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Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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3 hours ago, Rolls said:

Sorry what do you mean?

Satin unless the body colour is the same - I.e. black? 

Thanks

Peter suggests it OK to paint the mirrors and scoops in gloss black in the event you choose to paint the body in that overall, I'd say. I'd agree insofar as there is no reason to draw undue attention to those tack-on pieces by way of contrasting finish. 

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On 11/09/2019 at 13:57, Rolls said:

Sorry what do you mean?

Satin unless the body colour is the same - I.e. black? 

Thanks

That's it. If you want a gloss finish on the mirrors paint them the same colour as the body. If you want them black make them satin, unless you are painting the whole car black in which case the satin vs gloss contrast might be a bit odd. That's what I think anyway.

Pete

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Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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Speaking of mirrors. Any tips on how to disassemble the unit? Does the mirror simply pop off? I’ve applied a fair amount of pressure - feels like the mirror will break. 
F7006283-D3BA-452D-A92B-5ABC992711DC.thumb.jpeg.e5cb524f7bab8d7370cdbd16776b8ed1.jpeg
D9AC1E72-BC38-4F80-8453-521846EB4271.thumb.jpeg.ac14155df1a733851402bf30d30a607f.jpeg

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Remove the mirror from its plastic surround. Tricky not to break use a razor or thin handled blade, it’s held on with tape, behind the mirror are holes t9 get a screwdriver in and unscrew the mechanism.

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DD415003-BBB6-473D-B9E9-46B92778CD63.thumb.jpeg.a5a5384512d14f93177b1ae1527c2fc0.jpegWorking on the loom while I’m waiting for a spot in the booth. 

Wiring:

This wire from the engine bay has a cloth sheath and a solid core and it needs to be replaced.  The ID tag had been ripped off. 

Could  someone shed some light on its purpose? 

cheers

 

 

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Could anyone assist with the above pls?

On the diagram I can see WR - white red. It looks like it’s from ignition to starter but that doesn’t correlate with where it’s located in the loom which is more starter to rear fire wall area 🤔

image.thumb.jpg.17107deb78c05bbd41d50eccbe40fbc7.jpg

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I think the red white goes to the start solenoid. Should also be a white/yellow. Easy to check. Check the voltage on the WR when younturb the key to the start position. It it goes to 12 v then it should connect to the start solenoid. Im almost 100 perc cent certain its the start wire. Have you connected the rear lights yet? If not try connecting them. If the wires don't reach the loom isnt far enough through the bulkhead.

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Look on your diagram, its illustrated as the resistive wire thats used instead of having a ballast resistor, i.e you could replace with a 'normal' wire and use a ballast resistor.   Its purpose is to limit the power to the coil during normal running, but the Y/W provides full power (12V) during cranking only

R/W may have been tampered with to allow an imobiliser, it should run from the last spring loaded portion of the ignition switch to the started solenoid - its effectively the wire thats cranking the engine.

NB as a rule of thumb, any wire with a white stripe, or predominantly white indicates its ignition related on a Lucas/BL harness of that period

Edited by 910Esprit
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On 02/11/2019 at 06:16, Rolls said:

DD415003-BBB6-473D-B9E9-46B92778CD63.thumb.jpeg.a5a5384512d14f93177b1ae1527c2fc0.jpegWorking on the loom while I’m waiting for a spot in the booth. 

Wiring:

This wire from the engine bay has a cloth sheath and a solid core and it needs to be replaced.  The ID tag had been ripped off. 

Could  someone shed some light on its purpose? 

cheers

 

 

Never seen a wire like this. Its posible its a resistive wire, but the one I have seen are pink and not constructed in the same way. The easiest way to determine whatbthis is is to trace tye end of it using a multimeter. You may have to unwind the loom tape and rewind it. Looms are really easy. I dumped the resistive wire and upgraded to a ballast resistor. Real easy circuit. Mine is now running perfectly after some initial teething problems. Its starts really easily hot or cold. First crank it fires when cold. It has a Mega spark lumenition coil and a high torque starter motor. Shame you not bear me Im sure I could sort that for you. Look on my blogs for more info.

I would have swapped some fiberglass skills for my electronic ones! Im have a lot of fiberglassing in Epoxy and Polyester to get the ski racks made!

