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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 18 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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Roland,  

Fantastic update,  and really pleased that you have taken the bull by the horns regarding fiberglass work,  it seems you are getting very confident with the stuff and  also look like you are enjoying it at the same time  :thumbup:


A

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Wow Roland, your a fiberglass ACE! There business potential in newly acquired skills!

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Enjoying - I don't think so. Lol. I've had a gut full.

Still need to do the roof which arrived last week. $1400 worth of shipping.

IMG_3026.thumb.JPG.379b7e161a167ca1a6e7107960d8575d.JPG

I can't take the credit for the glassing. I am getting some good advice and help from a Fiberglass expert. Learnt a lot. Interesting how he advised against using epoxy. I agree - resin bonds better with the glass.

The light hinges: I've completely covered mine up. I've loaded them with lots of glass. This will ensure that when I drill them out, the hole will be perfect and surrounded by fresh glass . Then I intend to rivet the hinges to hold the position.

The ducts: I've tucked mine up and out of the road - left them connected as they looked tricky to reattach. I have left my air intakes in situ.

Good luck?

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Wow I missed the decision on the roof in the end! That's a big one.

Thanks for the info. So all four of your hinges are of the oblong type with the two rivet holes?

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On 20/09/2017 at 14:27, Rolls said:

Enjoying - I don't think so. Lol. I've had a gut full.

Still need to do the roof which arrived last week. $1400 worth of shipping.

IMG_3026.thumb.JPG.379b7e161a167ca1a6e7107960d8575d.JPG

I can't take the credit for the glassing. I am getting some good advice and help from a Fiberglass expert. Learnt a lot. Interesting how he advised against using epoxy. I agree - resin bonds better with the glass.

The light hinges: I've completely covered mine up. I've loaded them with lots of glass. This will ensure that when I drill them out, the hole will be perfect and surrounded by fresh glass . Then I intend to rivet the hinges to hold the position.

The ducts: I've tucked mine up and out of the road - left them connected as they looked tricky to reattach. I have left my air intakes in situ.

Good luck?

I spent 4 years doing the bodywork on my S1 and spent half that time itching. I don't miss that at all.


Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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I'd have to say you're doing an amazing job. Crazy, but amazing.

Trying to work out my new loom at present. Your job makes my work seems less of a nightmare!

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Roofs almost done. Remember folks.... When working out how long it will take you to restore a Esprits body - multiply what you think by 10 fold. Actually, let’s be honest. 100 fold would be closer!

Quick question. Given I’m going to so much trouble to get the body right, is it worth considering tightening the panel gaps. Especially around the doors. It’s a fair bit of work but I wonder if it’s worth doing? Appreciate that the factory gaps where quite wide. Does anyone know the correct factory gapping measurement? Looking at some Vett bodies with the tighter gaps do look good. 

Thoughts?

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Absolutely- @CHANGES has done it on his SE - it looks a damn sight better

Not for the purist though.....


Only here once

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11 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

Absolutely- @CHANGES has done it on his SE - it looks a damn sight better

Not for the purist though.....

Yep.. getting them tight is a real pain , mainly due to the interference when opening the panels , ie doors  & bonnet.  Due to the thickness of adjacent panels and the hinge angles , they touch and won't open when gaps closed up..  You really need to work the combination to get them down to the 2.5 t0 3.0mm mark..   To get a feel for this all you need to do is open a door or bonnet on a standard Esprit and see how tight the joint goes during the procedure...   This is your limiting factor..   Another consideration when doing all this is panel alignment, (flatness across adjacent panels)  .  The natural form has the edges to the gaps rolling in . This is to help the opening clearance.  If you do not address this at the same time it will still look gappy..  Unfortunately just  doing the later will also cause an interference.   BUT.. it can and has been done..  Time factor is Huge... and that is with capital 'H'.... The constant mocking up and strip will drive to to despair....  When going down really tight you will need to allow for the paint thickness on the 2 edges before hand, otherwise what just cleared on mock up previous will now catch with paints on..    Its all about personal choice , I initially did it to see how tight and flat  I could get them , in main to reduce the wind noise when driving   but the appearance was drastically improved.. Not so much as it shouts at you more in the way it just looks sharper ..   So you must decide how far do you go...   A point of note , even going to 5.5 --6.0mm with flat finish on a 'G' car will give you major time scale.. 

Here are a couple of pics , I took the colour out of the second so the gap are clearer to see.. 

5a1159ac99424_20120211_143806(2).thumb.jpg.39e04618af3ca229d377a2cb5192f83c.jpg5a1159afd79a1_20120211_143806(3).thumb.jpg.6972e83881f22b35b3632feeb236f12a.jpg 

Hope that help ...D  

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41 minutes ago, GTK said:

Are you talking about adding material to panels here lads?

Yes.. GRP... fillers ...glazes.. polly... all before any paint.. 

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I was afraid you might say that. Can we go back and pretend you didn't?

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3 hours ago, GTK said:

I was afraid you might say that. Can we go back and pretend you didn't?

But it’s does look so good when it’s done properly ?

 

6F468933-63D3-4E49-ADC8-2FAD60BFE077.jpeg

76D0874C-325C-40D3-BE34-43C1899C44F6.jpeg

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One of the best paint jobs I've ever seen. At least from a photo.

Impressive.

 

Well jel.

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That pod alignment on the white Car is mint.

Dave the red car looks ridiculously tight. Do you have any issues with flexing and chipping? Don’t post those types of photos up - makes everything else anticlimactic!

Would you recommend tighting the gap from stock to say 4/5mm? Or is this overkill?

im particularly keen to get the doors right. 

