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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 27 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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Mine are fine and I don't think you need to go that far, but it's a good upgrade to have.

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For the record, here is the s3 parts diagram. I’m still curious about whether it’s a bolt or shaft that goes through the outboard ball joint? If it was a shaft it would do far less damage to the fiberglass hole that it penetrates.

C834C19A-46A1-4690-A373-F959702FBB91.thumb.png.f50dfdceb05397539feb15ee01602552.png

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Roland,

It is indeed a bolt that is fitted as pivot, its smooth shank bearing against the GRP so no undo concerns regarding wear. Late Giugiaro series Parts Manual specifies M6 x 30 bolt, Nyloc nut, and a "large OD washer" between pod and ball joint. 

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Pods;

Now that the pivot pod hinge is in its final resting place it’s become apparent that the nose sloping down towards the bumper is sitting high relative to the pod. The easy option would be to coat everything with filler. I’ve gone the extra mile with everything so might as well get this right too.

9C8A0A89-F50A-4562-94FD-38C5C60E1C8F.jpeg.fba68cca52411c2863bd19927b2f8d63.jpeg

I cut some slits in the pod bucket to allow me to clamp down the nose so it’s dead straight:

7DCB4DE9-27F3-4A51-B5B1-A8023C3AE685.jpeg.186628147d33c854137ed7fb0db02e89.jpeg

Down she goes...

5E9A3A7C-AD1A-4820-80FD-BDE5EAF280BC.jpeg.00021020fb399ed34940a7e51a639868.jpeg

Clamped:

CFC60664-C954-4FB4-B919-3EF7E0620F10.jpeg.a8e1507e4edea40c55adae3eff9e434b.jpeg

Now I have have glassed over the slots from behind to hold everything in position. 

Once that dries, I’ll glass the front with some filleting compound. Snap.

I’ve also gone around the car and filled in every screw hole with filleting compound (epoxy mixed with microspheres). I smear it in such a way that it leaves a slight indent, allowing me to easily locate them all once it dries. I will then go around the car and drill them all out. This will ensure the tappers will have excellent purchase when re-screwed.

I’m getting lots of help from the chap who will be shooting the car. He is doing the final rub to ensure the body is spot on (there’s only so much I can do with my lack of experience versus his 25yrs). Interesting discussion tonight about the many shades of black. Some are watered down, have blues, browns etc.. He has also suggested that I strongly consider a solvent based paint versus water based as that’s how the car originally was painted. Interesting.

 

 

 

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Great work Roland,  its the little attention to details that will make a big difference, even more so with the car been black,

Water based was for brought in for the enviroment i think,  I also think it takes a little longer to dry which was a drawback for small body shops.

I would of thought 2 pack would be your best bet as it is also stronger.

Think it would be wrong not to get your alloy wheels reconditioned and sprayed gold while you are at it 😉

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A

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Gday folks

Does anyone have a close up photo of this part of the boot lid please? Trying to work out what the two small holes are for.

 

4019196D-7CD6-41C7-BE9B-C593D9AB7545.thumb.jpeg.7a4d9e1ee39af63ca38a78367b907ba9.jpeg

 

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What holes? The hole next to the latch is for access to fit the latch. It just has a bung over it. Is that what you mean? Or do you mean the two holes where the latch fits into?

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What @Freemason says. It's not over complicated.

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37 minutes ago, Freemason said:

What holes? The hole next to the latch is for access to fit the latch. It just has a bung over it. Is that what you mean? Or do you mean the two holes where the latch fits into?

Thanks. Next to the bung hole, there are two tiny holes that look like they are for tappers to mount something. For the life of me I cannot work out what it is for.  I need to know whether I should fill them before painting.a photo would help.

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The latch. It's in your photograph.

A bolt either side.

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More work on the nose. Called in the big guns to ensure it’s perfect.

943FB907-93B7-4259-877A-53EAD6A83E18.jpeg.1463a1d5c5811412f828679fe8005ea6.jpeg

Taped up the edges

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those spreaders cost $400 for a set 😳 

Always  interesting to see how much filler goes on, yet the thinnest of smears are left remaining....almost translucent.

 

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On 18/07/2019 at 20:41, Rolls said:

Gday folks

Does anyone have a close up photo of this part of the boot lid please? Trying to work out what the two small holes are for.

 

4019196D-7CD6-41C7-BE9B-C593D9AB7545.thumb.jpeg.7a4d9e1ee39af63ca38a78367b907ba9.jpeg

 

Here’s another pic. Anyone know what these two holes are for please?

