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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 4 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage


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Mission complete... albeit 5 years later. I was sceptical about the black but now that the inks is on I’m delighted. I’m very luck to have Glen doing the honours with the gun 🙏🏼

Raptor weekend. Two full days of washing, prepsoling, masking and spraying. Looks great. Went to a lot of trouble to ensure the holes are correctly painted etc. Now that the iPhone update easily

Sunroof delete. Now finished.    

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Body is almost off. Disappointed in myself for trusting the posted pdf instructions for the body removal. Once I found the ilusive bolts it came straight off. Exciting times.

I've also finished the body dolly.

Now I'm unsure whether to do the body or chassis first.... I'm also deliberating whether I should just refurbish the interior or replace. I like the patina especially in contrast to a newly painted body. Decisions

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Personally, I think patina is a thing invented by car salesmen to shift stuff that needs work. Just like Estate agents say no one wants a small garden. Might as well do the lot.

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FWIW. I've seen many a project languish and fall into an abyss of confusion, procrastination and dwindling resources.

 

My own view is that body OR chassis is easily do-able. Not quick though and can be very expensive. Even saving money doesn't save any money in the long run. Ironically!

I say...do the chassis/ mechanicals/ engine first. If the body is half decent, put it back on and use the car for a bit.

Then at a later date pull the body again and start work on it.

I know it's nice to have a 'new' car but it really doesn't matter and after 12 months in bits, the chances of it coming back together start to diminish.

Just my 2 cents.

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'A pound of rubber is worth a Ton of engineering.'- Jim Endruweit quoting Colin Chapman.

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FWIW. I've seen many a project languish and fall into an abyss of confusion, procrastination and dwindling resources.

My own view is that body OR chassis is easily do-able. Not quick though and can be very expensive. Even saving money doesn't save any money in the long run. Ironically!

I say...do the chassis/ mechanicals/ engine first. If the body is half decent, put it back on and use the car for a bit.

Then at a later date pull the body again and start work on it.

I know it's nice to have a 'new' car but it really doesn't matter and after 12 months in bits, the chances of it coming back together start to diminish.

Just my 2 cents.

Cracking piece of advice

Only here once

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I agree with Tom. When my car was restored it was done in 2 stages. First was the mechanicals. Then I got to drive a sorted car for 18 months and enjoy being on the road. Then she went back in to get the bodywork and paint done. I'd much rather have a scruffy car that I can use than a pristine one that doesn't go anywhere!

 

Pete

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Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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Thanks Tom. My car would not pass a MOT / roadworthy as it stands. The body is poor. As is the chassis. Therefore I will need to do both body and chassis before registered. I may be able to leave the interior. I'm in it for the long haul. I have other toys to keep me motivated.

So I guess the big question is body or chassis? I'm thinking body prep first - send to painter. Then chassis work (which is the fun part). Then reassembly.

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No worries.

It's difficult to save money on anything but the labour.

You're basically going to be building a new car but with parts that will need re-newing or refurbishing.

 

I really hope you have an understanding (or no) wife!

Judging by the pictures you do have a mammoth task ahead.

I wish you well.

Tom.

'A pound of rubber is worth a Ton of engineering.'- Jim Endruweit quoting Colin Chapman.

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i actually prefer the restoration over the drive. Although let's revisit this comment in a years time.post-18969-0-16593800-1436857193.jpg

Body is now off.

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My bonnet stay bolts through body to large washers underneath. Looks original. Q: does anyone make the sticker that lives on the arch?

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Lots of notes as to which pipes belong where

Restoration of small bits:

- I intend to use my bench sandblaster for most jobs.

- Use POR15 - Ive used both this system and powder coating. POR 15 is better IMO.

- I'm going to try my own plating. For the last resto mucking around driving to platers, waiting etc is a PITA. Sourced a kit from Caswells. I'm undecided as to whether to use shiny Zinc, flat zinc or Gold Zinc. Any thoughts? I'm keen to reuse the bolts where visible to keep a sense of originality (let's see though).

