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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 19 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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On ‎20‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 14:06, johnpwalsh said:

You mean like this. Huge amount of work undertaken on this S1 import to take her to UK spec whilst leaving her LHD. And I mean month's and month's of work. Lights change, number plate plinth change, side repeaters removed, bumpers changed etc, etc.

WhatsApp Image 2017-10-12 at 20.15.57.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2017-10-27 at 11.45.23.jpeg

Hi John, I have a S2 coming from the States as I write. I am also contemplating making it UK spec but keeping it LHD as (your?) the S1. Do you have a list of everything that's needed to do this? Or do you know of a separate thread that does? Cheers..

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Long list but not to bad to do. I have an associate paint shop located near Ipswich who has undertaken all the work. I can put you in touch with Michael directly and he will explain everything that's been done if you like.

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On ‎25‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 18:26, johnpwalsh said:

Long list but not to bad to do. I have an associate paint shop located near Ipswich who has undertaken all the work. I can put you in touch with Michael directly and he will explain everything that's been done if you like.

Hi John, thanks for replying. Yes please, that would be great!

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Happy new year folks.

Working on the heater box. Does anyone know where I could source another one of these levers for the heater flap? Just broke in half when I sneezed... I could 3D one but I would prefer to use the original.

 

C5803350-FD05-4A9A-B76A-06238EB038FA.jpeg.5c65f06ebca4a49d3c328605005db5fb.jpeg

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Hi @Rolls,

Been there, done that! Although mine only had the base still attached. Quite common. Not sure that a 3D printed version should be strong enough TBH.

@Matt-watts has had good quality items remade.

 Good luck.

Edited by Fridge

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I'm working on this at the moment as well. Will be interested to see how much you decide to disassemble? 

I got that part from Matt Watts. He reproduced a whole batch of them.

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I did the whole thing on my S1 about 12 months ago. Installing it in September once the body shell came back.

Dismantling the whole thing last winter, media blasting and powder coating it. Re-assembling with new rivets, screws foam and rubber parts. With a new heater matrix to complete, it's like new.

Unlike most other cars the heater cannot be switched off on the Esprit S1, and I assume the S2, so I made sure that the internal baffles fully closed the inner compartments, directing the air flow accordingly. It should last another 40 years.

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How iis the glass work coming along Roland on the body shell ?


A

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Also, I took the heater box shell to Powder Principle here in Sydney for powdercoating and they refused to do it. Said the metal was too thin for blasting. 

Edited by Freemason

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3 hours ago, Freemason said:

Also, I took the heater box shell to Powder Principle here in Sydney for powdercoating and they refused to do it. Said the metal was too thin for blasting. 

It all depends what media they use. Sounds like they have a one size fits all approach. Try somewhere else.

I've lots of photos of my restoration, but this platform doesn't provide enough upload capacity. Which I appeared to reach some time ago.

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Find a specialist with a cabinet, once they can reclaim/reuse the [expensive] more sympathetic media they're much happier about doing stuff like that.


1690642342_ForumSig200x25TLF.jpg.9e2d1cb238793de9f89fb9465f4722ca.jpg

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1 hour ago, Fridge said:

It all depends what media they use. Sounds like they have a one size fits all approach. Try somewhere else.

I've lots of photos of my restoration, but this platform doesn't provide enough upload capacity. Which I appeared to reach some time ago.

Yes they said they had a very abrasive media that will pulverise the thin metal. But I've seen others powdercoat their boxes, so it can obviously be done. You're right, maybe I will look for another powdercoater. I'm wondering also if I just get it zinc plated if that will be ok.

As for the second point, sounds like you need some third party hosting for your pics. A lot of people use Flickr, it's pretty easy to use.

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5 minutes ago, Freemason said:

Yes they said they had a very abrasive media that will pulverise the thin metal. But I've seen others powdercoat their boxes, so it can obviously be done. You're right, maybe I will look for another powdercoater. I'm wondering also if I just get it zinc plated if that will be ok.

As for the second point, sounds like you need some third party hosting for your pics. A lot of people use Flickr, it's pretty easy to use.

