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TonyKL

Worth replacing the speakers in the V6S?

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I know a few of you have changed the speakers in the V6, does it make much difference?

I know the car sounds great and to be honest it's probably a winter project but wondered if it was worth looking into, and if so what size/spec speakers have people fitted.

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I know others have done it, but I'm not convinced that upgrading the sound system in an Exige is worthwhile. It's very noisy in there, even with a standard exhaust, so any sound system is always fighting against the mechanical noise. Worth doing in an Evora, but an Exige...?

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Worth doing in an Evora, but an Exige...?

 

Yeah, completely understand but I've heard that people can have bluetooth conversations which amazes me.

Find it hard enough to talk to my passenger at 69mph (but maybe that's because I'm bad at smalltalk).

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Tony, I have read posts where simply creating a "chamber" behind the oem speakers with a dampening material (eg. Dynamat) making then in fact an enclosed rather than free air system does gave a dramatic positive impact on sound Q. (Which is perfectly normal)

Is in my to-do list, but I never use the radio so that will probably never happen.

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I'm very happy with my changes - I fitted infinity kappas plus hand made "enclosures" constructed from dynamat and theosophist is much much better. As a second upgrade I put in an alpine bluetooth head unit and have had a phone conversation at motorway speeds with no problem. I have a roadster with premium pack, so the background noise is probably a bit lower than a coupe without.

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Hi. The problem with Hifi at the Elise/Exige is the following:

 

1. The speakers are very very small (10cm/13cm) so they have nearly no bass.

2. Although it's an Alpine system it's the cheapest available head unit and speaker system from Alpine at all.

 

The complete stock Alpine audio system is garbage.

 

I just did the following with my Exige S:

 

- replaced the head unit (mainly to have Bluetooth Audio streaming) with an excellent Kenwood KDC-BT73DAB

- replaced all speakers with german Mac-Audio Performance X 10.2 and 13.2 speakers

- installed a Pioneer active Subwoofer behind the footrest (TS-WX120A)

 

It is worth. And it streams all the music from my iPhone with USB or Bluetooth including Siri, Navigation and so on. Probably works with Android too. Overall costs: around 420,- €. 

 

The biggest improvement comes from the subwoofer, doing all the bass small speakers can't do. Only replacing the head unit or the speakers (with the same small size) doesn't help much. No matter how much you pay for the speakers. It sounds a little bit better, but still not good.

So even if you only fit the subwoofer the stock Alpine sounds much better.

 

If you don't want a subwoofer you must try to fit larger 13 &16 cm speakers with some bass.

 

 

some pics:

 

img13275b63qakhim.jpg

 

pmngbi5p.jpg
 

 

q2gwzygo.jpg
 

5qyo23ld.jpg

Edited by Blue1000

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Welcome to TLF Peter. :welcome:

 

Duck over to the Introductions section and say hi in there as well since you're new. :)

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I agree with Peter regarding the subwoofer, but I went about it in a slightly different manner. I upgraded the head unit to a new alpine unit with bluetooth (roadster with premium pack also) and then added a woofer behind the driver and passenger seats in the space where the useless netting is.

 

It's a bit hard to see in the photos, but it fits perfectly out of the way and makes a huge difference in sound quality. Definately worthwhile in my opinion.

 

2yoyjb8.jpg

 

6f47zq.jpg

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That's another perfect place for a subwoofer ;) but I somtimes store my soft top there so I've choosen the passenger footrest

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That's another perfect place for a subwoofer ;) but I somtimes store my soft top there so I've choosen the passenger footrest

 

Surprises me that the soft top fits there? (oh and thanks for the input!)

Not sure I want to go down the sub route.

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I also wasn't sure about adding a subwoofer (effort related, rather than scepticism about improvement!). However, I've just bitten the bullet and installed the same pioneer unit that Peter (Blue1000) has fitted and I'm very pleased with the result - a very noticeable difference and together with the other changes (all but the wires!), it sounds very good to my inexpert ears.

It took a couple of brave pills to drill through the car, as I wanted to feed the power directly from the battery terminals in the front compartment, but a relatively easy job as it turned out.

phil.

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I also wasn't sure about adding a subwoofer (effort related, rather than scepticism about improvement!). However, I've just bitten the bullet and installed the same pioneer unit that Peter (Blue1000) has fitted and I'm very pleased with the result - a very noticeable difference and together with the other changes (all but the wires!), it sounds very good to my inexpert ears.

It took a couple of brave pills to drill through the car, as I wanted to feed the power directly from the battery terminals in the front compartment, but a relatively easy job as it turned out.

phil.

Actually looking to do the same, decided to go for full pioneer set up with the same sub and was going to ask where you guys had wired it in, took the feed from the terminal under the front inspection hatch? Do you happen to have any pictures of where you ran the cable through?

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I didn't take any at the time, but will do - probably not going to be until the weekend now - hope that's OK?

If you look in the passenger footwell, there is a black plastic cover about 20x10cm through which the main loom goes upwards into the front compartment. I made a small hole in that, a little to the left and behind, if looking at the car back towards the front. There is a plastic cover over the wiper motor under the cover with two screws holding it in. If you remove that, you can see the top of the plastic cover and the loom coming through.

To route the cables to the HU, there is a very handy channel across the top of the dash from the side channel through to the head unit. There is plenty of room to feed the cables between sill cover and side trim. In the coins tray there are two screws to remover the large cover, which gives access to feed the cables up and through to the HU.

I needed to remove the HU mounting sleeve to get the cables through, but other than that very easy.

It's worth noting that I cut some of the cables to aid fitting, then rejoined, which is also an opportunity to do away with the many metres of extraneous cables!!