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Well done. If I ever took one apart would put each bit in a labeled freezer bag and get lots of plastic boxes, then put the bits for each system together in each box. Will be a lot quicker when you put it all back! Agree with Tom, very difficult to save any significant amount of money except on labour. The only good think is as the labour is not costing you can control the quality.

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Think twice about plating yourself. Been there. Quality is hard to maintain. Size limits. Waste disposal (Chromium is a real nasty. Don't underestimate it's carcinogenic properties.). You'll be messing about forever......then you'll take it all to the platers.

Not sure what the price is like over there but I just got all my gear back from the local platers for £50. Best advice is to chase all threads before hand. Beats doing it yourself. Even a basic kit costs twice what I paid.

Photos show just half of what was plated. Links, filler necks, brackets, brakes etc. filled another large cardboard box.

I laid them all out on a table and photographed them. Just re-make the photo to work out what is what.

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'A pound of rubber is worth a Ton of engineering.'- Jim Endruweit quoting Colin Chapman.

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I bought a nickel plating kit including the acid pickle - total waste of money. The quality is s**t and most of them are already rusting. I wouldn't bother again.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Sorting out post plating is always a headache but I like the label table idea.

In Melbourne it's very expensive - $500 minimum. This kit doesn't use chromate but a substitute so it doesn't incinerate your lungs.

Could I ask, is most of the hardware plated gold or silver? Or both? I'm not a big fan of mix and match but I do want it to look original.

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Previous point still stands. Test plate a piece and see what you think. As far as I know all passivation (essential) uses Chromium compounds. You'll be spending over $1000 dollars in rubber bushes and mounts so I still don't think it's worth plating yourself.

All my steel was silver (BZP) but I have changed to yellow passivated because the corrosion protection is several orders better.

'A pound of rubber is worth a Ton of engineering.'- Jim Endruweit quoting Colin Chapman.

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Latest update: dolly is complete. Very happy with the height. Nice to work on the car standing up.

I found this under the fuel tank. This is the third spanner I have found. I crack up thinking about how angry the spanner owner must have been trying to find it.

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I intend to keep all of the original worm clamps etc.

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Someone recently posted about the additional door seals. Here's a pic of mine. Don't know if it's original. Certainly looks old.

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Having trouble removing the light pods. Which way do I push the shaft. It appears to be frozen solid. Tried lots of lubricators. May have to tap it out. However I'm worried it will damage the glass. Already fractured around the hinge.

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That looks like modern home door/window draught seal.   I cant see how the one on the top edge would do anything at all in the bottom of the U channel.

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Could someone tell me which is the best way to drive out the headlight pin? Mine just isn't budging. Lots of wd40 and other concoctions. Zip. Do I force it towards the middle of the car or towards the outside? I'm fairly sure the hinge will end up pushing out through the body if I continue. I may even need to jigsaw through the connection which is a little barbaric.

I found this in the rubbish under the fuel tank. It pays to look closely before tossing! Can you see it?

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Diagram of breather pipe route.

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I assume the silver piece is a one way valve....

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Both pipes exit the body together on the drivers side so no T. There is a rollover on the passenger side. I'm yet to pull apart the drivers side. Will report back.

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To get the pin out, mine can push out either way. Have you tried pressing it out? Use a clamp with sockets. A small one on the pressing side and a larger one on the other side, to allow the pin through. Once its free should tap out. Ensure split pins are fully removed first!

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Okay great advice thanks. Will have another go tomorrow.

Confirming rollover valves on both sides. About 10cm from the ends.

How do the ears come off?

Okay great advice thanks. Will have another go tomorrow.

Confirming rollover valves on both sides. About 10cm from the ends.

How do the ears come off?

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No T Piece on the left side?

 

Ears are held on with 4 nuts - 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom.. you need to unscrew them from inside the boot.

 

The ears themselves have threads fibreglassed into the part

Vin Taylor

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