Ciridean 1 Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Hi Guys. Does anyone have pics or directions on the best way to remove the carbs on an 85 Esprit T? I am ordering the Des Hammill book as suggested and have help with the rebuild, but am on my own with regards to the removal. Symptoms are: the car will not go over 3000 rpm, 2500 up a steep hill or 40000 down hill with less load of course. The car revs in neutral to red line but sticks under load. I was told it is likely a fuel problem, as I drove it very little last year. One can push it through the 3K limit but then your next shift will be less, like 2500 or less for example, and the car will buck and stumble like it has unburned fuel to contend with. Also has anyone noticed that owning a Lotus leads to mechanically inclined friendship attrition, as in they are dropping like flies :-O Many thanks in advance. Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gold FFM Barrykearley 6,446 Posted March 28, 2015 Gold FFM Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Have you changed the filters? Blown the fuel lines through ? First two I'd try. Then as a real quick try - pour some redex cleaner through the carbs whilst gently keeping the revs up. Itll smoke like hell as it burns - but does unstick carbs very effectively Quick and easy fix for my old classic carb based cars that tended to sit in the winter - this newer unleaded fuel seems to gum up very easily in a stored vehicle. Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
Buddsy 1,576 Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Sounds like it could be a worn out fuel pump. Mine did seemed to be working on my 85 turbo but the fuel has to be raised a fair way and as they wear out over time they have enough power to raise enough fuel to get going but our cars need quite a high flow rate especially under load. Mine died and wouldnt quite raise enough fuel. Good news is it is a fairly easy job to change, pretty cheap (make sure you get the right one) and even if it isnt that it is something I would say change before starting to take the carbs apart. Buddsy Quote "Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777 Link to post Share on other sites
Gold FFM Barrykearley 6,446 Posted March 28, 2015 Gold FFM Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Agree buddsy - carb strip down always the last try!! Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
molemot 521 Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Check the float heights.... Quote Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky 2,721 Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Assume ignition timing is OK? Quote British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland. And Sweden. Link to post Share on other sites
simon a-b 19 Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 just to join in... carb balance? When I had mine off the other day I re-bent the tab between the two carbs, and took it for a test drive completely out of balance (I did a really rudimentary balance without the car running, which was useless). Would not pull over 3000rpm on full throttle, otherwise ran fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
910Esprit 495 Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) Nothing special about removal - Can't really think of any useful tips! The 10mm bracketry and trumpets is probably the fiddliest so useful array of spanners and 1/4 drive sockets can be useful. However entirely agree with others, dont start by rebuilding the carbs. You can safely remove the large top cover from each carb in situ to check if they are clean (if so, suspect rebuild wont help). Also remove and blow clear the 4 jets that sit under each of the small top covers As a simple check, disconnect a fuel pipe to the carb and check it can fil a jam jar or similar fairly quickly. For serious diagnosis a pressure gauge and Tee piece is useful as you can check the dynamic pressure under load - which is where your problem seems to be If the car has been standng or rebuilt from a box of parts, another possibility is rust/scale blocking outlets in tanks. Edited March 29, 2015 by 910Esprit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ciridean 1 Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Wow! Thanks guys for all the fast replies. I am going to try them all one by one before the removal. Buddsy can you believe I made it all the way to Norwich England from Phoenix, AZ. USA in November 14, and did not have time to look you up due to short trip. The next time I am there I have to bring you something from the states for all the times you have helped me on this site. Cheers to all, off to try, thx, Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iainskea 29 Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 I'd be checking the fuel pump as the symptoms sound familiar. A tip to removing the pump is drain the tanks using the pump by disconnecting the fuel line at the filter. It beats getting fuel all over yourself under the car with buckets etc (did this once before told this obvious tip) Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ciridean 1 Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Barry: RE: The reddix carb cleaner. Would any carb cleaner work, not sure we have that brand here in the U.S. that is liquid like that? Thx, Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gold FFM Barrykearley 6,446 Posted April 4, 2015 Gold FFM Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Yes - the carb cleaner is just to remove the gum that forms through standing. Carbs can and do get sticky quickly with the newer unleaded fuel - I don't know why - but a blast of cleaner usually improves almost immediately if this is the problem. There's a few brands in the uk - all seem to do just as good a job Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
Ciridean 1 Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 Buddsy: I pulled a Bosch fuel pump # 0580-464-008, is that what you used in your car? It is not cheap here $243.00 U. S. The parts X reference lists a Bosch 0580-254-967, and a AC Delco part, and a GM part considerably cheaper than the Bosch's, do you know if they work? Many thanks, Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Buddsy 1,576 Posted April 22, 2015 Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I bought a high power expensive one from a motorsport place. Looked really nice then realised the spec and it didnt have enough lifting power or flow. I then had to sell that one at a loss on ebay and bought the standard one for our cars form SJ. I thought it was cheaper as its now just under £100.00 but thats what I would go for. http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/index.php?mod=10 Buddsy 1 Quote "Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777 Link to post Share on other sites
Ciridean 1 Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Buddsy. Sounds about right, thanks. Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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