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Route the subwoofer cable to your head unit like written above and connect it there: RCA plug, ignition positive and ground.  Small subs don't need to be connected to battery. 

Edited by Blue1000

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Route the subwoofer cable to your head unit like written above and connect it there: RCA plug, ignition positive and ground.  Small subs don't need to be connected to battery.

You're probably right in practice, Peter, but even this small sub states it should be connected to a supply capable of a constant 10amps, so I erred on the side of caution and wired separately.

Phil.

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As promised, here are some pictures of how I routed the cables:

 

The pictures show (1) the cover I drilled through to get the power into the front compartment. The yellow and black cables are the sub power cables.

 

post-17306-0-31264700-1438450918.jpg

 

(2) the cover to remove in the front compartment to see where the cables emerge from the cover,

 

post-17306-0-74128700-1438450927.jpg

 

(3) the route for the cables to HU under the sill cover - plenty of room there to feed through phono cables / fuse holder etc

 

post-17306-0-08160800-1438450938.jpg

 

4) the route to take the cables. If you remove the cover on the side trim, it's really obvious how to route the cables through the channel. You could also pass the power feed here, should you choose to take from the back of the HU, as Blue1000 did.

 

post-17306-0-41022200-1438450950.jpg

 

You need to remove the HU to get the other end (and plug it all in, of course!).

 

Hope this helps,

Phil.

 

Edited by PhilS
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Looks like I need some new front speakers, I've blown mine.

 

One is crackling the other is dead.  I guess that's what happens when trying to listen to music at 150 with the roof off :D  

 

I'm just after some straight replacements, @blue1000 are those MAC's drop in replacements ?

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As promised, here are some pictures of how I routed the cables:

 

The pictures show (1) the cover I drilled through to get the power into the front compartment. The yellow and black cables are the sub power cables.

 

attachicon.gifRoute to Power.jpg

 

(2) the cover to remove in the front compartment to see where the cables emerge from the cover,

 

attachicon.gifFront Compartment.jpg

 

(3) the route for the cables to HU under the sill cover - plenty of room there to feed through phono cables / fuse holder etc

 

attachicon.gifRoute to HU.jpg

 

4) the route to take the cables. If you remove the cover on the side trim, it's really obvious how to route the cables through the channel. You could also pass the power feed here, should you choose to take from the back of the HU, as Blue1000 did.

 

attachicon.gifChannel.jpg

 

You need to remove the HU to get the other end (and plug it all in, of course!).

 

Hope this helps,

Phil.

Thanks Phil!

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A pleasure. Not sure where you're based, but if you're local (ish) to Surrey / Kent and would appreciate some moral support if you have a go, then let me know.

Phil.

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I have just sold my V6 LF1 and removed the DAB Alpine with Bluetooth I put in it along with Pioneer Sub TS-WX120A as mentioned above.

 

The Alpine is the CDE-136BT and was removed professionally by B&C. I therefore have all the cables, attaching velcro strips and DAB ariel plus the units instructions and original boxes etc. both units can be re fitted really easily. The sub was fitted in the passenger footwell which was perfect place for it.

 

Car was only bought quite recently so the units are virtually brand new.

 

Will sell for a good price, PM me of interest.

 

Cheers

Simon

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So using Phil's guide above fitted the same sub into my car tonight however....it seems that mine doesn't have the remote output wire on the stereo harness (standard alpine head unit and wires). Did anyone else have similar issue?

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I'm really interested in upgrading the speakers in my car so that they don't rattle and sound a bit better. I appreciate that the Exige isn't a car suited for high end audio due to the general road noise, but the rattling speaker I currently have is a little irritating. 

 

I'm a little nervous about going down the sub-woofer route. This is because years ago, when I had a Series 2 Elise, I had a thin sub woofer system fitted behind the drivers seat where the netting is, along with a small amp in the boot. This achieved two things mainly which were:

 

1.) Terrible vibrations from the plastic shaking around where the sub was mounted.

2.) Horrible weight shift in the balance of the car. 

 

Now to be fair, I think the sub that was fitted was too large and the place that did it hadn't really fitted it to an Elise type car before. All I wanted was a little bit extra, not a massive boom box! Sufficed to say that I took it back for a full refund and still lost a bit of money on the whole debacle. 

 

With the Exige, I'd like to keep it simple and fit some better quality speakers that sound better and don't distort. With my new exhaust, the car is louder now anyway (with the valve open) so I know what I'm working with. However I'd like better power and clarity from my speakers.

 

Can anyone recommend some replacement speakers that will meet the above criteria and fit without having to modify anything?

 

Thanks :)

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Chris I took the car to a local ICE installer and asked this question.

 

After looking at the ones fitted to the car he said he wouldn't bother, as they are already fairly competent units from the factory. So in the end I just walked out with a better head unit, the stock one is lowest of the low in Alpines range. This had the benefit I could tune the EQ and get rid of some resonance, so it did improve things.

 

On my old S2 Exige I used some dynomat behind the speakers to form a bit of an enclosure, this really helped, but it had the old style non air bag dash, so was quite easy to do.

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If anyone has actually replaced the factory fitted speakers, would you be willing to provide a brief guide/write up on here to help us consider the same.

I'm unimpressed with head unit and speakers (I'm getting distortion at medium volumes) - so will start to upgrade but seems logical to start with speakers - I have some new Hertz speakers I'd like to try in mine.

Thanks

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Quite old topic but I have installed myself last week end a new head unit (I had the old alpine on the 350, don't ask why) with bluetooth (welcome to a new century) and added a subwoofer (focal) powered directly by the heat unit. The idea is to remove the subwoofer for trackdays... 

 

 

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