free hit
rear suspension strip down - Ride/Handling/Suspension/Brakes/Wheels/Tyres - The Lotus Forums - Lotus Community Partner #ForTheOwners Jump to content


rear suspension strip down

Recommended Posts

Just spent the afternoon fighting with the eclat V8, It's out of MOT, and the rear drivers side wheelbearing is shot.


Shaft and hub nut came off without issues (they were recently off). Removing the lower shock bolt was difficult, but I got it out in the end. The lower trailing arm/hub carrier stud is properly seized in the hub carrier. I had to unbolt the trailing arm at the front, and then attack the rear lower link from the diff with a fork type ball joint splitter to get the lower link bush off the stud.


The stud itself isn't coming out of the carrier.


I tried to remove the top of the shock, but found it just turned the top part of the shock. Vice grips on the piston shaft didn't help, and there isn't enough clearance to get at the shock with anything large enough. I ended up cutting through the top shock nut with a 4 inch grinder to remove the shock from the chassis. I then ended up having to cut through the shock shaft to allow me to get the spring off the old shock. It was like corrosion under the rubber dust cover had caused it to swell.


I have a set of rear Spax adjustables to go on, and I have a set of galvanised trailing arms to fit (I can hear rust swishing around the inside of the old one...). I also have a spare set of hub carriers which I can use if need be with a new lower stud bolt.


I've ended up replacing pretty much all of the rear with spares from my stores. Total P.I.T.A. of a job...


Anyone got an idea for getting that stud out of the alloy carrier? I would like to save the carrier and fit a replacement wheel bearing to replenish my spare "on the shelf" items.


A quick confab with John "the nut" suggested a bath of diesel for a week then perhaps try to press it out? I have tried heating the carrier and smacking it with a lump hammer and it is not moving....


over to the floor.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Drill a hole half way along the carrier. Cut the bolt flush with the carrier and soak it overnight in diesel. Then use a drift and a hydraulic press. It will come but be patient. Leave it under pressure for a while if its stubborn. Afterwards, use the drilled hole to fit a grease nipple. Did this to mine and I have no seized bolts since.

Drill the hole in a position so that it can be accessed without having to remove wheel to grease.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was lucky (?) when mine came out eventually with a little heat, but I did wonder about drilling lube holes along the carrier for future maintenance. Would grease nipples be possible or is it best keeping the holes small?

In the garage no-one can hear you scream 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was very lucky with mine too.  I managed to all out with only one stud damaged in the process.  I found twisting, with a couple of locked nuts, more effective than hammering, but I'm sure you tried all these options.  In principle the stubs are very high quality steel and shouldn't corrode too much.


There must come a point where it is simple and cheaper to get a replacement from LotusBits.  I'm sure they have a shed full.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,


Today included the purchase of six grease nipples (two for this job, four for the toolkit) and the arrival of the necessary new studs, nuts and shock bolts from SJ and ebay.


I've followed Michaels tip and drilled a hole in the carrier, and the entire assembly is currently having a bath in diesel, where it will stay for the next few days before a trip to visit a hydraulic press. A chassis engineer and racer talked to me once about the importance of eliminating "sticktion", and I reckon Michaels tip to keep the stud greased is a a great improvement.


I know what you mean Herc, about a replacement being available without hassle from Lotusbits. I already have spare hub carriers, and spare trailing arms, so in truth I don't really need this carrier/arm, but as I have a couple of these cars (and the prospect of more) I like to have a couple of spares on the shelf ready for bolting in.


If the weather is half decent, I'll re-assemble it tommorow and swap the shock on the other side and have a look at replacing the arm on that side with the galvanised replacements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The studs out. I took it to a local garage who pressed it out for beer money.

Carrier is drilled, tapped and featuring a grease nipple and cap on its underside. New studs, bolts, galvanised trailing arms and spax adjustables are waiting to go on.

Having some issues replacing the rubber bush in the lower link- it seems it wants to go 80% of the way in, then it just swells. Will try again pressing it in from the rear today....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good stuff on the carrier.


The lower link bush's are a pig. They always swell when you try and press in. My method, make sure link is completey clean and smooth, lubricate well with copper slip and slowly press into position allowing the bush to relax as its compressed into the link. Overdo the pressure and you risk damaging the rubber by cutting it on the link tube. If this happens, you wont be able to install using the press.


If it sticks again at 80% in, stop pressing and change over to pulling using a fresh bolt and some heavy duty washers. Then at 90% in, swap between both methods until bush is positioned in the centre of the link.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Quick pic of the new grease nipple fitted to the hub carrier. If I was doing it again I would be tempted to site it further round to reduce the possibility of it catching something and snapping off. Its nicely accessible where it is though...




Grease gun was slow with lots of back pressure, but grease swelling from both ends of the bolt, so its working.


Had a bit of a 'mare re-assembling it with those landrover bolts. I also tried something new :


Usually I attach the driveshaft to the drum first, then pull the splines into the driveflange hub using my special puller (bit of wood) and a socket at the hubnut.



This time I located it all in the spline first (easy enough), then jacked it towards the drum with another trolleyjack, then with the shaft suspended from the exhaust using a couple of tiewraps, inserted the bolts into the drum.




I quite liked this method as getting the shaft pulled into the hub and driveflange can be a fiddle. How do others approach this? Drum or Hub first?


Its pretty much back together with the exception of torquing up the front trailing arm bolt and the hubnut:



Shiny new spax adjustables and other bits not looking so shiny anymore now they are covered in grease and copperslip (this was just a trial fit together):






  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...