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Central Locking - Anyone else done it?

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I fitted one of those 'Hawk' central locking kits into my wife's Micra a couple of years ago and its been 100% reliable - Took me 1/2 day to fit, so I thought I'd put one in the Esprit - As you may expect it took me 10 times longer and several failed attempts and headscratching....   However its now all in with rifle bolt action and I'm pleased!

 

The first mounting of the door actuators was fitted using the flimsy universal brackets provided - Coupled  with a flexible fibreglass door shell, they were just too flimsy and distorted in use.   Back to the drawing board.

 

Version 2 below was fantastic - except that it fouled the doorcards! (measure twice cut once)

 

lock.jpg

 

Unfortunately, I was so peed off by now that I didn't bother with a photo of version 3, but its majestic and works perfectly.   Its now located at the other end of the door and the bracket is located at one end by sharing one of the screws that secures the inside door handle (V pleased with this idea, as the bracket/actuator also moves relative to the handle if you adjust iits position.

 

Other points to note:

 

Routing of the wires through the door into the A pillar at first seemed impossible.   However finally achieved by drilling the A pillar hole with a long masonry bit <bodge mode off>.   This took nerves of steel as I was drilling from the outside from the gap between the front of the door and the front wing  with the door open (only mms to spare).   Hole in door slightly easier.  Again from the outside with the door open I used a small dremel rasp to fashion a hole.   

 

Modern Wiring.....   Its an odd one this.  I hate crimped joints, so where I shortened the provided loom to the correct length for my setup, I soldered all joints, however the joints just repeadedly failed - seemed to break the copper inner (I've never had this problem before and must have soldered a 1000 similar joints over the years).   So my recommendation would either be to use crimps, or splice the wires midway along the runs, not at the actual connectors.  This is what I ended up doing.

 

Floppy rods....    The actuator rods used on an Esprit are very long and have little support, therefore they are quite happy to flex when pushed.  I found that the flex was reduced when the motor actuators were connected with a short rod rather than a long rod as typically illustrated in the instructions.   I also had to service/lubricate all the linkages etc to get a super quick 100% reliable action.

 

TBH - I wouldn't recommend this mod on an Esprit unless you are pretty confident with DIY - As it fought me all the way.  However if anyone plans to do similar and wants the 'blueprint' for my final brackets - let me know 

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Well done chap - they are great systems - rolling codes the lot

The also work as a cut in replacement for a broken central locking controller if you already have one...... And at about £20 massively cheaper than the real thing!!

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I've been thinking of doing this on my Esprit and also to bring back to life the central locking on my Excel, and had thought about the Hawk units, so this is a very timely piece. Yes please to the "blueprints".

 

Now you are going to have to get a photo of the  final installation :)

 

Chris

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If you already have the actuators in the excel you should only need to fit the control unit.

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Definitely going to do this.  Millions of kits out there on the bay...  Can't believe more people haven't done this mod (or am I just lazy?)

Does anyone have some more pictures of an install please?  (or the blueprints mentioned above)

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Hmmm - I'll  see if I can draw a picture, as I don't think I want to take the door cards off at the mo.     

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I have some kind of central loking fitted to my Esprit. Bloody thing likes to lock the car when the engine is running with me out of the car. I think its angry.

 

Buddsy

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Buddsy

if you already have it fitted - it's very simple just to change the control box and solve that issue. 

I can picture you doing a basil fawlty with a small tree!

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I think my problem is the passenger side I had problems getting the door handle mech to fit just right. The drivers side is just right but I think the passenger side somehow doesnt work quite right. I dont have a bleeper for the system so dont use it. I do have to leave a window open if the car is running. I have also got a spare key in my wallet for emerancies. Would be good to sort properly...Ill add it to the list!

 

Buddsy

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My wife thought Central Locking was being able to reach all the doorlocks from the driver's seat.

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I fitted a universal kit, took ages to do but I think it was worth it.  I also changed the door handles so that the passenger side doesn't have a keyhole (modernising vanity) and changed the door lock to take the mechanism from the donor car for my power steering column (vauxhall corsa) so there's one key only.  

I also fitted a button to lock/unlock on the panel just below the choke lever, and a hidden one in the boot area (paranoid).  

I think I spent more time stuffing around with the doors than anything else so far!  I also did the relay mod for the windows, and fitted puddle lights while I was there.  

I'm happy with it, I agree only for confident DIY folks with plenty of time, patience and a good stock of scrap bits (brackets, metal strapping, aluminium angle etc) to figure out an installation.  

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Here's the representation of my installation - not to scale...:P  

doorx.jpg

 

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thank you  !

On 23 January 2016 at 20:37, simon a-b said:

I fitted a universal kit, took ages to do but I think it was worth it.  I also changed the door handles so that the passenger side doesn't have a keyhole (modernising vanity) and changed the door lock to take the mechanism from the donor car for my power steering column (vauxhall corsa) so there's one key only.  

