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S2 resurrection after 25 years in storage


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Thanks for your replies. Outer bearings have been ordered.

I had the box dry ice blasted. It has cleaned up nicely however it’s not at the standard of finish I’m looking for. I was thinking of using a scourer to clean it up furthermore. Any other suggestions?

 

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Thanks David.

radiator:

I've dusted off the radiator I purchased from SJ from 5 yrs ago. Looks like the brackets on the ends of the radiator are missing which is annoying. I made something out of aluminum stock but I'm not completely satisfied with how it looks.  The deflector plate had come up well although there is a gap between the plate and the radiator. If I insert foam I'm fairly sure it will blow out.

I intend to purchase SPALS per previous posts. For the upright radiators have people purchased 3 x 6 inch SPALS? Is the cowling necessary? 

949585247_piclotus.thumb.jpg.1d08232d5665ae87a4186190aba20803.jpg

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Looks like your S2 has the S1 radiator set-up, though I think it is bolted to the boot floor, rather than bolted into the air dam of the S1.

Check out my restoration thread for the cooling fan set-up. In retrospect I would have screwed the fans to the radiator surround, not use stainless steel rods. Which although are fine, they could wear unnecessarily. 

I fitted 3  7" fans. Without a cowl, as there is no room on an S1. They work very well, but sound like Thunderbird 2 is taking off when they're on!

Edited by Fridge
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Here was my S2 with after market Aeroline fans which worked well.

As David says you should have the sloped larger radiator which mounts to the boot floor and radiator duct/tray. These were the best photos I had.

0DC43844-DF84-4125-B884-4B63267EE79E.thumb.jpeg.5dd675c1e67f19d5a78aa04264959875.jpeg

I added a vent valve to the radiator as well.

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6973E640-1DC6-446E-9AEF-D78ED4A925EA.thumb.jpeg.aad21e310b6891e63ad84372f36f5b52.jpeg
 

Dave :) 

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Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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Yours being an early S2 Roland may be correct with the S1 type radiator, not seen this before personally but looking online some early cars had this arrangement.

37B50779-17E0-4B51-94E5-CEE2C9540369.jpeg.3131c4f4213506ca9e5da492bd4361b9.jpegD60CFB37-E99A-40EC-B940-B97014CFB4D8.jpeg.1b7b96a4194583477238cb51546009c0.jpeg

This was a JPS.

Dave :) 

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Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

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Yes, the radiator cage on mine was a real botch job, I’m not sure with mine being a relatively mid / late S2 why it was set up like this. As mine was disassembled when I bought it, I’m not sure if it’s a DIY fix using an earlier radiator to replace a broken later one.

The radiator was bolted through the boot floor which to me wasn’t very satisfactory, it looked too flimsy and potential to crack.

I have considered bolting the radiator to the chassis somehow as I’ve seen this on other restorations but I’m not sure how to align it with the body when it’s refitted. 

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Well, the larger inclined rad fitted to later S2 was bolted through the boot floor as well as being carried on the pod. I worry that grounding out smartly might impart damage though the incline does offset the force somewhat. A further mitigating aspect is that the upper bolts attach through slightly oversize holes in the boot floor and rubber cushions separate the rad tabs from the floor underside. That early rad must be considerably lighter, for what that's worth.

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Thanks for the replies.

My car came with a very rusty vertical radiator which I assume is original. It’s certainly looks like it’s done the hard yards. It also appears to be compatible with the air dam which has original mounts.
 

The new vertical radiator from SJ appears to fit. It looks like whoever made it forgot to add the side mounts.

I intend to mount it to both the body and the air-dam shell. I also intend to mount the fans directly to the lee side of the radiator - sucking gives greater efficiency if I trust what Google states.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone,

I wanted to revisit the topic of fuel tanks. 

Looking at SJ’s the welds seem to be acceptable but far from perfect. I also note there aren’t any pressings on the top.  
My question is who makes the best tanks for an S2?

thanks

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8 hours ago, Rolls said:

Hello everyone,

I wanted to revisit the topic of fuel tanks. 

Looking at SJ’s the welds seem to be acceptable but far from perfect. I also note there aren’t any pressings on the top.  
My question is who makes the best tanks for an S2?

thanks

I have a pair from Lotusbits - I'll post some pics if you like ?

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Oh no! What did he say? I can't imagine it's because of lack of orders, he makes tanks and panels for all sorts so there must be something specific to Esprit items?

