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Barrykearley

Vacuum pipes

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debugging issues on my esprit s - it's got the delco injection system.

I have no vacuum pipe on the vacuum actuator - I know this bit works as when you such on a pipe it increases the revs.

The vac pipe into the relay box at the rear end has a bolt in it - so is disconnected from the throttle jacking solenoid and the exhaust back pressure solenoid.

How do I test either of these solenoids??

The car runs and drives fine, boosts ok, but idles slightly lumpy.

Interestingly the heater doesn't work ...... On 43.03d on the parts manual - it shows a vac feed going to the heater system but can't find that anywhere else in the parts manual - anyone know?

I will replumb these pipes tomorrow - but I'm sure there must have been a reason they were disconnected... Maybe not.....

The cel comes on when driving sometimes - mainly when getting keen with the boost when warm - but it goes off again after a few miles. Can't get espritmon working just yet and the ab link on aldl didn't do anything under the dash...... Have just found the second one in the relay box at the back so will try there.

Previous owner niggles that I'm sure will iron out fine.

Any help greatly welcomed

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Hi Barry .Not any good with spanners.When I bought my car it use to rev up from cold...Then dissconected throtle Jack.Now all ok.Sorry I can't help .But you seem to be on top of it ...Good on you....Mike

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Cheers Mike - I'm sure it's just all silly stuff - my main concern was to get a mechanically solid lump - and that seems fine.

These vac pipes often get blanked off on modern cars as well - it's normally when there's a leak that throws up an engine management light...... Bodge bodge......

It's better to fix than work around.

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Your heater issues and vacuum actuator are most likely linked. I foresee that at some point in your future you will pull out the stereo and lose a significant chunk of wrist skin while you chase perished connectors. :D

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Ahh I had a suspicion they may well be linked

I've got the book of swear words at the ready!!!

Gotta box away these silly niggles - then can concentrate on things like getting the drivers window to open and close!!!!

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did mark sort the rusty window frames or is that another one for you

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No Pete

That's another on the list. I'm enjoying driving her to be fair

Exhaust back pressure valve - that's knackered linkage bust off - so that's why that was blanked. Not sure about the throttle jacking as when connecting that she starts and idles at 2k.

Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram from? I'm not sure if the connectors between the two valves have been mixed up in the past .

Think I may have a vacuum leak so will get her up on the ramp next week

Interestingly enough - air intake pipe had come off the filter box ..... She idles a bit better now.....

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The throttle jack and the EBPV are not strictly necessary for proper engine running, as long as they are removed correctly. The EBPV would obviously block the exhaust unless it is held open with a bracket or removed and replaced with a spacer.  The throttle jack is just there to counteract the EBPV plugging the exhaust.  As long as the EBPV is removed, then the throttle jack may be removed.

 

The Solenoids should be left plugged into the ECU, or else there will be a check engine code IIRC.  Though in my case I am using the EBPV wire to power my electric chargecooler pump.

 

The idle rpm is actually controlled by the IAC stepper motor, and not the throttle jack (that is just raise the rpm extra high while the EBPV is closed).  Even with the throttle jack removed, the IAC will still cause the idle to raise when the engine is cold.

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The Solenoids should be left plugged into the ECU, or else there will be a check engine code IIRC.

Not necessary, only the relay that controls them needs to be left in place.

Edited by sanj

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Great stuff thanks

I will check the Ebpv to blocked open - the linkage is snapped off so most certainly won't work again in a hurry.

If it's just for the cat on warm up - I'm most certainly not bothered

Anyone got or know where to get a full wiring diag from?

Just stripped down the drivers door and rebuilt and cleaned all the switches so they work properly. Mirrors move as they should. The bottom bust off the switch - soldered back onto the pub nicely now

Driver side electric window getting power but not working looks a pig to get out

It's got central locking solenoids - didn't think they were standard - but are wired into what looks an original loom??? Puzzled they don't work,,,,, if I can lay my hands on a diagram I can unpick what's where

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Hurrah I finally have some success !!!

Spilt vacuum hose behind drivers seat in engine Bay Area. Heater now works........

Electric window motor is knackered though - stripped it and rebuilt it but to no avail.....

And the bloody cel light still comes on - but doesn't log any faults........and still have a slight idle issue which I think may be the iac.... Is there any way to test this other than swap out?

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Not necessary, only the relay that controls them needs to be left in place.

 

Ok, thanks Sanj.  I remember you saying that but couldn't remember that it was the relay.

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Hurrah I finally have some success !!!

Spilt vacuum hose behind drivers seat in engine Bay Area. Heater now works........