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4 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

I think the red white goes to the start solenoid. Should also be a white/yellow. Easy to check. Check the voltage on the WR when younturb the key to the start position. It it goes to 12 v then it should connect to the start solenoid. Im almost 100 perc cent certain its the start wire. Have you connected the rear lights yet? If not try connecting them. If the wires don't reach the loom isnt far enough through the bulkhead.

What Fabian said.

If you've removed the loom then you need to pull it further through. The diagram is correct.

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Thanks for the responses gents.

Loom has been removed, disassembled and re-mapped on a piece of ply. I’ve had to go over the damn thing twice as all the connectors I cleaned had a bad reaction to the vinegar/baking soda.

The engine bay section is such a mess, I’m seriously tempted to get a new loom. There is a pink wire that has been terminated. This must be the one you mention. Did the factory original loom have a ballast?  I wonder why it would have been replaced with the sheathed resistive wire.

Must get my hands on a coloured wiring diagram!

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Having done several of these you dont need a new loom. Peel the tape off. Replace all heat damaged wires and put a single band around the wire bundle at about 10 cm intervals. Then rebind it in loom tape. Cut off all connectors and fit new brass spades and plastic sleeves. Replace molex connectors with new. Simple. The resistive wire is a crude attempt at a ballast resistor. You could use either. My S1 has a new pink resistive wire, it works perfectly. My Turbo I updated witha ballast resistor. The most difficult part in updatingbthe loom is gettine the correct spade crimps. So many are on the market that are useless and dont work. Once you have the  correct crimos its really easy to produce a fctory finish connection.

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4 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Having done several of these you dont need a new loom. Peel the tape off. Replace all heat damaged wires and put a single band around the wire bundle at about 10 cm intervals. Then rebind it in loom tape. Cut off all connectors and fit new brass spades and plastic sleeves. Replace molex connectors with new. Simple. The resistive wire is a crude attempt at a ballast resistor. You could use either. My S1 has a new pink resistive wire, it works perfectly. My Turbo I updated witha ballast resistor. The most difficult part in updatingbthe loom is gettine the correct spade crimps. So many are on the market that are useless and dont work. Once you have the  correct crimos its really easy to produce a fctory finish connection.

I can see Ill have to do an expanded loom refurb section if I ever do another one! 😄😄😄😄

33 minutes ago, giorgio67 said:

Hows your car Giorgio?

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I'd have expected the vinegar and baking soda method to be problematic when applied to wire connections. Use a product made for the purpose, typically found at firms supplying electronics components.

Keep with it, Roland!  

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This is all you need. Dont copy the wiring though. I copied it from whatbwas there nd found it was wired incorrectly. That red wire should go to tIMG_0478.thumb.PNG.45b04cb71bc20c0e22ee0493eb436476.PNGhe other side of the ballast resistor. 

I update this with a new Mega Spark 4 coil. You need a ballast coil in this set up. Same resistance as the resistor. 1.5 ohms I think for each of them. 

You really dont need the yellow/white wire. That increases the start voltage at the coil. My set up starts easily a the running voltage. I would upgrade to a high torque start motor, its excellent.

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16 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

I can see Ill have to do an expanded loom refurb section if I ever do another one! 😄😄😄😄

Hows your car Giorgio?

My car is going well Fabian, lot of work but as I said it takes ages... nothing fit as it should as sadly I have a lot of non original spares, you know what I mean....

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1 hour ago, giorgio67 said:

My car is going well Fabian, lot of work but as I said it takes ages... nothing fit as it should as sadly I have a lot of non original spares, you know what I mean....

Yep everything is a lot of effort to fit and get to work!

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The coloured diagram is so much easier to navigate. Thanks  @giorgio67 & @Lotusfab 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

Given my rear loom has been Frankensteined, I might need to make a rear section in situ to ensure the lengths are correct etc.  At least the front and middle section is almost done. 

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Sills:

Can anyone shed some light as to whether there is supposed to be sealer between the rear guard and the sill? Some appear to have and others don't. If you check out my post from the 3/12 you'll see how it currently sits. 🧐

 This is for an S2.

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Sealant is purely to stick the sills to the body shell. They do not require "sealing". In fact they have drain holes in them. That's a bit of a clue....

I chose white PU sealant as it matched the body colour, however I quickly realised that black would have been better in this location. As white could be seen at points where the PU sealant was in place. Though you'd need to be lying on the ground to notice!

In practise it wasn't as issue. In fact it naturally and quickly collects dirt and dust and darkens up.

The placement of the rivets is far more important!

Check out my restoration thread. It may have a photo of the PU applied.

 

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