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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 26 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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16 hours ago, Fridge said:

The rear of the door aperture is more complicated, as it has a diagonal line extending downwards from the rear quartlight window sill. Very hard to explain. And I cannot post photos on here, sorry. It's a detail often overlooked, and spotted by my painter. It was confirmed by a fellow S1 owner who had restored an original car, and I'm sure is a style repeated on the S2.

‘Now I’m curious. Does anyone have a pic. Can’t work out what this is about. Cheers

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Back at my desk. I'll email you.

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For others chasing authenticity, here is David’s pic:

34CBF96B-42A7-4B98-A8A5-DB8DA30C5DDF.jpeg.dd50edfbd89c19d7fd91227cc4661fde.jpeg

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Courtesy of Mr @Paul Coleman

Edited by Fridge

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I'll attach a photo of a film photo taken of my early S2. Will illustrate the extent of black coverage near the sill.

Cheers

Cheers, my arse! Just had two "200!" error messages in attempting the upload. As this is the first instance of grief with such uploads and as I have just upgraded to FFM I'll presume there to be a related conflict. Will attempt again shortly. 

Logged out, now back, here goes . . . ..

Computer says, "Naoo."

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fcjg54.jpg

1j3kpj.jpg

 

sdz9s8.jpg

10n9xcx.jpg

Edited by Paul Coleman
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Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Bumper:

New, thicker (8mm) ply laminated in so it’s weather resistant.

32D9F565-A56A-4C3F-BFE7-DA9BEF9CEB87.thumb.jpeg.c2ef9f7af9e1b74a56110aa4d0de93f3.jpeg

Aluminium plates for reinforcement around the bolt holes

.78118860-4AF8-4732-8F99-6C0CE4B224E5.thumb.jpeg.f921fc9a6afc6f2f31ac58b097a0bc55.jpeg

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Like your work👍👍👍!

Can you do fiberglassing holidays in the UK, I have work for you!

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Lol. Not all me unfortunately. Using a terrific fiberglasser from Bayswater, Melbourne to help me finish off the loose ends. It’s just endless!!

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Metal strip running across the inside of the bonnet:

my car didn’t come with the metal strip no do I know exactly what it looks like. What purpose does it serve? Strength or does it help hold the curvature?

cheers

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Just happened to be inside mine when u posted...this one?

.looks to be about .5-.75mm thick steel, riveted on. No idea of,purpose unless there are holes behind it to Be covered up? Shaped the same at both ends...

i doubt its strong enough to be any kind of structural....i can ping it with a fingernail..

 

IMG_1870.JPG

Edited by DaveyT
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Yes, my late S1 has similar.

I did wonder what you meant by "strip" and imagined some sort of electrical feature. It is more of a panel. I think it could simply to offer some sort of structural strength to the bonnet underside to help prevent the underside of the bonnet from flexing between the hinges. It's quite a floppy structure. 

Though as @DaveyT says the panel isn't exactly robust to offer much support.

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Hmmm. Can’t see how it would reinforce anything as that section is strong. Really curious if it has something to do with the curvature - Held in tension.

i’ m miffed. I’ll grab a new one and see what happens... 

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On 29/06/2019 at 18:44, Rolls said:

Metal strip running across the inside of the bonnet:

my car didn’t come with the metal strip no do I know exactly what it looks like. What purpose does it serve? Strength or does it help hold the curvature?

cheers

In my opinion it helps to hold the curvature. I had to make a gig to recurve the bonnet and rivet it through that plate to hold it in the new position, because like all early S1 s the left hand bonnet corner stuck up! Look in the bond movie at the close ups of the car chase.Sure enough the left hand bonnet corner on Mr Bonds car sticks up! 

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Just looked it up on your thread...

damn it 😡 

Spent a heap of time trying to get my bonnet to curve. Can’t believe previous owner removed it and filled in the rivet holes.

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I'm also of the opinion that the strip is placed for the purpose of maintaining the curve, with tension being the functional mode. After blast and paint I applied a smear of RTV to the contact side before riveting, in the hope it would further ensure the effect. In panel structures GRP is known to lack stability of form as compared to steel. 

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Wiring harness:

G’day folks.

