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Bloody hell! They move faster than mine.

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:D  The windows may be faster. I doubt my car is faster then yours.

 

Anyway. We could organize a competition. Who's windows have the fastest up/down crono.

Mine are under 5 sec :thumbup:

It is something else as the fastest time 0 to 60mph.

 

Geert

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I did a similar modification on the gold Excel a couple of years ago, it is shocking just what a difference it makes.

Edit: Should have said, the only issue I encountered afterwards was water leaking past the window seal and rusting the terminals on one of the relays, so plastic bag with cable ties to secure may be a good idea also (as well as pointing the wires such that water doesn't run to the relays).

Edited by andydclements

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Is that one relay for up and one for down?

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exactly

 

I cut the blue yelow wire and the black blue wire at the window motor.

 

The blue yelow wire that comes from the switch is soldered to the relais coil, the other side that goes to the window motor is soldered to the relais contact

The other side of the relais coil gets a black earthwire

The other side of the relais contact gets the new permanent 12V wire from the fusebox.

 

And same for the black blue wire.

Edited by gvy

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Wow My drivers side has really been struggling getting it up! Will need a bit of TLC I think.

 

Thanks for the great info.

 

Buddsy

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Great info Geert. Thanks! 

 

I will be adding it to my to-do list!

 

Pete

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You had an easier situation that me, the motors on my Excel have two wires, one acts as earth for up with the other as positive, but are reversed for down, so I had to use change-over relays and make it such that if one relay stuck on it didn't cause a short-circuit.

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Indeed Andy.

That is a more difficult situation

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The original circuit should have had relays on it from the beginning, as well as the headlamps too. Replacing just one burned out window switch will cost you more than adding a full set of relays!  The difference in lift speed is surprising. Nice job Geert !

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Jon,

 

I have relais in the circuit of the headlamps too.

If you change lamps for a better set (that may take more amps) sooner or later you burn the contacts of the switches or the steering columstick if you don't.

 

Another circuit that benefits from an additional relais (12V30amps) is the circuit to the starter solenoid.

Whenever you turn the ignition key, the current to the starter solenoid flows through the ignition key switch contacts.

I know for a fact that with my other oldie , a 1970 opel GT, that may result in burnt contacts and often seen in these cars is an added start push button to resolve that if it happened.

 

But with one simple relais that costs 4€,you can prevent it.

In the engine compartment in the back, I have cut the red-white wire to the starter solenoid and in the same way as with the windows, I installed a relais. The only current that flows through the ignition key contacts now is the little relaiscoilcurrent.

 

Geert

Edited by gvy
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good useful information. Thanks for the post.

 

 

 

 

Richard

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That's a mod I'd never have thought of, I'd have been cleaning terminals & greasing joints etc 'till the cows came home trying to speed them up.  :wallbash:

 

Well done, Geert. :thumbsup:

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Excellent info, thanks for sharing, bookmarked! This is now on my to do list :).

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wow... that's impressive!

So here is a thought, my windscreen motor struggles to get the blade across the screen when its dry.

I am guessing that adding a relay on the power to the windscreen motor would have the same effect.... hopefully?

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This is a very good point on the wiper - do you think it could improve that to? mine is pretty comical...

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I've been thinking, rather than running a new wire from the fusebox for the 12V, is it feasible to just take a 12V feed/tap from the window switch wire, before the actual contacts? The motors are already fused and the load of a small relay coil shouldn't add that much to window motor circuit?

 

A bit like this:

 

window_relays_01.jpg

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In theory, yes that would work and take the load away from the switches, but routing the new +Ve wire through the door shells is probably the hardest part.  If you have a spare (or under-utilised) connection on the fusebox that's a shorter run.  

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In the Giugiaro S1, S2,S and turboesprits, the windowswitches are located in the central console between the seats.

It is better and easier to pull a wire to the doors from the fusebox. The hard part of my fix , is getting an extra wire in the doors anyway.

By taking the 12V from the fusebox, you make sure the current for the motors is not going through the keycontactswitch also.

 

Now on a later Stevens Esprit, the windowswitches are in the doors ? yes? , so maybe your circuit , with the 12V from the switches, is worth trying. That way You dont have to run an extra wire to the doors.

But the windowmotors will not benefit from a solid direct 12V wire straight from the fusebox, so I can not predict , things will get any better.

 

Geert

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Another thing worth doing is running a separate/new ground wire either from the battery=>chassis connection directly out to the window motors. Any voltage drop under load, either from a poor ground or from a poor +Ve feed, will result in sluggish motors. 

 

Oh, and by the way, bag up or otherwise seal the new relays in the door shells - the window seals on the quarter light are notoriously poor and leak water - right onto your relays. They rust out quickly - I know because thats what happened to the first set I fitted !

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On my S4, the window switches are in the centre console. I would need to check the wiring diagram for how mine are set up. Did the window switches ever move out to the doors?

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