Electric window motor is knackered though - stripped it and rebuilt it but to no avail.....

And the bloody cel light still comes on - but doesn't log any faults........and still have a slight idle issue which I think may be the iac.... Is there any way to test this other than swap out?

 

For a check engine light on steady, and no ALDL data....  You need 

CHART EMH. 4-2
NO ALDL DATA OR WON’T FLASH CODE 12
“CHECK ENGINE LIGHT” “ON” STEADY
 

 

For the IAC, you should log some data with freescan.  The IAC should start from cold at 170 (engine off, ignition on) and then go down to a stable number 20-40 at idle with a fully warmed engine (~80C).  If not then look for air leaks in the manifold, split rubber elbows, hoses, bad gaskets. If no leaks, then the minimum air rate bleed screw may be slowly adjusted while checking the reading using the IAC counts in freescan to be between 20-40.

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Travis

That's great thanks - but I can't get freescan or espritmon to work on either aldl connector,

I can link ab in the rear and get a 12 flash - but no pc comms

Do you have a copy of chart emh4-2 .? I have this workshop manual but it stops at emf

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Travis

Thank you - I will get the multimeter out Tomorrow and check aldl to ecm wiring.

Fingers crossed

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Travis

I've had a quick look today.

No shorts to 12v or Gnd - was looking to buzz out between rear aldl and ecm. But it's not obvious to me which connections to buzz to.

The ecm connector has a few rows labeled 1-16 I think - the wire colours and awg look like they might change from front to rear. Am I looking at something wrong here?

Cheers

Barrypost-18482-0-20642600-1425405742.jpgpost-18482-0-17280200-1425405755.jpgpost-18482-0-19988000-1425405773.jpg

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Feeling a numpty now - that's the abs unit!!!!

Will have a look in the back shortly

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All,

 

Please could anyone tell me if the vaccum hoses need to be kept attached to the solenoid valves (EBPV/throttle Jack) or blanked off or looped....... Does it matter either way?

 

Mark

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All,

 

Please could anyone tell me if the vaccum hoses need to be kept attached to the solenoid valves (EBPV/throttle Jack) or blanked off or looped....... Does it matter either way?

 

Mark

 

When removing/disabling the EBPV and throttle jack, there are 2 things to consider:

- both should be locked so thay can't accidently move (EBPV secured open and throttle jack not interfering with the throttle cable)

- unconnected vacuum pipes will become leaks, if the solenoids are still powered. So either plug the ougoing pipes from the solenoids or disconnect the solenoids electrically. Or remove the solenoids completely and plug the vacuum feed line.

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Thanks Filip,

 

The EBPV and Throttle jack went long ago and the vaccum hose looped onto itself but I am having trouble with the car idling and wanted to know; if the solenoids are still plugged in (my EBPV solenoid connection is now the CC pump connection) do you need to plug the solenoids in anyway or whether it matters either way,

 

Mark

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Mark,

 

As Sanj said above, the EBPV and throttle jack solenoids do not need to be plugged, just do not remove the relay for those.

 

The idle could be affected by an air leak in the manifold, bad spark, bad injectors, the IAC stepper motor that controls the idle, or a mis adjusted minimum air rate bleed screw.

 

What idle problems symptoms are you having?

 

And can you log any freescan data?

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Thanks Travis.

 

So just to confirm; you do need to have the solenoids connected to the engine wiring harness?

 

The idling issues seem to manifest themselves in the following ways:

 

On start up; the car exhaust spits out a lot of moisture (black liquid).

 

The idling is pretty lumpy but when I press the accelarater; she is very responsive.

 

The idle will some times just completely drop off.

 

Quite often; after the car has been under load i.e. taken her for a quick spin; she will not idle at all and the only way I can keep the engine turning over is to blip the throttle. There is literally no idle at all.

 

The curious thing; is that the TPS is only showing a max of 72% when the throttle is fully depressed.

 

The the IAC reading is170; so I believe that this is  ok.

 

Thoughts?White Lotus 260215.xls

 

Mark

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You do NOT need the EBPV or Throttle jack solenoids connected to the wiring harness, but you DO need the relay still in place.  That is if you have correctly removed the EBPV and throttle jack and plugged their vacuum line.

 

Black sooty water is fairly normal from the exhaust of an Esprit SE.

 

The IAC should be 170 with engine off, and then lower down to 20-40 range at idle when the engine is fully warmed up (above 77C coolant temperature).

 

I'll look at the data a bit later, but if it is just engine off, then it won't be too useful.

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