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paul.p

rear undertray removal

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Hi has any one tried to remove the rear undertray and had a problem with the captive nuts that hold the rear diffuser and the undertray on ? The only solution I can see is to grind the heads of the bolts any ideas welcome 

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Hi   just an update , some one has sujested a rivnut its like a rivet but has a thread in it I wonder if anyone has used one?     Paul

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The rear defuser should not be rivit nuts they are a couple of welded nuts on brackets that bolt in to the boot and the defuser bolts to these. Shine a light up i to the two holes in the bottom of the defuser as they may me allen bolts

The under tray will more than likley be rivit nuts. Which if spinning can usually be pryed out with a screwdriver and pliers.

All the best

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Spray with WD a couple off days before you start yes had the same issue weeks ago .

Eddie

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I found this a good help taken from Lotus Talk forum when i changed my exhaust couple of weeks ago.

Eddie.
PLEASE NOTE: I am not liable for your DIY. Do this at your own risk. Just take care of yourself when you work on an automobile.


Tools/Parts needed:

1. 10mm socket
2. 13mm socket
3. 15mm socket
4. 3/8" ratchet
5. 1/2" ratchet
6. 1/2" to 3/8" adapters, 3/8" extension, 1/2" extension as needed
7. WD-40 or lithium grease (spray typeicon1.png preferred)
8. Beer (AFTER TEST DRIVE PLEASE!!)


I have installed an exhaust on the exige and replacing the exhaust on the evora is just as straight forward. Though there are still some tricks to get the job done smoother. 

1. The diffuser has to come off along with particon1.png of the engine tray. Now the diffuser has several hex bolts in 4mm and two in 5mm. Shown below of one 5mm and one 4mm bolt: 

8310881989_72506b86e1_z.jpg

 
 
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Other locationsicon1.png of 4mm bolts to be removed under the diffuser:

8310881735_988e009b19_z.jpg

 
 
 
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Both the 5mm pieces have to be removed but only certain 4mm bolts have to be removed. The reason is some of these 4mm bolts hold the rear grill above the diffuser along the edgeicon1.png. They have a locking nylon nut on the other side (as show) and there is no reason no remove these.

8310881845_0920a33c0e_z.jpg

 
 
 
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2. You will have to remove some of the 10mm bolts from the engine tray as shown so the diffuser can slideicon1.png out with ease.

8311930454_d2fb8e3643_z.jpg

 
 
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3. Once the diffuser is removed, you have a clear view of the OEM exhaust. I have labeled a few things in the picture. The "ANTI-ROLL BAR" label will be appearing in a lot of pictures below to orientate you during the process. Note the two diffuser hangers. These are two obstacles you have to overcome when removing the OEM exhaust due to the bulkiness. 

8311930906_a07973bfb9_z.jpg

 
 
 
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4. Locate the clamp. Spray some WD-40 if needed to loosen the 15mm nut. 

8311930632_986e422f03_z.jpg

 
 
 
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5. Locate the muffler can hanger and resonator hanger. You have to remove these two with a 10mm bolt and a nut on the other side.

8311932036_ed1a883ea9_z.jpg

 
 
 
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8310882965_02a1520509_z.jpg

 
 
 
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Afterwhich, slide out the muffler can hanger (pry it open to facilitate this process if needed). The resonator hanger may "hang loose".

8310882605_aa271e70d4_z.jpg

 
 
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6. Now, let's focusicon1.png on the exhaust side hangers where the rubber bushings are. They are located on the left and right side of the exhaust. The trick here is to loosen the bolts but NOT remove the bracket. Mounting the new exhaust will be much easier. If it is difficult to wiggle the exhaustside hangers out of the bushings, you can remove ONE bolt and let the bracket pivot. Apply WD-40 if needed between the hanger and the bushing.

8311930752_2f08a03638_z.jpg

 
 
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7. Can we remove the exhaust yet? Not yet. You can try but it is easier to loosen the anti-roll bar via the two brackets (one on each side) first and then wriggle the exhaust out. Locate the bracket as shown.

8311931750_e4f4ff1948_z.jpg

 
 
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Once removed, push the anti-roll bar down and towards the front of the car. It will not drop all the way down to the ground.

8310882259_e7bcc4e83c_z.jpg

 
 
 
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8. Now you can remove the exhaust. Requires some patience and wriggling back and fro, left and right. Do not rush and yes it might fall flat on you. Anticipate every resulting wriggle you make during the process! Having a beer belly may help to cushion the impact...

Remember the diffuser hangers? Try not to bend them back to too much when removing the exhaust. I feel that they are quite filmsy and once you break them, it will be a pain replaceicon1.png them (fixed by a bolt near the top of the parking sensors).

8312044052_6bf64f4bec_z.jpg

 
 
 
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9. The OEM exhaust is now removed. You can now curse at the exhaust. It may not retaliate but don't be too harsh. 

8310971399_74baa529ed_z.jpg

 
 
 
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10. Do not forget to remove the resonator hanger. Pry open a little to facilitate the removal.

11. Installing of a new exhaust is exactly the reversal of the steps above. Nothing exciting. Make sure all bolts go back to their exact and intended locations. The parts not needed are: the muffler can hanger, the resonator hanger and the bolt/nut that hold them together. 

A new clamp should come with your new exhaust. Do not reuse the clamp on the OEM exhaust.

8311931434_3b6d26f455_z.jpg

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Hi Thanks for all your help ,it turns out that rear undertray fixings are Rivnuts which on my car 5 of them decided to turn with the bolts leaving the only way to get them off is by grinding them away.          Today I will replace them  and hope that's the answer until the rear undertray comes off for the next service    Paul 

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