Bloke79 11 Report post Posted March 30, 2015 Hi Guys, Am doing a bit more track work in the Exige at the moment, and by the look of it, I need to put a bit more camber into the car to use the tyres better. Elise Parts do a steering arm kit with camber adjustments and just wondering whether anyone had used this and whether they'd had any sort of success? http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/72/622/lightweight-steering-arms/ Would appreciate any thoughts? I've got 1.5deg neg camber on the fronts with all the shims out, so other ideas if this doesn't work would also be appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramjet 727 Report post Posted March 30, 2015 Is it within Lotus spec or are you looking to change from a performance or 'tyre longevity' point of view? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bloke79 11 Report post Posted March 31, 2015 Hi Michael, Yeah - it's definitely within Lotus spec, however, given I'm only using part of the tyre, I'm guessing that more camber will help front corner grip. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramjet 727 Report post Posted March 31, 2015 Do you have room to move inside the Lotus specs? You want to go from -1.5deg to ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bloke79 11 Report post Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Nahh - 1.5deg is maxxed out both sides I believe, there's no further adjustment within the factory parts. Oh - as for max adjustment - I'm not sure... But would think 2.5-3 would be perfect. Edited March 31, 2015 by Bloke79 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramjet 727 Report post Posted March 31, 2015 My only concern is that you will move to your tyre wear goal at the expense of what Lotus (arguably the best suspension and steering guys) have set the V6 up to? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bloke79 11 Report post Posted March 31, 2015 I take your point, however, every OEM's have to take into account tyre longevity at the consequence of outright performance, everything is a compromise because people expect their tyres to last more than a few weekends. The other effect of lots of camber is the car will tramline, and giving a customer a car with 3deg negative camber will mean they're likely to go into a ditch if they don't have both hands on the wheel at all times. As I don't care about my tyres lasting 30k kms (I'd rather outright grip), these things aren't a concern Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack 291 Report post Posted March 31, 2015 Matt, did you remove the abs sensor bracket? If not, you will be able to get another .25 degree of negative. With more sticky tires than the Corsas, you definitely need more negative front and rear. I'm able to get to ~2.5 negative up front with no shims and - 2.6/7 in the rear with eccentric camplate/pivot bolt maxed out. More negative in front will require milling the hub in my case. The rear will require a little more work but supposedly there is a way to do it by relocating the guide plate for the eccentric. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bloke79 11 Report post Posted April 9, 2015 Thanks for the reply Jack. Yep - removed the ABS sensor bracket - to your point, gave the car another .25 degree. I'll have a bit more of a look (by me, I mean my suspension guy) at the alignment settings and see what else I can get. Appreciate the feedback! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted June 15, 2015 More negative in front will require milling the hub in my case. Come back to your elder posting. I am just considering in machining the hub. Could you give me an idea how much machining is required to move up to 2.5 deg camber? Thanks a lot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack 291 Report post Posted June 15, 2015 Come back to your elder posting. I am just considering in machining the hub. Could you give me an idea how much machining is required to move up to 2.5 deg camber? Thanks a lot. 1mm for each .25 degree of additional camber that you require over and above what you can get by taking out all shims (including the ABS bracket). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted June 15, 2015 1mm for each .25 degree of additional camber that you require over and above what you can get by taking out all shims (including the ABS bracket). Thank you Jack. Then I will go for that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted June 16, 2015 Just ordered this: http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/71/474/reduced-bump-steering-arm-kit/ This should solve my front camber trouble. 2.6/7 in the rear with eccentric camplate/pivot bolt maxed out. Jack, could you tell a bit more to this, I do not understand the meaning by that. Thanks, Frank Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alias23 837 Report post Posted July 16, 2015 Out of interest what toe settings are you guys running with such high camber? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted July 17, 2015 Zero in front, maybe with tend to toe out. Rear nearly 0:12 in total (means 5-6 r/l ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alias23 837 Report post Posted July 17, 2015 Zero in front, maybe with tend to toe out. Rear nearly 0:12 in total (means 5-6 r/l ) Interesting... Im currently running 0.5 out (front) and 1.5 in (rear) which is some big differance to your current setup... Wondering how this actually changes the cars behaviour... Think I need to 'swot' up a little on the whole geo game! