswitch inside may not work. This leads to the motor running continuously. On mine one of the arms was bent slightly which I didn't notice. When I run the motor the arm jammed on the motor support bolt. I quickly cut power and was lucky no damage was done. To get them to work required some fault finding. when they would not work the first thing I checked was the earthing. I found an error, one of the relay earth wires was not connected. Easy to check with meter in resistance mode. Still would not work so I checked integrity of power supply wires no relays. They were ok. The motors were working with main beam but not the light switch. I tested the blue power supply to the relays. With the lights on there was no power. I traced the fault to the fuse box. The fuses were corroded and not making contact. Cleaned them and all is working.

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Anyone know where I can get a washer that will fit behind the headlight motor arm, it's very thin S and J don't sell them, the pod won't work properly without it?

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Do you have a pic of the area you're referring to? I've just removed my headlamp motors, brackets, rods etc and can probably help.

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There's a very thin washer, not show here, that fits behind part3, it's essential as it ensures the wheel within the motor housing is located correctly so that the switches inside cut out at the right time. It's very thin. Haven't got a picture.

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Part3? Does this refer to a diagram? Might have to get the offending washer machined up.

Edited by Freemason

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Sorry having trouble uploading pictures, it's the parts manual reference for the light pod and motor diagram.

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Do you mean this washer?

 

Funnily enough, one of my headlamp motors has the washer, the other doesn't!

 

Specs for the washer are: M10 hole, 17mm diameter, 1/2mm thick.

 

 

IMG_1981_zpsavguehqc.jpg

 

 

IMG_1982_zps3lhuyl7t.jpg

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Yep that's it!Thanks. Will have to try and find one or make one. Ps nice job on your car! Will be outstanding when your finished.

Got the rotor arm replaced from S and J, mine was worn in the centre so the light pod would slip when raising and lowering.

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Found them on splatshop.co.uk, .99p!

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Thanks! Hope it's worth all the time, effort and $$$ when it's all done!

 

I can't find the washers on that site in the size we're looking for. Don't suppose you have a direct link to the item?

 

 

Just rebuilt my headlamp rods with titanium bolts, washers and link rod. Got some plastic IGUS rod ends that aren't as thin down to the base as the originals and hit the bracket at the angle shown in the pic below. Is this enough movement or do I need more?

 

IMG_1996_zps9vuknqpl.jpg

Edited by Freemason

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S75540

Shim Washer Din 988 10x16x0.5mm

Availability: 78 In stock

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/shim-washer-din-988-10x16x0-5mm.html

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Shim Washer Din 988 M10 x 16 x 0.5mm

Shim Washer Din 988 10x16x0.5mm

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The 1 mm difference in diameter shouldn't be an issue will post here once I have installed them and let you know,

The rods look great! I think the angle is more than enough, but to be sure assemble a pod and use the manual knob on the rear of the motor to raise the pod slowly and check for obstruction and snags prior to applying power.

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Does anyone know what type and size of thread the serrated nut is that fits on the end of the headlight motor and hols the rotary arm on. It's not 6mm metric! My box of unusable parts grows larger by the day!!!

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