@Freemason

You could try zinc plating. However, it really should be black (though you could spray with a black paint afterwards I suppose). It needs to be as unobtrusive as possible. Which is why I chose black self-adhesive butyl soundproofing/insulation for the cabin floor rather than silver. From experience I've found carpets can move with time, and I didn't fancy a bright colour catching the eye between carpet joins etc.

I'll upload some photos elsewhere and link. I had seen that (photobucket - which is now defunct I think). Thanks for the tip, I'd not thought about that. Doh!

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It has to be stripped to be plated just the same. A galvaniser told me that it has to be done well too, as in using say a flap wheel on a grinder [not in this case obviously] isn't generally good enough when removing paint because it creates too much heat and leaves an imperceivable residue on the metal that mucks with the galvanic process. He warned against galvanising anything that hadn't been stripped properly.

One of my patrons is a media blaster and he gave me that insight above, into their motivation. A chap doing soda [or walnut or plastic media] in a cabinet is going to be your man.

Edit: or you could go to a furniture suppliers and get off the shelf chemical stripper and do it yourself. I've used it and the right stuff works a treat, especially on a smooth surface like that. [Don't ask me what stuff, I don't know.]

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1690642342_ForumSig200x25TLF.jpg.9e2d1cb238793de9f89fb9465f4722ca.jpg

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Here are some images from my heater box restoration:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/eum0visbkyhls8w/IMG_20161203_113539669.jpg?dl=0 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pso2xztoszxbr3g/IMG_20161203_114205261.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yv22b32sjzb81tv/DCJ_6456 01.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lh9k5kpyu151gnz/DCJ_6476 01.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lmttfcwpf50345m/IMG_20170830_180412251.jpg?dl=0

You will see that that the heater box was disassembled, and the original finish was removed from all surfaces, then reapplied using powder coating. Reassembling around a new heater matrix before installation once the body shell was ready.

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I pulled the end off that allowed me to remove the core. I left the opposite end on.

Lightly dusted the whole thing in the blasting cabinet. 

 Phosphorused the whole thing for 15 mins. Washed it. Por 15. Then a decorative top coat with a spray can on the outside only. I use the same Matt black for the whole car. I prefer this method as I can spray touch ups later without having to colour match.

This thing will outlive me!

Question 1 -  has anyone ever used a valve to turn the heating off? It gets damn hot in Melbourne at times.

Question 2 - David , why did you use rubber opposed to foam on the bottom flap?

5D07354E-5FEF-4525-8A6F-0BC9E819E95F.thumb.jpeg.a4e38127c853f114b912124b8b1ba7aa.jpeg

 

 

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@Rolls no idea why there isn't a shut off valve. Crazy. My 1961 car has one.

Which sort of answers the other question. I used materials that were as close to the original as possible. The heater baffle had rubber seals on three of its sides. For the other I used a more modern variety of foam less prone to deterioration. They work well.

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3 hours ago, Fridge said:

@Rolls no idea why there isn't a shut off valve. Crazy. My 1961 car has one.

Which sort of answers the other question. I used materials that were as close to the original as possible. The heater baffle had rubber seals on three of its sides. For the other I used a more modern variety of foam less prone to deterioration. They work well.

My mistake. When I looked at the photo in low-res it looked like rubber. Looking again properly I now realise it’s foam.

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Graphics have moved on haven't they! 


88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Not directly related to this thread but I’m looking for some quick answers. I’ve never followed anything other than the early Esprit’s so my knowledge of later models is sketchy.

 I’m considering buying a turbo S3. What are they keys things to look out for in the engine department? How much would it cost to overhaul the turbo? Any other tips would be appreciated.

thanks

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Hi . Roland .Sure there are more knowledgable folks. Than me "Galvanized chassis .Better rear suspension .Lot more power going through gear box ....Hope you get the car .....Mike

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Thanks. Missed it unfortunately.

I have a question for the bodywork experts. I’ve re- laminated the two bonnet pieces together as it showed signs of cracking around the seam.

At the seam there is a valley. See the photo. I’ve 3/4 filled it with epoxy mixed with microspheres. Would it be okay to finish it so it’s dead level with high strength filler or, given it’s a closing panel, is there a high chance it will crack?

 

91D170CF-6527-4705-BC81-5435D968EFDC.jpeg

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