I also fitted a button to lock/unlock on the panel just below the choke lever, and a hidden one in the boot area (paranoid).  

I think I spent more time stuffing around with the doors than anything else so far!  I also did the relay mod for the windows, and fitted puddle lights while I was there.  

I'm happy with it, I agree only for confident DIY folks with plenty of time, patience and a good stock of scrap bits (brackets, metal strapping, aluminium angle etc) to figure out an installation.  

cool - thanks.  Do you have any photos?  (I am used to the Rennlist forum when I had my Porsche and everyone posts photos - seems to be a lack of photos on here ?)

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I didn't take any pics of this one unfortunately.  I ended up putting my actuators in backwards as they fitted better like that, so they are mounted on the backing part of the door where the inner handle mechanism mounts.  This avoided having to add a large bracket, but means that the buttons on the fob are back to front.  No great problem, I thought reversing the polarity when I plugged the actuators into their loom would do it but it seems to be more complicated than that.  I'll fix it up eventually.  The actuators are on small pieces of aluminium angle, in line with the rod to the latch mechanism.  

You will spend hours fiddling to make it work properly!

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14 minutes ago, simon a-b said:

I didn't take any pics of this one unfortunately.  I ended up putting my actuators in backwards as they fitted better like that, so they are mounted on the backing part of the door where the inner handle mechanism mounts.  This avoided having to add a large bracket, but means that the buttons on the fob are back to front.  No great problem, I thought reversing the polarity when I plugged the actuators into their loom would do it but it seems to be more complicated than that.  I'll fix it up eventually.  The actuators are on small pieces of aluminium angle, in line with the rod to the latch mechanism.  

You will spend hours fiddling to make it work properly!

thanks Simon - yes, had fully figured on a garage yelling session for this one :)   Now, just awaiting the car to come over from WA !

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hey maybe you guys can help, im trying to install a new drivers side central locking motor (universal) and ive made a bracket which works with the original but im getting this really weird thing where it locks (plunges down) with full 5kg advertised force but when it gets the unlock signal it pushes up with almost no force at all, not enough to even move my finger...can anyone think how or why it could get enough power to go down so strongly but not go up strongly?! 

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i will try and replace the central locking control module because it must be that?  If it gets enough power to go down ok the doors earths must be ok, it must be the controller?

 

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actually wait, because my car has an Autowatch alarm system/key lock fob does this mean that the original CDL module is long gone and that the Autowatch system sends the pulses to the motors when i press the fob?  in which case i dont need to spend 66 quid with SJsportscars buying an original CDL module but should rather get a new Autowatch one?  or does the autowatch system route into the original CDL module?

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You can buy hawk kits on eBay for about £20. Contains the remotes, actuators and control module. You will only need to swap the module and it's only 5 wires if I remember correctly

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I just found this thread and thought I would post my central locking method.

I also used the Hawk system. I tried mounting the motor horizontally (note spare hole) but being offset from the axis of the rod it didnt have enough "oomph" to reliably pull it. 

The motors have twice the needed travel though so turning at a 45 degree angle multiplied the torque and reduced the travel to just enough. So no bracket needed, just screwed it direct to the door.

I mounted the control unit in the drivers door and fed from the power to the cigar lighter with is a permanently-on feed. That way there were only the two wires to the passenger door motor to route through the doors and body, which I was able to get through the existing sleeving without having to drill any new holes in the door or body. I used a piece of locking wire to push through first then used that to pull through each wire.

There is a slight concern with this method that its putting a large side load on the motor shaft when moving, but the shaft seems to be made from quite strong nylon and the body is pretty tough all ultrasonically welded up so should be OK. I put silicone grease on the shaft.

 

DSCN3329.JPG

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I had a problem with the excessive throw from the actuator causing the lock to close and then bounce open again.  I solved it by using levers but fitting the actuator  at an angle is a clever way to do it, When I next have to remove the door cards I might give this a try

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Wow, already 2 years since I did this.  Still working fine. I like the idea of putting the control unit in the door - didnt think  about that.

Have also wondered if if may be possible to use a spare actuator to lock/unlock the boot, but not had a look yet.

 .

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10 hours ago, 910Esprit said:

Wow, already 2 years since I did this.  Still working fine. I like the idea of putting the control unit in the door - didnt think  about that.

Have also wondered if if may be possible to use a spare actuator to lock/unlock the boot, but not had a look yet.

 .

I thought about that but then thought, hang on a sec, I normally turn off the battery isolator. Which is in the boot....:)

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Just an update on this. I was getting intermittent non-operation of the Hawk actuators owing to not being strong enough so in the end I binned them and ordered some stronger ones from China on Ebay. These work fine. They look like these:

 

 

 

actuator1.jpg

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