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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 22 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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Roland,

Life is short enough, paint cost be damned, go where your heart takes you and enjoy it to the fullest!

My loom was wrapped in what sure appears to be electrical tape. Might be better to look into loom tape, if you care to.

Cheers

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Glad in a way Roland that the wrap idea has been canned,  You will be far better off with spray job in the long run imo, 

Yes wiring loom was wrapped with standard electrical tape at the factory,  If yours is anything like many the old dried out stuff will just crack and peel off ,  

 You could always use tape and improve on it by adding heatshrink,  also work looking into fitting modern style electrical connectors to eleminate any future electrical gremlins with the old loti are common for.  

I saw a vid the other day showing a special mini build,  they wired up all the cars electrical parts on the floor off the car,  such as electric window motors, etc lights.

Not a bad idea for a dry run to rule out any bugs in the system or motors etc,  easier to solve on the deck in the open space  rather than find problems when it is fitted in the car and you have to adopt the lotus postion lol .

Keep up the good work,  look forward to some more bodywork pics,  did you manage to get some new headlight pods or repair the old ones ?


A

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Been there, done that with my old S1 loom. It was Bradley mangled and I have fitted a new one from SJ Sportcars, but that isn't without its problems.

Good effort.

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Hi Roland, I've got a lot of experience with this now. The best way to do it is to unwind the old loom tape and as you unwind it bind the loom with new tape. The sticky on one side PVC tape is best. Any damage wires can be bought in the same colour code and rebound into the loom, but then unless you make a join you have to unwind all the tape to free the wire. Will be as good as new when you are done. Replace the connectors if they are damaged or rotten. It won't take long. Buying a new loom is expensive and the wiring will probably have bits missing. Much less hassle to use the original and much much cheaper. My new S1 loom had an extra wire that should not have been there and several circuits were missing. Buying it was a waste of time.

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Only just started.

Using salt, vinegar, baking soda to clean up the connections.

Using a sewing pic to cut the electrical tape (blade may cut the sheath)

Found some new matching connectors and bullets. 

Rebinding with loom tape (not as sticky as electrical).

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Anything to avoid that horrible mess of overheated tape adhesive that can be all over a loom. Cleaning that is a pita. Would love something in a heat shrink that would remain a bit more flexible than heat shrink would. 

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George,  you can get a wiring cover,  that has a canavas type inside and a shiney rubber outside to sheeth the loom, it is very flexible and is easy to wipe clean,  i have used this stuff in the past, but cant recall where i got it from i think it was also heat resistant, will try and find the name of the manufacturer or someone who stocks it :)

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A

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Not looking forward to the electrical part of my restoration, however watching your progress here with extreme interest. Reckon you must be about 6 months ahead of me. I was wondering if you used a primer surfacerover the upol reface. 

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Great work Roland,   Final prep is a pain the arse,  If you can hand it over to a pro,  which you are doing, will save you a lot of heartache and sore fingers lol.

Look forward to seeing some paint on this soon :thumbup:


A

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Well done Roland, looks great!

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Thanks Roland, looks great reface is so easy, I’m planing to do my own paintwork. 

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20 hours ago, Rolls said:

I will then hand it over to the panel beater to decide what goes on it next.

panel beater???

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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On 06/01/2019 at 23:56, Rolls said:

One correction to my previous post - salt vinegar, baking soda, and then rinse throughly. About 1/4 of the way thru I noticed my previously clean connections started to go green 🤨<span>

 Upol, spray it straight on. No primer. I will then hand it over to the panel beater to decide what goes on it next.730BA305-9132-46A5-A6A5-3B9347969123.thumb.jpeg.7dd1db19a43d4398fde7c0eb657eca62.jpeg

 

Hmmm... I’m having an issue with the old salt&vinegar / bi-carb clean up.

I’ve rinsed everything per above and the contacts looked sparkly clean. 

However, after a few weeks it oxidises again.  Any thoughts?

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Cut the connectors off and replace with new.Getvthe correct crimp tool and match connector size to crimp die and wire size.

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Thanks. I have the bullets and the period correct rubber sheathed connectors and I have replaced many of them. I am hoping to simply clean the plastic connects though as they are a pain to source etc.

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On ‎14‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 22:20, Rolls said:

Hmmm... I’m having an issue with the old salt&vinegar / bi-carb clean up.

I’ve rinsed everything per above and the contacts looked sparkly clean. 

However, after a few weeks it oxidises again.  Any thoughts?

I feel it would be wise to follow that very effective cleaning technique with a shot of aerosol electric contact cleaner, as the raw metal would otherwise be likely to oxidize quickly. The contact cleaner should be of the type which contains fine oil. IMO

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On 31/10/2016 at 12:53, Rolls said:

Gear lever: a word of warning. Never, ever take the circlip off the bottom of the gear leaver. This would have taken me at least 4-6 hours to get it back on.

IMG_8510.JPG

Hi Rolland,

can you remember did the circlip rest on the spring, or was there a washer then the circlip?thanks.

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Washer then circlip. The key is to take a time out, grab a beer and come back to it... like everything on these things. Patience is key 👍🏼

Wear goggs too!

 

 

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