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Hey folks. I was wondering if the evora red paint suffers from paint fade? Looks stunning and the car really suits bold colours.

Stu

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I've not read (gettit!) anything on here to say anyone has had a problem. To be fair, paint nowadays is much more UV resistant/stable that paint of old, eg Lotus Calypso Pink! 

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That's what I would expect but I know red is a notorious colour for fade.

Stu

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My last Evora suffered no problems, but then it was only 4 years old when I sold it so it would probably take many more years before it became an issue if the paint were to fade.

I would agree with Bibs though think it's unlikely and there are many products to protect and/ or revive paint so I wouldn't let it influence any future purchase.

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I'm on my 2nd red Evora with no signs of fade although garage queens at night.  Both have been up to 4+ years old at sale/present.  Quite a few LEGS members have other Lotus cars in red and little or no signs of fading.  However having had numerous red cars through the last 40 years I totally agree with the general sentiments.  

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I would imagine that if the paint is acrylic, which by law it should be, then there will be a clear coat of lacquer over the top which should stop fading issues

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Apparently it all depends on the quality of the paint used and I have no clue what lotus use.

Stu

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The best paints are now Acrylic Urethane and almost no one uses lacquer any more and certainly not with Urethane for new cars. Lacquer is far inferior and old school as it dries harder and harder and cracks. 

 

 However, all paint in time will not only fade but come off any exposed car fender unless it has a protective uv coating which is found in some waxes and polishes.

 

I use Dri-wash n guard which is a water-less car wash. It has won many concours ( best paint ) events including two of the most prestige's car shows in the world.   Pebble Beach, here in the US and Louis Vuitton classic car shows which it won top honors using Dri Wash.

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=dri+wash%27n+guard&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=31573928357&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3848698417847130250&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_9s0vumvmvk_b

 

It is far superior to any wax and ultra cleans the paint putting two, uv protective coatings. It is guaranteed to keep paint from oxidation as long as one uses it on a continued basis.

 

Also it is so easy to use and can be applied almost anywhere even on dirty cars without scratching. 

 

I became an independent distributor ( not found in stores ) just to have a good stash of my own and all my car buddies love it. 

 

IMHO, it is simply the best there is in paint protection for your car and makes the paint look better, and many times, better than new. Even when it is dirty, it is shinny. Not being compatible with water, you don't want to put it on any surface that gets wet and that you may walk on. Slick as ice.

 

Bernie Little used it on the Miss Budweiser to increase his top speed by an estimated 3-5 mph for his unlimited hydroplane!

 

It also is the best window cleaner and plastic, lenses as well. Chrome too. Great stuff. Love it!!!

 

 

atb

 

 

Richard

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Great post and looks like that product may be worth a pop.

I would never apply to a dirty car as no matter what you are applying you are running dirt over paint.

Stu

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This product is high tech and no, believe it or not, the paint isn't scratched. I didn't believe it either at first but seeing is believing in this case.

 

 

There are something like 46 different ingredients in Dri Wash and when applied correctly with a terry clothe towel, the dirt is encapsulated in a sphere and then that sphere is also encapsulated and hides in the loops of the clothe.

 

I have tried it on black paint and it does not scratch. However, one doesn't need to wash his car with it when really dirty and the best paint looks even better when a coat of Dri Wash is on it.

 

The best way to use this product is with a polisher and then a coat by hand after that. It is so slick, that one can hardly ever burn the paint, even if you try, like one could easily do using other products when using an auto body polisher.

 

I have used it for many years and will never go back to waxing my cars. The dirt doesn't stick on the stuff much either so your car always looks good and cleaner. A good rain storm actually cleans your paint of dirt and bird droppings.  

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Currently I use colonite 456 but may give this stuff a go.

Stu

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I cant seem to find this stuff in he UK i have a red evora SR n looking for a polish n wax to apply there are loads out there any recommendations? For this paint?

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So dare I say it, I probably wash/wax my Evora than most owners. Wash twice a week, wax every month using Swissvax Onyx (£80 a tub..), using snowfoam to begin, pressure wash off, and then use the dual-bucket and microfibre wash mitt method. And there's a reason I do all that....

 

Scratches and swirl marks.

 

For the love of God, if you want to protect your paint DO NOT use any product to clean a car when it is dry....and I dont care whether it's aptly americanised with 'Dri-Wash' or not. 

 

The whole point of washing when a car is wet is to lubricate the surface, which helps avoid abrasion. The whole point of a wash mitt is it avoids the abrasive nature of a sponge and trapped dirt. The whole point of two buckets is to avoid washing the car with dirt buildup in the bucket. 

 

If you go ahead and apply a product to a car when it's dusty/dirty/harbouring fallout, then you're just asking for poor paintwork. And I dont care how many accolades it might have won. 

 

Aslong as you prepare the bodywork properly, remove the contaminants and impurities, and apply a good sealant and then wax, any car will retain good paintwork. Using 'quick-win' products is not the way to go....

 

@Delta - if you take a look at UltimateFinish, you'll see a range of good products on there. Furthermore, if you give them a call up and talk to Jez, he'll guide you through all of it. He's absolutely fantastic and can narrow products down for you specifically for fibreglass and more so the Evora. I know yours is an SR so it shouldn't be as bad, but the earlier Evora colours had quite soft paint, and mark easily, so some polishes will be more useful than others. I'd definitely advise doing it in two steps though. These combined products are much like combined Shampoo and conditioners....crap at both!

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You should remove the old wax before re-applying. The guys on detailing world did some very detailed analysis and any more than 2 layers of wax starts to break down the wax underneath. Something like Zymol HD Cleanse removes the old layers ready for you to get more on the car. 

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I found reading this thread really useful, but as with everything on the internet you always get conflicting advice from "experts" - in this case one for a product you can put on dry because it is ace and works for them, and one who says no way and you have to do it this way. Both parties may be correct, maybe where you live (crappy, wet, UK versus drier, hotter US) has a significant impact on the type of pollutants and shit that covers your car's paint work and so the different results or views. I saw on Jay Leno a guy who just uses steam and a cloth, the dirt just lifts off and no chemicals - seemed great. Jay seemed impressed. Any good? Who really knows.......

So my request, question, plea - any professional car detailers out there - you know, the people who's livelihoods depend on getting this right, who also own a Lotus, and want to help their fellow Lotus owners keep their cars in tip top condition - let us know what YOU DO and WHY, what products you use and why, and also roughly where you live (for climate / pollutant reasons and who knows you may get a detail job out of it if you live close!!!) ;)

 

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I pretty much do what Kalli does, just not as often as it's only a weekend car.

I don't see the point in "dry" washes. However, if I'm doing a dusting of the paint work I'll use microfibre cloths and SONAX Brilliant Shine Detailer or Meguiars Quik Detailer. Certainly wouldn't do it on a dirty car though.

For a good wash I'd use copious amount of car shampoo (no favourite) with a wool mitt so there's lots of suds to reduce the chances of swirls. 2 bucket method. Then Microfibre towels to dry off.

I use SONAX polish or Autoglym SRP and then Wax with Dodo Juice Supernatural wax. I use Armourall Wheel Shield on the wheels. Can't say if they are the best products but certainly get a lot of positive comments about the condition of my car.

Coming up to 6 years of use...

568ed3b018ef6_2015-12-2109.45.50-01.jpeg

 

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