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At the risk of repeating..... They're for the latch. Though they look enlarged. Mine is now assembled, and I can't post photos anyway.

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Here's a pic of my S3 latch in case it's of any help...although the S3 has a latch either side rather than a central one...

no apparent small holes, just the two locators and the grommet. (Assuming you mean the 2-3mm holes?)

 

IMG_1891.JPG

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The two small holes your finger is pointing to in the picture Roland should not be there,  I can only presume it was done by the previous owner to drain trapped rain water or such like if they are drilled all the way through, 

If they are just shallow holes i.e not drilled all the way through they could of just been something trapped between the seal panel and boot when it was closed etc.

 

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40 minutes ago, silverfrost said:

The two small holes your finger is pointing to in the picture Roland should not be there,  I can only presume it was done by the previous owner to drain trapped rain water or such like if they are drilled all the way through, 

If they are just shallow holes i.e not drilled all the way through they could of just been something trapped between the seal panel and boot when it was closed etc.

 

Incorrect.

I've emailed photos of my S1 hatch.

They're just widened for some reason.

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3 hours ago, Fridge said:

Incorrect.

I've emailed photos of my S1 hatch.

They're just widened for some reason.

Surely David is correct, those are for the mounting of the latch.

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48348642142_e6cd96c330_c.jpg


Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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On the UK models, is the hatch release spring on the right side (UK driver’s side) of the rear latch?

These two holes look to be on the wrong side, but on my car, the top of the spring bolt was hitting the vinyl on the inside of the hatch so I added a thin metal plate. I put the plate under the striker and  used the main bolts that hold the striker, but one could have screwed a plate in there.  

Just a thought. As I said, I think these are on the wrong side. 


Jim McLeskey Richmond, VA USA

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These pics of the front nose look fairly straight forward. I’ve stopped counting how many times I have removed and reinstalled the pods - when I got to 30. Bonnet would be double that and then some. I can’t begin to tell you how much work has gone into getting this right. Even the professional help I’ve used along the way have found it very challenging. I will never, ever touch a damaged fiberglass car again. Even if it was a 308. 

A bonnet tip for anyone else that’s crazy enough to nut and bolt one of these cars. If you’re keen to keep the filler to an absolute minimum, pay a lot of attention to the adjustments on the rocker cams that lock down the bonnet at the rear of the bonnet. You can vary the up and down gaps on the front of the car by adjusting the cams at the back.

Another tip: Instead of using lots of unsightly shims on the front, you can add longer bolts at the bonnet hinge plate which will push the lip slightly upwards. 

This is the progress on the nose so far - from this;

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Now it’s at this level. Very close to painting;

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99623907-2BB3-4457-A1AB-3A429AC30A9B.jpeg.45491680c783f399f93b9491634a4e76.jpeg

Tomorrow night I’m going to fine tune the gaps. They look out in the pics because of the lighting. In the flesh it’s pretty close.

The flickering light at the end of the tunnel is staring to burn more brightly - 😀

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Very well done, Roland! Thanks for your advice in regard to bonnet fit idiosyncrasies.

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Gday Rolls,

I am at this stage myself, the correct fitting of the bonnet is very challenging. I have found that I was easily able to change the shape of the leading edge of the bonnet with a slight twist of the hinges. I fell that the final fit may be affected buy the bonnet seal especially the leading edge but also up the sides. Have you trial fitted the bonnet with the rubber seal yet.? The bonnet is very flexible with barely a finger touch.

Your car has become a benchmark for me, and I must be commend for your persuit of excellence

cheers, Allan

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Thanks mate👍🏼

All trial and error. 

the bonnet is challenging as the are so many different variables. We decided to get the pods right first, then fit the bonnet to match. We had to slice the bonnet laterally to get the corners down too. And, bend the hinges (As I stated previously you can improve the front edge by getting the rear cam locks just right). Then we offered up the seal.

Booked the spray booth for this weekend for another Upol spray fill session. 

 

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Fine tuning a few things.

This bonnet lip was out by 2mm on the far edge. Rather than user filler I used the reinforced glass so it’s super strong. A piece of steel rubbed with Vaseline (calm down Barry) acted as a dam to ensure it offered a clean release. I’m posting these pics to show how crude and amateurish you can be with this stuff. Buzz’s down to a perfect finish in a jiffy. 👨‍🔧

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1ECBB121-113A-4AAA-B09A-A86679241BE3.thumb.jpeg.d334dce8829d44dbc5319705375d2887.jpeg

200979E1-F50B-405E-89F5-4D704FC41333.thumb.jpeg.22df20dffe0206369605fd1dc7b76fe2.jpeg

 

 

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