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Additional Camber on the Exige V6


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Saturday I had a closer look at it and decided to get a 0.5 mm shim before having a go at it. On the left side there is the abs bracket and a 1.5 mm shim, so if I exchange the latter for a 0.5 mm shim I can retain the abs bracket on the left side. On the right side there is only the (1.0 mm) abs bracket which I will remove then.

So thanks a lot for all information which encourage me to go for it!

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  • 4 years later...

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I know this is quite old topic, but still... I need your help 🙂

Want to get more camber on the Exige from the day one I got it. Notice that the front is not such a problem, but bought zero bum steer kit anyway (increases camber as well). Can't do much on a rear. Moved eccentric bolt as far as possible. So we should get 2.5-2.6°, but we only get 1.7°. Took a picture of the eccentric bolt. Can anyone tell me if this is the max setting?

image.png.54f217d2fecdb33ca8fec2d23b0da9c4.png

My alignment shop said it's maxed. I would also say that it's maxed. Is there any other trick to increase it, without relocating the guide plate and without buying the adjustable upper arms?

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Have you removed ABS bracket as well? I ordered front bum steer kit, it also increases front camber. It's an alternative to milling front upright, but it's geometry should be better fitted for lowered setting.

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I have a 390FE on stock pads atm, 225 front tyres running -ve 3 camber at the front , on nankang ar1 and I dun have issues with ABS on road or track so not sure why you seem to be having issues unless you are driving it in the safe mode.  

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I have Ferodo Racing DS3.12 and 225 Yokohama A052 on the front axle. Camber is set to -2.3°. Braking is very intense. No issues with the ABS. Sure there are some TC issues when in TOUR mode, because TC is not calibrated for the higher level of grip. It might be that your tyres are the problem.

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On 16/06/2022 at 20:09, Toqcars said:

Have you removed ABS bracket as well? I ordered front bum steer kit, it also increases front camber. It's an alternative to milling front upright, but it's geometry should be better fitted for lowered setting.

Is this the bump steer kit you have?: https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/steering-br-suspension-1/v6-exige-reduced-bump-steer-kit-1/

Is it good? or do you think you may want even more camber in the future?

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, that's the kit I have. It is good, totally worth it. Car is very well balanced with 2.3° at front and 3.0° at the rear axle. No need for additional camber for now. At least for the semi-slicks. I might answer different for the slicks, but haven't tried it yet. Car is so stable and balanced (even on a bumpy road and under heavy braking) that I am considering changing the anti-roll bar setting to hard. But you need to work in it... for sure not a GT car now 🙂

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@tactical lizardAnother option for the rear is to change out the plate on the rear to allow the eccentric bolt to produce more camber. By doing this, you can get to the -3 degrees that you are after. You can fabricate a new plate with different left and right sides which will move the location of the bolt. Just drill out the pop-rivets and create a new plate out of some similar metal.

Later,
Eldon

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I'm not sure that will affect all cars equally. As I said in the other thread, the factory standard setting for the rear is over 2 degrees, with up to 2 and a quarter degrees within tolerances. 

I run 2 and a quarter degrees and have no issues with rubbing. 

I'm quite interested in how close I am though after these conversations, so I might do and an inspection when I get home and see how much clearance I've actually got. 

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My Cup 430 FE is rather new so did not go to the alignment shop yet, but I'll report once done.
Rather interested though to know what makes the difference, if there's a difference...

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30 minutes ago, Paul_D said:

I run 2 and a quarter degrees and have no issues with rubbing. 

I'm quite interested in how close I am though after these conversations, so I might do and an inspection when I get home and see how much clearance I've actually got. 

I am really curios how much clearance do you have. However, it’s really hard to see/measure, event when the car is on an alignment lift. Will try to measure on a friend’s Exige, who hasn’t changed the arms and has maxed out the camber to 1.75 deg. But it will take a while…

 

@Martrack from statics point of view, you should be fine. Looks like some minority of cars struggle with this issue. But even if you can’t fit, you can always add an additional spacer for the perfect fit. I added additional 5 to 6 mm (than is 8 to 9 mm with the OEM spacer). 
 

 

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19 hours ago, Toqcars said:

Bought the adjustable upper arms. Theoretically you could get up to 6° with it. 😃

6 might be a bit much 😎.  Where did you get these from?, I have found some here: https://www.dna-racing.it/en/lotus-exige-v6-components/1036-dna-racing-rear-upper-suspension-arms-kit.html the pricing is quite spicy, although they do look good kit.

 

13 hours ago, EldonZ said:

@tactical lizardAnother option for the rear is to change out the plate on the rear to allow the eccentric bolt to produce more camber. By doing this, you can get to the -3 degrees that you are after. You can fabricate a new plate with different left and right sides which will move the location of the bolt. Just drill out the pop-rivets and create a new plate out of some similar metal.

Later,
Eldon

I was wondering about this, would be a lot cheaper to get some new plates laser cut. the only thing is how much room is there on the chassis hole behind the plate? it looks like it is elongated but is it big enough to allow 3 degrees?

614962725_30_01(2).jpg.542fa45c0277fbe20a5211ed09bbe44c.jpg

Thanks

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Yes, there is enough room. One of the race shops here in the US was modifying the Evoras and V6 Cups to get more camber via this method. They were getting 3 degrees without a problem.

Later,
Eldon

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@Toqcars

I'm afraid I think I must be misunderstanding exactly what you're saying. I've just taken a photograph through the spokes of the wheel showing the rear damper/spring assembly and the wheel rim next to it.

The wheel on mine is nowhere close to the main spring or helper spring at all, and as far as I can tell be feeling around, I've probably got another 20mm of clearance before the wheel would hit anything. Even if I adjusted the locking rings right up to the top, it doesn't look like anything would contact.

Rear-Wheel.jpg

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18 hours ago, Martrack said:

What about ordering standard / original Lotus plates, and enlarging their own hole thanks to CAD / numerical control drilling  machine ?

Yes that could be a possibility although it looks like the cam washer is snugly fit in the raised bits of the plate. I guess it is like that to help the alignment shop to set it precisely.

i will order some bits and see what can be done. Initial thoughts without seeing anything would be to stack two laser cut plates together, one for the main plate and the other plate to grasp the cam washer. 
For adjustment could just change out the second plate with different offset rivet holes. or If you could replace the rivets with bolts then you could elongate the rivet holes in the plates and provide some rough adjustment before using the cam bolt.

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