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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 24 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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Black. Oddly :D

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1 hour ago, silverfrost said:

I have always thought the factory finish was satin black paint Roland ?

I believe Dan is correct on this.

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Mine has wheel arches painted in body color, some PO paint over it with Matt black underside paint but as I have no found any black paint under the original gold I can say that my 1981 S2.2 has wheel arches in body color, no doubt.

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Thanks.

I’ve decided to paint it the same as the rest of the body. I’m then going to cover it with the clear film (like the Porsche’s on the rear guards). 

Most of the panels were rehung tonight. Very satisfying. I need to redrill the shafts for the pods which is terrifying.

Next question: I need to contour sand the door striker area. Does someone have a really clear, original shot of this area please? Perhaps the side without the boot opener so I can clearly pick up the correct lines. I also note on my car, the outer section is quite rounded. It would be great to see what the gap should look like with the door closed. 🙏🏼

BC0D0F14-C861-4996-BCE1-0D6F2E42E413.thumb.jpeg.a799fa574829f9e9d5285021ff5429b1.jpeg

 

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Thanks. Great! Giorgio, do you have a closer shot? Trying to get a clear understanding of the vertical seam on the post

question; is there a good post on the forum around mounting the bonnet and pod mechanism? I’m really struggling with it. Searched but couldn’t find one.

cheers

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Hi everyone. Sorry for all the posts. I'm trying to get this thing into paint so i have a few more questions... I have paid a professional who is here with me now to hang all the panels for final fitment so keen to ensure i get it spot on.

Question 1: 

See how the special nut (13) penetrates the fiberglass, does it simply go through the hole that's drilled into the fiberglass. Its weird that there is no bush etc.

IMG_2266.jpg.b8d8dde651ab5f4950212557ab2bdf98.jpg

Question 2:

Hanging the bonnet. The bonnet stay connects to this section of the bonnet. What does it screw into? I cant get a bracket in there as there are no access points. Is it a rivnut etc?

IMG_2267.jpg.e4b2a3ab664ce6982c92d44cb58c3077.jpg

Question 3:

Headlight pod. I have fiberglassed and reinforced this section. I have relocated the old hole by shining a bright light behind the panel. It does however appear to be way to close to the edges. Any thoughts? If anyone has a detailed photo that would be brilliant!

IMG_2268.jpg.2468dafffdc1e6ca54bc726e985d1c31.jpg

Thanks again for the replies. Free beer if you ever visit Melbourne!!!
 

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Q1: a jack nut goes into this hole. Requires a specific jack nut tool to fit. From memory M5 but I can check if required.

Q2: bonnet latch is held by a backing plate with welded on nuts. Tricky to fit because if you drop it it falls all the way inside and is a bitch to get out . Ask me how I know. You get a proper fit with shims.

Q3: horrible alignment from factory, which is why my bonnet/headlamp pod shutlines are all over the place.

Edited by Freemason

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1 hour ago, Freemason said:

Q1: a jack nut goes into this hole. Requires a specific jack nut tool to fit. From memory M5 but I can check if required.

 

Sorry - the outer hole on the outboard side of the car per the diagram. :)

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Hopefully this might help with the in-body fixtures. My O/S outer fitting is non standard [or possibly as per S3] because as I found out later my car had a repair section let in to that corner. The N/S has the standard rivnut far as I'm aware.

On the pod question, my outboard fittings on either side of the car don't match either, and of course I managed to take photos of the non standard one, but it's still the same method of assembly. As per the diagram a narrowband nut outside, and nylock nut inside, clamp the threaded bar either side of the hole in the fibreglass.  

 

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To answer @Rolls' question (note good use of grammar there!), there is no bush in the lamp pod where the bolt passes through. This eventually leads to wear and tear on the hole in the fibreglass wall. Though the bolt should be locked in place, the pod can effectively turn on the thread.

If you examine the S3 and Esprit Turbo units, they use a more elaborate design.

To retain the originality of my S1 I inserted a bush through which the bolt passes. Which cannot be seen and leaves my car a little less prone in this regard, but retains the factory look that I have attained.

The jacknut in the bonnet query is as simple as @Freemason suggests. There are two jacknuts inserted into the bonnet, and the bonnet stay top is bolted to them. Simples!

Edited by Fridge

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Great helps thanks.

The panel fitter came today. He was supposed to hang all the panels for $200. Ended up hanging just the doors after 4 hours work! It’s a fight all the way 

Spoiler
Spoiler
Spoiler
Spoiler

😳

 

 

 

 

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Yes, Roland, it's a battle we're in fitting and fettling the bodywork components.

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The door gaps measure 8mm. With final reface, primer and paint it will come in at about 5mm. Is that about right?

