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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 10 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage


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I had trouble trying to source minimumdisk thickness measurements. For the record they are:

Fronts: new 13mm. Minimum 11mm.

Rears: new 10mm. Minimum 9mm.

so for me, $500 for a new pair of rear disks....

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Mission complete... albeit 5 years later. I was sceptical about the black but now that the inks is on I’m delighted. I’m very luck to have Glen doing the honours with the gun 🙏🏼

Raptor weekend. Two full days of washing, prepsoling, masking and spraying. Looks great. Went to a lot of trouble to ensure the holes are correctly painted etc. Now that the iPhone update easily

Sunroof delete. Now finished.    

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally found a replacement dust cover. Takes forever to figure some these issues out!

Next question re. front wishbone:

There are two extra thick washers that fit the pivot bolt for the upper wishbone. 

One 6mm, one 3mm.

Does anyone know the sequence of washers for the upper wishbone? Does the 3mm thick one go onto the front (headlight) side of the wishbone and the thick 6mm towards the rear (engine side)? Does this look correct?

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Did you get those ball joints from S and J? They are identical to the new ones I have installed?

Do you have the workshop manual? It will help a lot.

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Hi Fabian

Yes from SJ. The shocks are as well. I must say the lower shock brass packer bushings look a little marginal. Doesn't look like a great setup to me. Anyway I'll roll with it and see what happens.

Workshop "manual" - more a picture book than a manual ?

I mocked up the front suspension to see how it all fits together. Looks good.

Rolls.

 

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Yep that looks good! When it's all together and under load with be interesting to see how it sits on the road. I still have to have the geometry measured to see how it compares to the factory settings. My piece of string won't cut it, but should help me get to the garage. By eye the front wheel camber on my car looks off. This will be very difficult to adjust!

I've got those shocks too!

Has the upper ball joint got uneven taper to change the wheel camber angle?

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I couldn't see any taper.

Hey quick question. Wishbones are the same aren't they? There isn't a pass. & drivers side?

cheers

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22 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Has the upper ball joint got uneven taper to change the wheel camber angle?

It's eccentric, so you rotate it to affect the camber I believe.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Thanks for the replies.

Now onto the anti- roll bar. Miffed as to which is the right way around. I will take a guess and pray.

Does anyone have a good technique for mounting the anti roll bar bushings on the bar that mount to the chassis. Looks like a very tight fit! 4mm difference between roll bar width and bush.

"Lube and push"?

Edited by Rolls
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  • 2 weeks later...

Front Caliber rebuild:

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shiny.

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rubber seals where hard to find. Remember to grease mating surfaces

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Torque value of 32.

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Another job done.

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Front Caliber rebuild:

image.jpeg

shiny.

image.jpeg

rubber seals where hard to find. Remember to grease mating surfaces

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Torque value of 32.

image.jpeg

Another job done.

image.jpeg

.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've taken the punt and guessed it. I could not identify any difference.

Go to may 2nd post for washer order. Pic with red arrows is correct.

Edited by Rolls
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How does one ensure the upper ball joint is in the correct orientation? 

Do I need to rip the dust cover off to check the uneven taper Or, does the notch on one side per photo give away the orientation?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Does anyone know anything about rear girling callipers? I've searched everywhere. Girling don't even carry any info.

My issue (apart from lotus associated anxiety ) - this is what the piston spring should look like - low and seated:

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This is what mine looks like (sitting too high):

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The spring cage sits to high. Here is a pic before disassembly with circlip in the correct position. When I slide the spring in it hits the circlip. Therefore it sits too high.

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so, what am I missing here? Should I try to set the circlip through the spring with pliers. Just doesn't sound right. I also can't deduce the purpose of the circlip. It doesn't serve any function.  

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I hope my discription makes sense. 

Edited by Rolls
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Hi Roland,,just noticed on the above picture of the front suspension the adjuster damper knob appears to be facing towards the wheel? If it's the same as my car it must face towards the car center, the other way round - or it will snag and the damper will fail! Assuming of course they are protec shocks, which they appear to be. Looking good though! I'm watching your brake rebuild with great interest as I'm planing on doing mine again and zinc plating. Thanks for posting pics. The previous owner already did the rebuild, I just like zinc so will do it again!

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Hi Roland,

I can help here since I've fully dismantled my rear calipers a couple of times in my ownership. Firstly, if you remove the plunger with the circlip on it there is a small oval shaped 'bean' which acts between the back of the plunger and the handbrake arm inside the back of that housing. Should be greased up. You need to withdraw that 'bean' in order to extract the handbrake arm from the housing to replace the seal on it (replace that seal, they do leak). Depending on what position the handbrake arm is in, it pushes the 'bean' up and causes the plunger to raise. The circlip just prevents the plunger going too far inside the housing.  In short, you don't have a problem as long as the 'bean' is located correctly in the cutout in the handbrake arm and the arm is in its rest position (ie. not trying to engage the handbrake).  As you move that handbrake arm, you should see the plunger raise. If not, the 'bean' is not located correctly.

You do need to compress that cage into the housing with a suitable socket and a vice and reinstall the snap-ring which retains the cage in the housing. You didn't mention the snap-ring but I can see it in the last picture..

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Thanks Jon. You're a saviour!

Does the spring therefore sit on top of the circlip? Doesn't seem right.

it would make more sense for the spring to sit on the base. But if this is the case how does one engage the circlip?

image.jpg

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Spring sits on circlip. Cage fits over spring and needs to be compressed down to fit snap-ring in place. Once together Spring keeps handbrake lever and plunger back from the main piston. Moving handbrake arm should push plunger outward (it's a strong Spring) and return when released.  One way barbed teeth on piston shaft and plunger allow piston movement to take up pad/disc gap. Piston slides into housing during assembly then Rotate it 90 degrees for its operating position. Hope that makes sense !

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  • 4 weeks later...

Steering rack arrived from S&J today, I was surprised to see zip ties holding the steering boot in place. Would you suggest I leave the zip ties per the pic?

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Mine also has cable ties holding the rubber gaiters on. When they eventually break I was planning on replacing them with the type of clamp used on CV joints as they're much thinner than a regular hose clamp and don't have the big bit sticking out... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Steel-Drive-Shaft-Clamp/dp/B00A14PTWO

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Thanks Paul. Just ordered 10 sets - good to have some spares! 

I can't believe they felt cable ties were acceptable - :cry:

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You need the pliers to clamp them as well. My car was MOTd (yearly road worthy check) and it went through without any problems but I agree they're not hard wearing and a long term fix.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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