Maybe they're more labour intensive because of all the welding, and more difficult to get sealed.

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Considering the number of folk I know that have had problems fitting newly fabricated early series aluminium tanks from a variety of well known suppliers I'm not surprised. He probably doesn't need the hassle, which can tie-up a small company's labour and significantly reduce their profit margin in correcting post-sale issues.

The S1 was almost certainly a development car, with a number of iterations of various components and implementations. Some of which are well known, but others being pretty much under the RADAR to many but a few restorers undertaking complete rebuilds. Electrical looms, battery trays & fuel pump method and locations, rear hub assembly methods, as well as the more commonly known single/dual lamp pod motors etc. Quite a minefield for a small supplier.

Though I would imagine by the S2 things like the fuel tanks would have standardised to a certain extent, so perhaps he could be persuaded?

Using the old tanks as a pattern would be useful, though I know getting the originals to the UK from AU would be costly. I'm sure there will be a suitable outfit in AU who could undertake such a fabrication using the original tanks. Perhaps, given the distance and his discontinued product Mr Axminster would assist with some tips for them if sent a polite email or given a call?

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E227DF8D-2A86-4838-B3FC-C8EE0E330743.thumb.jpeg.68e8f264b362441e7f516c608779ec84.jpegAEFECB07-4C95-4EE3-8777-CAF824812D1E.thumb.jpeg.89f63b875210bf7d26b718717f611ce0.jpeg
 

Door frames:
I’m about to install the door frame reinforcing bracket upgrade before I paint them.

When I place it on the outside of the channel it is almost flush with the frame. It would therefore be difficult to install the rubber seal.

Q. Should the bracket be relocated to the inside of the frame (the channel is deeper)? 

tks 

 

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I doubt that two of those items were intended to be used together.

The reinforcing bracket is an aftermarket add-on I assume (the door frames of my car were perfect and didn't need them)

The rubber seal is from a much later Esprit I think. I've never seen them used on anything but the last of the series of G-Esprits.

However I could be wrong.

Unless someone else knows better I'd choose one of those modifications or the other.

If you really do want to install both of those mods, then one idea would be to shorten the upper reach of the reinforcement bars. They look almost over-engineered, and if your window frames are in good condition and this modification is only a preventative measure then you could perhaps get away with shortening the upper arm to just below the door frame rain seal, or close to it - without reducing the effect of the reinforcing being done. The rear corner of the window frame sits quite a bit inside the door as I recall. The additional frame seal stops a fraction below the drop window rain seal.

I'll email you a photo as I cannot post on here.

Just a thought.

Another thought, knowing little of these reinforcement bars, when the car is complete the door frames need to fit up against the door jam seal. Owners often complain about leaks into the cabin from this area, and the James Bond special sequence on BBC Top Gear earlier this year featured an Esprit S1 which leaked very badly in the rain. This is because the door frame is not installed correctly. They are a pain to get right, and I found having powder coated my door frames that I needed to not only shim the lower attachment points as per the original build, but also very carefully and slightly ease the frames inwards at the top. Making sure that this did not impede the movement of the electric drop window. This manual intervention is often the case on the production line of similarly designed factory built cars. I just wonder if the fitting of these reinforcement bars could hinder this adjustment. Even though this very minor adjustment is at the top of the door frame (with the drop glass retracted into the door!).

Worth considering. I'll send you that photo ....

 

Edited by Fridge
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First I've heard/seen of that reinforcement mod. On the other hand the reports on adding the additional peripheral seal have been consistently positive. FWIW.

Cheers

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13 minutes ago, drdoom said:

First I've heard/seen of that reinforcement mod. On the other hand the reports on adding the additional peripheral seal have been consistently positive. FWIW.

Cheers

Have they? I added it purely for cosmetic reasons since that gap with the rivets is a design travesty!

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On 31/05/2022 at 23:14, Rolls said:

Door frames:
I’m about to install the door frame reinforcing bracket upgrade before I paint them.

When I place it on the outside of the channel it is almost flush with the frame. It would therefore be difficult to install the rubber seal.

Q. Should the bracket be relocated to the inside of the frame (the channel is deeper)? 

tks 

I have those door strengthening bars on my S1 and they have to go on the outside or the glass will be too tight in the frame. I don't think the extra door seals were fitted until the S3 came out (somebody will correct me if I'm wrong no doubt)...

100-0971.jpg

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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