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11 minutes ago, Rolls said:

Don’t post those types of photos up - makes everything else anticlimactic!

? ??

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17 hours ago, CHANGES said:


HPIM0446.thumb.JPG.9eabd68bb6310e39930f68582450cdbe.JPG

That's intriguing! Do tell, how have you filled everything without dropping filler all the way down? Tape? And are you then cutting a straight line with some sort of tool? :huh:

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You mean like this. Huge amount of work undertaken on this S1 import to take her to UK spec whilst leaving her LHD. And I mean month's and month's of work. Lights change, number plate plinth change, side repeaters removed, bumpers changed etc, etc.

WhatsApp Image 2017-10-12 at 20.15.57.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2017-10-27 at 11.45.23.jpeg

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6 hours ago, Rolls said:

Dave the red car looks ridiculously tight. Do you have any issues with flexing and chipping?

No not really the gaps are 2.5 - 3 mm .. plenty of room for flex.  On the latest spec I have also inserted a flush seal into bonnet and t/gate gap so no way they can touch even if i gave it air when driving it..  You must remember the red Esprit is a let's see what can be done version.... a test bed if you like.. 

 

6 hours ago, GTK said:

That's intriguing! Do tell, how have you filled everything without dropping filler all the way down? Tape? And are you then cutting a straight line with some sort of tool? :huh:

You need to key prep the gap inner edges, then you insert a grp roll .. the roll is bigger than the gap so you can poke it in... bloody fiddly and messy job ...  Then start the filling process's ...   To cut out I first mark out the exact position to cut which was previously mapped out and recorded.  The cutting is done with an air saw with 22tpi blade .. this is slow but stops chipping the surface.. the grp blunts the blades so they need changing regular.. It took circa 2 hours to mark out and do initial cut. 

6 hours ago, Rolls said:

Would you recommend tighting the gap from stock to say 4/5mm? Or is this overkill?

The white one in the pic's (not allowed to post another painted one according to Roland ) are 5.5..-- 6mm  .. That took a lot of work on the 'G' car...   The main problems starts when the panel symmetry is addressed ..  fibre glass by its very nature stays active for years. The shapes sag and slip, which is why the fit on some older ones looks so poor..  if you are aligning them all in the same plane , you need to sculpture the whole body..  This will involve restructuring all the joints..  *****  This is where people are saying what the hell is he talking about.. ********    well the next photo's will explain ... #1 shows the 1m flex engineers ruler being used as a plane guide from the roof to the tailgate......  looks ok doesn't it.... !!!!!!!

HPIM0270.thumb.JPG.916134247d2ecf00042fc96440860728.JPG 

Now look at it from another angle .....!!!!  pic 2

HPIM0271.thumb.JPG.cbb3c6c57696872ae4170ce137e01acc.JPG

The tailgate roof section has sagged....  pic 3 gets worse in the center.

HPIM0276.thumb.JPG.d2de414e94c020c1646a783503e3b7f3.JPG

It has totally lost its relation to the smooth contouring between the two panels  pic 4

HPIM0278.thumb.JPG.ec08625ed9c43f0680dc1715890379f3.JPG

 The roof panel itself had some dips and sways  which needed doing at the same time.    If this is not addressed then even if the panels are gapped it will look edgy , the one will not flow into the other.  You will not be able to create a smooth flowing symmetry that blends the whole concept into a single unit...    The real trick is to do it in a way that is subtle enough not to loose the Esprits identity..  just look good..  

 

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I could read a whole thread about this very topic. Did you re- contour the whole car by skim- coating with filler or did you use a spray filler? How did you recreate the contours? Panel gauge? 

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I had to re-contour the bonnet on my S1 as the corner always stuck up and didn't match the body. I wouldn't however close up the gaps as I like to be able to get in and out without opening the door!

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Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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27 minutes ago, Paul Coleman said:

I had to re-contour the bonnet on my S1 as the corner always stuck up and didn't match the body. I wouldn't however close up the gaps as I like to be able to get in and out without opening the door!

?

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6 hours ago, Rolls said:

I could read a whole thread about this very topic. Did you re- contour the whole car by skim- coating with filler or did you use a spray filler? How did you recreate the contours? Panel gauge? 

No doubt my customer will do his own thread eventually in which I expect he will ask me to cover the sections I have done for him. 

But to answer your questions in brief,  Spray filler or polly coat will only go on as the 3rd or fourth stage as its build is not tall enough.  It is also used as an isolator coat to seal in all the other procedures.  The first when deviations from profile are discovered is to re-glass or carbon fill to make up the bigger anomalies. much the same as you would reinforce all known stress points , or where gell crack has appeared and the gaps of course.  Second is the skim coat on the whole body with a quality polyester filler.  Once you are happy with the profile which is done with experience and by eye and with a few custom tools, the third stage is the Glaze coat / stopper coat.  which is basically a very fine self leveling filler..  refine your profile at this point still using a guide coat and suitable hand sanding tool , (mechanical sanders at to aggressive )  . Repeat the last process as many times as needed to get it right (usually two or three times )  .  Each process will refine the finish getting it to where you want using a finer and finer grit paper as you go. .  At this stage if happy you re instate the gaps. remove the panels and polly coat ,  not forgetting to do do the edges of the gaps and closures. Guide coat and sand each panel and body to perfect profile . Refit to body as mock up to check still perfectly aligned, correct if necessary..  If you have sanded through the polly coat repeat process,.. I tend to do this regardless, it allows me to finesse the shape and sharpen swage lines and edges prior to paint section..    There are lots of other little and relevant points to also do during the process but it would be even more long winded than this post.. 

hope that answers your questions 

 D  

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