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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage - Page 31 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Rolls

S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage

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Quite sure that satin black is correct. The entire door jam area is so painted on my S2, a recent viewing of a mate's S1 ( 437H IIRC , clearly untouched from new ) showed satin black on the beam where visible beyond the door shell.

Cheers

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Well @drdoom my S1 door beams had never been touched, and were not painted or cleaned up. They were a dull aluminium from the hinge to the door catch.

Many of these cars will have gone through some sort of rolling freshen up in the early 1990s so even if done then that work will now look like original.

S2s may be different, and Lotus would change build spec often, and sometime depends who was on the production line at the time.

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The S1 has been in the current owner's hands since the early '80's and we've both been over it in detail during the course of a project or two. That said, I haven't checked with him on the matter and there is the possibility he brushed the black on for vanity's sake. I will inquire shortly. Your point on running production changes merits consideration in this perhaps.

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Mine were bare aluminium. I had the entire door beams anodised.

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Lengthy chat with the S1 owner just now, he does not recall the beams other than in the satin black now on show. FWIW. 

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Wiring;

I’m intermittently working on the loom when the opportunity arises.

I’ve picked up some tips from @Lotusfab Bearing  in mind I’m a wiring novice, I have learn’t the following:

- invest in a quality ratchet crimping tool + a power wire stripper. Saves a lot of time & they cost peanuts

- don’t use yum cha spade connectors from eBay

- I’ve soldered every connector. The next owner will enjoy the benefit. Something I learned - add the smallest of dots of solder to the tip of the Iron. It helps conduct the heat more efficiently (this is after you have tinned the tip)

- do not use a flux paste. The chlorides are too strong and may cause an issue long term. Use the self fluxing wire instead

- do not use lead free solder - what were they thinking!

- shrink wrap all connections

- use a ballpoint pen for your tags.  Ink pens (artline in my case) run if they get moist. Another rookie mistake. 

- tags. I use removable ones on string like in antique shops. Much more convenient than masking

- use quality heat shrink solder connectors for all joints. They have solder that melts when you apply heat.  They are easy to use and a much safer option

- to help the wires make their way down the plastic conduit tubes (doors etc), use a dry spray lubricant. The ones for the mirrors are 2m long.

- watch out for bullet connectors. It’s very easy to create a cold solder

- don’t use electrical tape on your loom. Use Tesa loom tape. Much better finish and doesn’t leave a sticky residue

- I’d recommend pinning your loom to a plywood sheet to make it easier to follow what goes where


 

....question for the day.... my existing relays are 30amps? Sounds like a lot. Does anyone know the correct ratings for each circuit? Or where can I find the answer?

cheers
 

 

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DIY wiring verdict:

Well after a couple of months of intermittent wiring work I’ve decided to bin the loom. upon checking my work, I have found a couple of cold soldier connections and consequently, I’ve lost confidence in the caliber of my work across the project.. I regret not buying a new loom in the first place. I’ve spent a couple of hundred dollars on parts and a lot of hours. At least I’ve learnt a lot per above.

Could a forum member confirm that S&J’s loom is up to snuff? Appears to be good value at $980 AUD. I read @vintaylor post from 2016 which gives some interesting insights.

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37 minutes ago, Rolls said:

DIY wiring verdict:

Well after a couple of months of intermittent wiring work I’ve decided to bin the loom. upon checking my work, I have found a couple of cold soldier connections and consequently, I’ve lost confidence in the caliber of my work across the project.. I regret not buying a new loom in the first place. I’ve spent a couple of hundred dollars on parts and a lot of hours. At least I’ve learnt a lot per above.

Could a forum member confirm that S&J’s loom is up to snuff? Appears to be good value at $980 AUD. I read @vintaylor post from 2016 which gives some interesting insights.

Hi Rolls, sorry you gave up on the loom. I have tried both a new one and updating the old. Now I would always update the old. The looms from S and J are fine and I installed one in my S1. Its very important you match the loom to the spec of your car. I found circuits  missing such as the fasten belts and twin headlight motor wiring. I had to convert it to twin headlight motor from single and put in all the missing circuits. I could have just updated the old one. The S2 loom I think is more standard, but make sure its the correct spec and you should just be able to install. There are always problems though, it is a Lotus after all! 

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I agree in part with @Lotusfab's comments. In that installing a new loom will never be as straightforward as it may seem due to model or production variations within a series. Particularly a Lotus.

However, Fabian is incorrect to state that the S1 loom is wrong. Fabian simply purchased the wrong loom for his twin headlamp motor S1. I did not. It is not missing any connections or adaptors.

SJ Sportscars late S1 (twin headlamp motor) loom is fine and well made. However, the manufacturer failed to recognise that the loom routing to the front compartment in the late S1 differs from that which is adopted in the S2. Certainly in my car. This required a slightly longer length. Approximately 6".

This will not be the case with an S2 specific loom, which I am sure will fit just dandy.

FYI I purchased my loom mid-2017.

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Well a long story I bought it 6.5 years ago and it was supplied as twin motor loom, but it wasn't! When I got around checking  it I found it was a fraction of the weight and size of the original. The rear light circuits were too short! I had to make all of the relay circiuts with the manual as a guide and up to five relays. Then I discovered  the choke wiring and seat belts circuits were missing. It cost £460.  I then upgraded some of the wires to take more current. With the amount of work I did I could have upgraded the original for  fraction of the time and money. I think these issues have been sorted now, probably as a result of my experiences. You will be fine with a new loom but its still far cheaper to up grade the original and just as good if done properly. Someone who knows what they are doing will have it like new in maybe half a day.you could get an auto electricin to rectify what you have? It took me two days to completely redo mine and create all the new relay circuits from scratch and I dont do it for a living. Your choice though Rolls. Sometimes its better to buy time and get on with the rest of it. 

The looms arnt made by S and J and the people who make them seem to have learned from their mistakes. Someone always has to buy the first one though! 

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I would think replacing an entire loom is inappropriate in cases other than the most gravely degraded of cars. Sections within the engine bay are certainly worth having a go at but those in well sheltered areas, the interior under dash and along the tunnel top for instance, are likely to be in fine shape. At least one evidently sound authority has advised against soldering for several reasons including the cold joint issues suffered by Rolls. New wiring for the engine bay, cooling fans and headlamps,  well executed crimp joints and fresh terminals for all, I'd say.

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