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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 25 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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On 01/06/2019 at 19:45, Fridge said:

Yes @Lotusfab the S3/ET pivot arrangement is far superior. I can't believe the jacknut bolt arrangement of the S1 & S2. The thread of the bolt will file away the hole on the outer side of the lamp pods! I fitted a simple plastic sleeve the prevent undue wear. Simple but effective. Thankfully I don't drive these things at night anyway!

I also fit a plastic washer because I couldn't stand the bolt grating on the fibreglass. But you have to be careful because the plastic bush will alter the height of the pod, resulting in pane gap issues. Overall the way the pods fit with the bonnet is the worst system ever and I spent many hours getting it all to fit and due to the terrible design it is impossible to get perfect. If the S3 has a better design I would strongly recommend implementing that. 

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I had not problems. It's so simple the mod wasn't invasive.

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You cars looking great!

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As an Idiot's guide - If I want to clean and lubricate my bonnet hinges, can I just remove the split pins (item 17 on prev page) and push the axles inwards?  

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Yes you most certainly can. Ensure you use a weatherproof grease like Lithium etc. 

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Bumper time.

12 week wait for a new rear so I’ve deceived to refurb the old one.

As you can see it’s pretty bad. I’ve decided to use 10mm ply and I’m going to get small aluminium plates bonded in so I can get a good purchase with rivenuts.

75AC1803-D13C-44E2-85D2-64ECE7A7D57A.jpeg.d46e7f02824645ae87e23d020e0011e0.jpeg9F1ABE29-24B6-4B8A-8EB5-5CD2A4CF18E1.jpeg.90968c59329bfa126529ef6670a15651.jpeg

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That'll fix up fine.

You won't even need the aluminium idea, but it will made it better.

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Interesting, my bumber was completely enclosed at the back save for a couple of access holes.

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3 hours ago, Freemason said:

Interesting, my bumber was completely enclosed at the back save for a couple of access holes.

Mine was completely enclosed, but it's an S1. With the number plate lights in the recess, not on the bumper.

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20 hours ago, Rolls said:

Bumper time.

12 week wait for a new rear so I’ve deceived to refurb the old one.

As you can see it’s pretty bad. I’ve decided to use 10mm ply and I’m going to get small aluminium plates bonded in so I can get a good purchase with rivenuts.

75AC1803-D13C-44E2-85D2-64ECE7A7D57A.jpeg.d46e7f02824645ae87e23d020e0011e0.jpeg9F1ABE29-24B6-4B8A-8EB5-5CD2A4CF18E1.jpeg.90968c59329bfa126529ef6670a15651.jpeg

Hi Roland,  you can see on my Turbo blog how Indid this. You can buy the brackets still or make some.

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Hi Rolls! Abowie here from the Jag forum.

Can you flick me an email at abowie1965ATgmailDOTcom please about the Grays Online car?

Cheers

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Fiberglass reinforcement door to beam. 

This section appears to be a little under engineered (green section). These two bolt holes (red) look like the bolts could easily compress through the glass. I’m thinking of bonding in a thin strip of aluminium plate behind to reinforce. Has anyone else done this?

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0338B5DA-177F-4709-900C-30545BB7D726.thumb.jpeg.a832c383b68a2c3393b0e43de534d68a.jpeg

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No just penny washers when fixing. A plate might mess up the door align.

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As what @Lotusfab says. Also the actual door skin/structure is none stressed as it is carried on the door bar and associated hinge.

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3 hours ago, Fridge said:

As what @Lotusfab says. Also the actual door skin/structure is none stressed as it is carried on the door bar and associated hinge.

The gents are both correct in their advice, in my view. Further to Fabian's point, be mindful of stress concentration always when tinkering with a design. GRP has great mechanical properties when applied intelligently, aluminum is not superior in this situation. That said I have laid on just on touch of epoxy/cloth in that area of my doors as sanding did reveal some stress cracking. A bare door shell is a light piece of art, not so much once it's packed with the glass and trimmed door card.

I really need to get a handle on the Shipwright's.

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Ok thanks. I just doesn’t look that secure as there is a 2-3mm gap between glass and beam. 

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When you get the beam back on you may need to put penny washers behind the mounting holes to adjust the door fit. You can spend weeks or even months adjusting, depends how picky you are! 

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2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

When you get the beam back on you may need to put penny washers behind the mounting holes to adjust the door fit. You can spend weeks or even months adjusting, depends how picky you are! 

Yes to that! The washers are how one is able to tilt the window frame in or out at the top, so making correct contact with the door/window seal once all is assembled on the car. Important to know. 

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Doors;

’‘You can spend weeks or even months adjusting, depends how picky you are! ” I ended up employing a professional to set the panels as I’m keen to ensure it’s perfect. He has spent 6 hours setting the doors so far.

Shut lines;

The side of the car was finished and almost ready for primer... However the gap was just a mm or so too wide. Rather than add some filler to the door to close the gaps, we have decided to add a couple of mm’s of glass to the receiving pillar. This will give a stronger and cleaner finish.

Add another mm or two for paint and it should be bang on. Looks like a lot of extra work but it should only take a few hours to glass, tissue and skim.

Does anyone know if the perimeter of the inside of the door (not pillar) was painted satin or full gloss? 

26871966-8AA4-4829-AC81-3C5D4D6E2060.thumb.jpeg.2e5561bf3bcbcc201bd893e524dc2f62.jpeg

 

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A mm or two for paint?  

After all the effort you've put in I'd have it sprayed rather than brushed 😉

I suspect you should be working to 10-15 microns a coat for paint, so may want to build up a bit more with the glass?

I'm sure someone will cmiiw..

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5 hours ago, DaveyT said:

A mm or two for paint?  

After all the effort you've put in I'd have it sprayed rather than brushed 😉

I suspect you should be working to 10-15 microns a coat for paint, so may want to build up a bit more with the glass?

I'm sure someone will cmiiw..

Sorry, When I say paint I mean;

upol reface, rub

upol reface, rub

prime, 

paint.

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9 hours ago, Rolls said:

 

Does anyone know if the perimeter of the inside of the door (not pillar) was painted satin or full gloss?

I believe that perimeter area of my doors was painted satin black entirely, matching the sill and a bit of the B-pillar with a strip to mask the body joint line. 

 

 

 

IMG_1743.JPG

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I'm not entirely sure what you mean, but I did a lot of research on this myself. With the help in part from other Lotus Esprit owner/restorers. Obviously with particular reference to the S1. However as far as I know the S2 didn't differ much in this regard, but I could be wrong.

The interior of the doors are indeed satin black. The sills are not. Not even on an S2. Though I have seen variations on this, it seems from new. So who knows?

The black lines extend into the rear of the door apertures as in the above photo, and repeated on the front section towards the inside of the front wings (behind the front of the doors). With satin black in the upper door aperture from under the roof line. Basically, the inside of the cant rails.

The rear of the door aperture is more complicated, as it has a diagonal line extending downwards from the rear quartlight window sill. Very hard to explain. And I cannot post photos on here, sorry. It's a detail often overlooked, and spotted by my painter. It was confirmed by a fellow S1 owner who had restored an original car, and I'm sure is a style repeated on the S2.

Edited by Fridge

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The S2 sill is black in keeping with the fact that the entire rocker area was so painted, AFAIK.

Cheers

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