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Hi all

Before I go ferreting around does anyone know if the angle of the window frame can be adjusted. My drivers side door fits perfectly but the window frame could do with angling in a bit

Ta

Mark

Edited by winners

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Yes. There are a number of thick washers between the frame and the cross beam where the frame secures (5 points from memory?). By adding/removing the washers you can get the frame to angle in/out. Mind you it will probably drive you mad trying to get it just right!!

 

Paul.

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Somewhere near then get the adjusting stick on it

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Thanks guys.

Paul it already drove me mad getting the door right. So I'm ready

Yeah I know what you mean. I replaced all the top hat plastic bushes and one of my doors has already dropped before I've even driven it!

 

I also had the frames welded where they always crack (at the back top of the door shell) and the passenger one cracked again within a few days of being back on the car. On my passenger door the glass doesn't follow the channel properly and at the top it jumps out of the felt channel.

 

Ho-hum :getmecoat:

Edited by Paul Coleman

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Sounds like you need to adjust your frame Paul.  :w00t:  The window follows its own channel - which is also adjustable..

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The problem is that in the past (long before I got the car) the glass has done this and now the felt channel has been squashed over and won't let the glass take the correct path.

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My drivers window does the same. I do not think the wear on the nylon wheels help much but have yet to change them.

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Yeah I know what you mean. I replaced all the top hat plastic bushes and one of my doors has already dropped before I've even driven it!

 

I also had the frames welded where they always crack (at the back top of the door shell) and the passenger one cracked again within a few days of being back on the car. On my passenger door the glass doesn't follow the channel properly and at the top it jumps out of the felt channel.

 

Ho-hum :getmecoat:

Same problem here. Took a great deal of care welding the frame and reinstalled using the same spacers but had to play around with spacers to get the frame to seal against the body of the car and rubber strip on the door. It never sealed on the body of the car since I had it so I think someone else has had a go before.

After many hours searching the internet as well as trial and error there doesn't seem to be an answer.

You have to remove the entire frame off the anti intrusion bar to change 1 spacer each time.

How can we get the guy that assembled these in the factory to join this forum ?

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Spacers....you could try cutting slots in them so you don't have to dismantle completely every time you add or remove one...slot to the centre hole, then they should slide in and out....

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Spacers....you could try cutting slots in them so you don't have to dismantle completely every time you add or remove one...slot to the centre hole, then they should slide in and out....

Good call.

I have the frame now at the point that it seals everywhere but the window is very hard to move, even with most of the nuts loose on the frame and the guide rail. I tried silicon spray in the channel but it didn't make any difference. The rear top corner of the window still wants to locate outside the frame at the raised position. The frame used to sit 1/2" away from the body before I started working on it so the window fitted but there was a clear path for rain to go into the car.

I'm sure if I do anything with the spacers the frame won't seal on the body or the window on the rubber strip on the door, as it took quite a long time to get it to this point.

There must be a standard operating procedure when assembling these things or at least some sort of jig they would have used.

 

Quoted from the Manual :

Fit drop glass into frame and refit door window frame into door.

Adjust carriage plate to obtain smooth rise and fall of the drop glass before installing window motor.

 

Not much information but might be of help to someone. ( nothing about how many spacers to use anywhere )

I did measure for parrallel between the frame and the guide rail. Can't think of anything else to check.

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Mine don't quite seal at the top...but I got so fed up with the adjustment that I decided to live with it!! Only regret the decision when the rain seeps in....

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Have any of your guys considered putting a second door seal in the little channel along the top of the window frame. I think the newer Esprit's had one. I read somewhere that someone did and it improved the weather seal and cut the road noise a bit. I know my seals leak so I'll probably be trying that as a quick fix instead of taking the doors apart since you guys have convinced me that it oh so fun.

 

Brian M.

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Good discussion, I'm experiencing the same issues. I think the manual might have a point in process, fit the frame to make a good seal, then adjust carriage rail, then fit motor. I've never disconnected the motor. I'll give it go this weekend and post results. Iain :)

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My S2 has a second strip running attached to the window frame along the top.

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Brian

 

The Stevens cars had this strip but I've seen a number of G cars with it added by the owner.  Dont know about any weather improvements but have been told helps wind noise a lot.

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I've fitted the strip to my 1986 S3.

 

I wouldn't go so far as to say that it materially reduces wind noise but it helps a bit. Don't think it makes any difference re weather but it does make the door frame look 'finished'.

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I was going to inform everyone about the number of shims to get the door frame right from looking at the passenger side door which hasn't been dissassembled ( as far as I know ).

 

They used 3 spacers on the top bolts and 1 at the bottom ones whith the exception of the rear bottom one which has 4.

 

However I tried using this combination on the drivers door and ended up with a 10mm gap between the window and the rubber strip at the top of the door, so there doesn't seem to be a standard. ( unless there is a different standard between drivers and passengers side doors ).

 

It could be possibly fixed by adjusting the door shell but I don't want to go there as the door fits the car really well.

 

I may have to go back to having a 12mm gap at the top of the frame and use a second seal as suggested by Brian above.

Anyone else having any luck ?

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Made a bit of progress last week.

As I said before I had to weld the frame where it had cracked at the top of the door ( common problem )

Although I was careful to get the weld right I didn't realise the frame was also bent a bit between the bolts at the top of the door and the bottom mount. This is on the rear part of the frame.

The window is being forced through a different arc to it's own curve, which is making it jam in the track.

I tried correcting the arc in the track using 3 blocks of wood in a wood vise ( like a break press ) but went slightly too far, but I can see what is happening now and am confident it will be fixed with a couple more times taking the frame out and tweaking it.

 

This problem could happen without the frame cracking or being welded, just from people opening the door using the frame instead of the door handle and may not be obvious.

You need to look at the bottom rear of the window glass in the track and see if it's following the same radius or if the window is more or less curved than the track, especially when the window is down about 3 inches.

 

Hope to have it fixed next weekend.

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Had the frame in and out of the car 9 or 10 times and it is probably as good as it's going to get.

If I can get a bit more power out of the motor it will be reliable.

I used a piece of 3mm PVC plastic sheet to create a curve that followed the front section of the frame and matched the back of the frame to it. The bach of the frame was also twisted a bit from all the bending which I was somehow able to twist back with a shifter and vise without breaking the weld.

The design is over constrained with both parts of the frame and the guide rail all having to be perfect.

The winder mechanism has a mechanical disadvantage normally seen on a hydraulic cylinder.

The curved plastic sheet is the only way I could think of to be able to see everything was lined up.

 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1159528434064469&set=pcb.1159530304064282&type=1&theater

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anyone got a pic of the added seal on the door side?

cheers,

simon

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