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted July 17, 2015 Interesting... Im currently running 0.5 out (front) and 1.5 in (rear) which is some big differance to your current setup... Wondering how this actually changes the cars behaviour... Think I need to 'swot' up a little on the whole geo game! Do we speak about the same? I mentioned arc minute. What does 0,5 and 1,5 mean to me? Sorry, maybe some translation misunderstanding. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg² 15 Report post Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) Do we speak about the same? I mentioned arc minute. What does 0,5 and 1,5 mean to me? Sorry, maybe some translation misunderstanding. I think he means millimeters 0.5mm / 1.5mm (Same values as for Cup R cars) Edited September 14, 2015 by Greg² Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted September 18, 2015 Just installed a new bump steer kit and adjusted it to 2:20. On Monday I will return the car and than I am awaiting Spa at october, 8th.TrofeoR on front are going to be mounted as well. New springs and new shock adjustment is finished.I can't wait to test the new setup on track. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted September 21, 2015 Well, just returned my car and have a first result. A more stiff rear suspension works (of course) excellent against understeer.With the new setup and modified damper/springs, the (for me) very strong understeer is eleminated. With this setup I am burning to go to Spa next month.Keep you updated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Freejack 112 Report post Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Did my trackday in Spa and I am quiet happy. Unfortunately I had a very bad day, cause I felt sea sick all the day. So I was unable to drive as scheduled.The weather was quiet fine, slippery and wet in the morning, but after one hour is was getting dry and during that period I switched over to the passenger seat, because my daughter, 23y., had their debut as a driver on track. Due to the fact, that I was looking to the mirrows, so that she could pay attention a 100% to the track, I was getting sea sick and this feeling was present the whole day.The only result I now can tell: With the new camber setting, the understeer is gone. The new suspension is working properly and at the limit, there is a wide range at the limit, which is really fine for my daughter to start learning track driving.It was my second trackday in Spa and my daughter told me later, that she stopped me once with a 2:55 incl. passenger. Next time I will drive with a jet helmet, hoping that this will keep me away from getting sea sick. Edited October 10, 2015 by Freejack Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg² 15 Report post Posted October 31, 2015 On 31 mars 2015 22:53:34, Jack said: I'm able to get to ~2.5 negative up front with no shims and - 2.6/7 in the rear with eccentric camplate/pivot bolt maxed out. The rear will require a little more work but supposedly there is a way to do it by relocating the guide plate for the eccentric. Hi Jack, Could you explain this point? some pictures, DIY,... would be greatly appreciated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack 291 Report post Posted November 2, 2015 Greg, which point exactly and I will give it a try? I don't have any photos of the work being done -- I had my race shop make the changes, but I may be able to find illustrations in the V6 shop manual for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg² 15 Report post Posted November 2, 2015 On 1 April 2015 7:53:34 am, Jack said: ...and - 2.6/7 in the rear with eccentric camplate/pivot bolt maxed out. The rear will require a little more work but supposedly there is a way to do it by relocating the guide plate for the eccentric. I would really appreciate some explantion on the way you get more camber at the rear "by relocating the guide plate for the eccentric" With standard settings, I can only have 2.2° of camber at the rear... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jack 291 Report post Posted November 3, 2015 I may not have been clear in my very first post, so let me try again. My CupR originally came from the factory with ~ 2.25 degrees negative camber in the rear. I had the shop "max out" my rear camber by moving the eccentric/pivot bolt as far as possible. This got me to ~ 2.6/2.7 degrees negative. To get more, the shop said they would have to re-locate the guide plate and they thought that it would be possible..... BUT, I have not had them attempt to do it. So, I have no first-hand knowledge as to whether relocating the guide is feasible. I gather it would require substantial work, welding and the like. Unless the CupR rear suspension is different (I don't believe it is) than on the other V6 Exiges, I'm surprised that you can't get more than 2.2 degrees by maxing out the eccentric camplate/ bolt. If I recall correctly, it does require some force and two people were doing the job -- one tech was pushing the lower wishbone/lower portion of the wheel with quite a bit of force and holding it in position while another tech was tightening the pivot bolt. The car was on an alignment rack with the tire/wheel on slip plates with the wishbones in their proper ride height, i.e., the car was not jacked up. Hope this makes sense. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
