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Hi,

maybe someone can help me with this.

my '82 elite, starts running bad and stalls after about 30 minutes, coil gets hot. renewed ignition coil with NGK u1056  / 48236. same problem. car did not drive for 3 months when this occured, before no problems.

checked for the ballast resistor, it doesn't have one. checked the resistor wire (white/pink one), it seems ok, not much to see. checked wiring, distributor cap seems ok. it has the lumenition.

what could cause the coil to overheat ? would it make sense to put a (extra) ballast resistor (9br) before the coil. or using another coil that doesn't overheat? the new NGK coil could just be bad of course, but before getting another one, something caused the old one to overheat, might have been age, but in that case strange the new one overheats aswell.

or any other suggestions?

many thanks !

 

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

So difficult to know without trying different things and swapping things in and out - but bad new coils aren't that uncommon.

 

My brother just had that very occurence on a brand new coil on his Jaguar. hought he was doing the right thing by giving it new components, but the brand new lucas coil he fitted was a dud.

 

Have you tried measuring the voltage at the end of the white and pink lead? If its lower than 12V it's fine and  I'd begin to suspect the lumenition unit... :-(

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coil gets about 10 v contact on and when indling. When i start revving it rises up to 13 v.

Would it make sense to put an (extra) ballast resistor before the coil? Maybe something wrong with the resistor wire, not much to see or check about the pink white wire. Something wrong with the lumenition? Or do they juist work or not work?

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Hi, as far as I know, a ballasted coil should have a supply of 6v, it is supplied with 12v for the duration of turning the engine over on the starter motor but reverts to 6v one the ignition key is returned from the start position back to run. The standard Luminition kit is for a ballasted coil. The performance Luminition kit requires no ballest and uses a 12v coil. I would suggest you try installing a ballest resistor giving 6v to the coil for general running bypassing the resistive wire as a check, obviously it would either have to come off of the ignition switch or have a switch in the tempery ballasted wire to allow you to stop the engine. I was surprised how hot the resistive wire on my 82 Eclat with Luminition got, I had a similar issue and ended up installing the performance Luminition kit with 12v coil. This has now been suprceded with full EFI.

Hope this helps

Regards Dan

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Thanks

Would it be a problem to just put the ballast resistor between the resistive wire and the coil?

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I'm not sure, try it and check to see what voltage you get, you should look to get about 6v AFAIK. The combination of resistive wire and ballest resistor could result in a lower voltage.

Regards Dan

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or can i just use a 12v non ballasted coil instead ?

it seems the resistor wire is not ok.

either a ballast resistor in between or maybe a 12v non ballasted coil (replace the 6v ballasted) i would think.

 

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13v is away to much for a ballasted system. You either have an overcharge or a dud coil in my opinion.

I would suggest you rule out both the coil and the ballast wire by replacing both. A normal 12v feed through a new ballast resistor should give you some certainty.

I recently bought plug leads from accuspark on eBay and was impressed by the price and service. I think they sell a coil and ballast pack together.

Good luck

D

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How hot is really hot?

I ask, because I have the problem, that the engine hesitates in the range of 2500-3200ish. Two times the engine went out completely. At this temperatures (20°c) everything is quite hot after a time... The problems are there regardless whether the engine is heat saturated or not.

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