Coming live from Bintan island mustering some motivation for another round of Lotus restoration action when I return. It is damn hot here! You poms would have no chance 😂 

You may recall I’ve been working on my wiring harness. Salt and vinegar / bi-carb / rinse.... well it hasn’t worked. When I inspected before I left I noticed that the connector tips had re-oxidised. Strange as the reaction was neutralised by the bi-carb. Anyway, does any know if Dielectric grease works well? Some articles suggests it increases connectivity. Others say  it’s insulates the connection which for me would be a concern...

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the best way in my view is...

undo the loom tape.

replace completely or join any damaged, frayed or overheated wires.

replace all connectors with new ones

tape the loom up. Keeping the tape tight.

job done as good as new and wontbtake very long. Also it's pretty cheap! 

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I'd agree with @Lotusfab

Mine was too far gone and bought a new one. Great, apart it doesn't fit as good as it should. Too short in the front.

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I have a new one in my S1. Trouble is some of it was too short and it was for a single headlight motor. There were at least four relays and a lot of circuits missing. I had to remake them from scratch using th Lotus circuit diagram! It took six months to get it working correctly. A major short in the circuit was caused by a wire it came with that should never have been there. Weeks and months wasted. I could have easily refurbed the original. 

To refurb all you have to do is replace the worn wire like for like. Once the tape is off the wires are held by tape at about six inch intervals. It's really very easy to watch out the worn wires. Then tape them at about six inch intervals and retake the whole thing over the top. You can buy the colour coded wire very cheaply. Look on my blog for the correct terminal maker tool. Once you have that it's simple and will be every bit as good  as a new one. More importantly it will look new. That's what I did on the Turbo. So much easier and in a few days the whole car electrics were working perfectly!

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Thanks lads.

I have already pulled the loom apart and pegged it on a board. Tagged etc. In fact I’m already halfway through the cleaning / replace etc and have stopped due to the mild corrosion reappearing on what I have already done. 

My issue is more around cleaning the connectors and ensuring they stay that way. I’m not so keen to cut them all off and recrimp new fittings @Lotusfab - that’s next level. I don’t have the confidence to get it absolutely 100% spot on every time and have had issues with crimping on other cars in the past. 

My cleaned connectors have already re-oxidised after a couple of months 🤬

Is there something I’m doing wrong with the cleaning process? Has anyone used dielectric grease? Fabian, may I ask where did you source your connectors from? Cheers

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I recommend losing the soda/vinegar and instead apply a contact cleaner containing oils for the purpose of maintaining conductivity. My choice is Nutrol aerosol, by MG Chemicals, applied with cotton swabs. If more intense cleaning is wanted, one may apply fine metal polish, such as Autosol, again with cotton swabs. Works nicely with the cylindrical form of our bullet connectors.

Cheers

P.s.  I suspect the soda/vinegar may leave the terminal too raw, thus susceptible to rapid re-examination. The cleaners get it done while leaving a protective film, using the Nutrol to finish after doing the heavy work with the metal polish. IMO

 

 

 

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Thanks. That appears to be a great product but it’s not available in Australia. The other cleaning products available here boast about not leaving any residue which worries me that I’m going to have the same issue with corrosion reoccurring. WD40 make what appears to be a good cleaner but again, no residue.

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Can you get this stuff over there? https://caig.com/ Seems like it might do the job (I've not tried it myself but) gets good reviews on the Internet. :)

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It's getting there......

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Thanks Tim. Arrived today 👌🏼

Pods:

704A81A3-4B74-4F1C-9FAF-0EBDFA579824.thumb.jpeg.d74777e408a377bc92942ad47677c5be.jpeg

 

After much deliberation I’ve decided to upgrade the pod pivot mechanism to the s3. I’m still absolutely stunned that they thought the s2 mech would last any longer than a couple of years. Virtually impossible to get a perfect contour on the nose with the pods wiggling around in a Fiberglass hole that simply pivots on a threaded nut. Crazy...

So just when We think we are almost ready for a final rub down, back to the beginning we go... the whole nose needs to be done... again.

Q.below is a parts diagram for an s2.  For the S3, what is the upgraded part number for 13 here? A rod?

E89D2DCB-E31B-48B4-BD92-D44FBB54DD6A.thumb.jpeg.b363a2284d1320fda8e0949e1eeea323.jpeg

 

 

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