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3mm seems rather a substantial build-up though it would be nice to think we'll end up with gaps that tight. @Changes is the chap we want to hear from on this, I expect.

My S2's pivot areas needed work, on one side the nut/bolt outboard had long been seized so mauling the GRP over time. As to placement I recall examining all in detail seeking witness marks of whatever sort for locating the repairs. Given the load in play I decided to move on and fit the later rose joint type which are a bit bulky visually. At least one of the pods had corresponding deterioration so aluminum backing was epoxied in during the repair. I really must see a specialist about this Shipwright's Disease condition.🤨

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Speaking of pivots. I have searched for days and still can’t find a comprehensive post around mounting the pods. I have tried all of the combinations for the pivot bushes and  the shaft either sits too high up or too low. 

 

Does anyone have some good pics and tips on how to mount these suckers? Given that I have comprehensively reglassed around the pods for strength I have lost the correct hole locations which naturally compounds the challenge. Any help would be appreciated 👍🏼

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I probably have, as I've a very comprehensive photo record of my full restoration. However I can't post on here as not a full member. DM me your email address and I'll dig some photos out when I'm back at my desk.

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Hi Roland,

just saw this. I can help! In my opinion you must change the design to the later spec. It's so much better. This is the best set up. The original design is rubbish the jacknut wears a hole in the fiberglass and fails.IMG_7183.thumb.PNG.5d2b47e2d9d25fd8a505c41b4840a16f.PNG

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The centre pivots 12/13 are different! How do you tell which is which? Well firstly there are two types. Sort them into two and two. Then take one of each type and fit them on 15 the tube. Rotate till the mounting plates are parallel. Then the shaft can be placed in one of two ways. Try each way in the mounting hole and pick the one where the shaft is at the correct angle. On the other side replace the jacknut with the plate and bolt. Job done! IMG_7179.thumb.PNG.5d41ec0cc6d9724442361e5dcd39153c.PNG

IMG_7181.thumb.PNG.47c47cb925e0bc53a35e2d52b65a4f72.PNGIMG_7182.thumb.PNG.0e0f0eff7d3f325613af8001739e58bf.PNG

IMG_7180.thumb.PNG.fb658c8953334fe4ddfa9710df4d1826.PNG

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Yes @Lotusfab the S3/ET pivot arrangement is far superior. I can't believe the jacknut bolt arrangement of the S1 & S2. The thread of the bolt will file away the hole on the outer side of the lamp pods! I fitted a simple plastic sleeve the prevent undue wear. Simple but effective. Thankfully I don't drive these things at night anyway!

Edited by Fridge

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Interestingly, when I queried these bush holders Steve at SJ Sportscars told me they were identical. They're not, as @Lotusfab describes, and their quality varies. I had to file one down as the 'tube' part was too proud.

Edited by Fridge
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On 30/05/2019 at 08:59, Rolls said:

Speaking of pivots. I have searched for days and still can’t find a comprehensive post around mounting the pods. I have tried all of the combinations for the pivot bushes and  the shaft either sits too high up or too low. 

 

Does anyone have some good pics and tips on how to mount these suckers? Given that I have comprehensively reglassed around the pods for strength I have lost the correct hole locations which naturally compounds the challenge. Any help would be appreciated 👍🏼

I found fitting the lamp pods the most difficult bit. Apart from getting the bush holders orientated in the right position, even with all of the holes retained in the body shell, the actual riveting on the body shell and lamp pods was quite stressful. With the fear of marking the body work if the pod slipped out of my hands etc. given the amount of work required in finishing and painting to get that far. Getting the bush holders into the body shell was relatively straightforward once I'd worked out their orientation from numerous dry fits.

Getting the bar to align through the pod bushes and into the bushes on the body shell inner side was tricky. Certainly on one lamp pod. Requiring lots of fiddling and fettleling. I had to re-glass one pod as the process stressed the side too much, and popping a rivet out of the side. So annoying. The painter re-finished my basic work before painting it again. They're both in now thankfully.

If I have any tips it would be to carefully dry fit them, using plenty of bubble wrap to protect the painted items, and go slowly. Do not over thinken the bars by painting or zinc'g. Or at least be prepared to take some wet 'n' dry paper to them if needed. Otherwise you'll never slide them into new bushes without damaging your lamp pods.

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Yep I agree a lot of adjustment required. Don't force anything or it will end in tears! But don't worry Roland judging by your skill level now it will be easy for you. Just take time, dry fit as suggested and it will be fine. Not the best quality parts that are available new. Best to use the old pivot bushes after they have been plated if you have kept them. This goes for everything on the car. The original parts fit and are better made. Only swap to new ifvyou can't refurb or really have no choice. I look forward to some pictures of your fitted pods.  Good luck.

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