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Qavion

Check Engine Light but no faults in Freescan

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Ian,

 

I bought the TPS sensor at NAPA since the part crossed.  I don' have it with me now but t's an Echlin part and it looks very similar, except the inside (where it attaches is gray in color instead of black like the original). I'll send it later.

 

Thanks for the gap information. That's the project for tonight.

 

We can double check the throttle cable adjustment again.

 

Thank you,

Bill


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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You need that Tps set at 0.5v - it will go up to 4.5v ish at full throttle.

If you are not seeing this change in freescan or cannot adjust your Tps - you need to fix this first.....it's a kind of critical thingy !!!


Only here once

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Yes, it's starting at .53v

At 64 mph (don't know km), it's at 2.37v @4636 rpm

 

Unfortunately, it looks like my Wastegate solenoid isn't working and my secondary injectors since it's reading zero for my whole ride.


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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Did you get any more error messages, Bill? Code 26 covers the wastegate solenoid and secondary injectors.  Note that there is a common fuse for the solenoid and secondary injectors. On the other hand, I'm wondering if "limp home" mode is shutting these down??? (I don't know if it does this).

The manual also mentions a battery correction mode. At low volts, the ECM can compensate for a weak spark generated by the direct ignition module by:

#Increasing the injector pulse width

#Increasing the idle rpm

#Increasing the ignition dwell time.

 

I'm wondering what the DI module is doing to your car.

 

It's curious to read in some parts of the manual that TPS should read 0.45 to 0.70volts on the "Tech 1" (scanner) with the throttle closed. In other parts, it does say that typically, the voltage will be 0.5v at idle (throttle closed).

 

Meanwhile, back to my problem. I see that erratic voltage can cause IAC problems. However, the manual says it's only a concern if the voltage is less than 9.0 or greater than 17.8.

Edited by Qavion

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According to Rockauto, the Airtex/Wells 5S5036 is the same as the Airtex TPS112 (TPS 112) which is listed in the alternate parts list for Lotus' A910E961K Throttle Position Sensor. Has anyone tried this brand?

 

It's listed as U$38.89 (plus postage). A fraction of the price of the Lotus Part.

 

Thanks

Cheers

Ian.

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Hi Ian,

 

The Echlin part number that DOES NOT work is 2-19072.  This was crossed from the GM part number 17106680.

Since I had multiple sensor parts failures,  I thinking of paying the extra for the Lotus parts (especially when it's an important component).

 

Appears my Waste Gate actuator arm is really stuck.  It takes a lot of force to move it.  Are you guys able to move this arm easily or does it take more force to move?

 

Thanks,

Bill


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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Ian,

 

Sorry my quote function doesn't work, otherwise I would be cut and pasting stuff into this thread.

 

I'm thinking of getting a new battery anyways.  Any recommendations as to what is the preferred battery?

I did get a Code 26 briefly at the start of this project, so I'll check the fuse as well as a waste gate actuator and any relays/sensors.

 

To pass emissions,  I'll need the CEL off.  I think my batteries lowest Freescan value was 11.3, but it was ranging from 11.7 to high 13s.  Before I swap back to the original DI module and Coils, I might replace the battery just to check off code 26/42 issues.

 

The new fuel pumps o ring evidently wasn't the correct shape, so I'll need to fix that as if has developed a small leak.

 

Back to work now.

 

Bill


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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Thanks, Bill

 

It's normally very hard to move and you can damage the capsule by pulling on the actuator rod (mentioned in the manual). Can you disconnect the hose from the capsule and attach one of the seat lumbar pumps to the hose, then pump up the capsule? This makes it much easier to separate the capsule actuator from the turbo.

 

Or have you already separated the wastegate actuator arm from the lever which is attached to the turbo (and cannot move the lever)? If the lever itself is jammed (unlikely), the turbo will require repairing.

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Bill, you can manually add quotes by typing QUOTE in square brackets at the start of the quote and /QUOTE in square brackets at the end of the quote.

 

I think the voltages you are seeing are fine. A 12volt battery is going to dip down if it's not being backed up by the alternator and, at the same time is being subject to a load, such as fans, electric pumps, starter motors, etc. I saw a value well below 11 volts on Freescan (and my battery is only a few weeks old), so I suspected something wrong with the alternator regulator.

 

I'm wondering where to turn next. With Freescan not operating, and the CEL light illuminated, I'm leaning towards another ECM. I'm wondering if it's possible that my old ALDL-Serial adaptor is damaging the ECU. I leave the adaptor circuit board plugged into the ALDL in the cabin. I've ordered a new adaptor (USB). Hopefully I'll have more luck getting this to run than a USB one I tried last month. I'm also wondering if my Memcal and chip is ok. They could be really expensive to replace.

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Update: New alternator regulator fitted (fortunately, it fitted, it was much fatter than the previous one). Started up the car. No CEL even with the car up to temperature... a good sign.... I couldn't get rid of it before. I think I'll wait for my new ALDL-USB adaptor to arrive before I go for a proper test run.

 

Keeping my fingers crossed that we will all find some easy fixes :)

 

(EDIT: I removed some text regarding the throttle jacking capsule. I thought the throttle jacking mechanism might interfere with the TPS calibrations, making it hard to reduce the voltage to 0.5, but it will actually work in the opposite sense).

Edited by Qavion

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Thanks, Bill

 

It's normally very hard to move and you can damage the capsule by pulling on the actuator rod (mentioned in the manual). Can you disconnect the hose from the capsule and attach one of the seat lumbar pumps to the hose, then pump up the capsule? This makes it much easier to separate the capsule actuator from the turbo.

 

Or have you already separated the wastegate actuator arm from the lever which is attached to the turbo (and cannot move the lever)? If the lever itself is jammed (unlikely), the turbo will require repairing.

 

Don't dismiss the waste gate lever being jammed , mine was and caused an overboost condition and did pop the turbo by not bleeding off and sticking,on tear down the lever was very badly worn.


Simplest things first.

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Don't dismiss the waste gate lever being jammed ,

 

 

Interesting... The wastegate shaft support sleeve moved sideways* on mine, but it didn't jam. It caused the wastegate not to close properly (reducing the boost). I had to have the sleeve welded in position.

 

This is how it shouldn't look:

 

TurboWastegate.jpg

 

 

 

Anyway, once the actuator rod is removed from the lever, the lever/wastegate should move very freely.

 

Cheers

Ian.

 

*relative to the wastegate actuator rod

Edited by Qavion

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Well guys, I did the wiring test for Error 41 Engine Speed Signal Missing in the EMH and it points to a faulty DI Module.

 

I had replaced the car with new coils and new (after market) DI module only to get the same code.  So I put back on the original coils and DI module and got the same code.

 

I'm going to order a Lotus DI module and Lotus Flywheel sensor since the after market parts aren't cutting it for my vehicle.

 

At least the new ECM (Lotus part) is working.

 

I will tackle the waste gate issues after I get the Error 41 code to clear.  I have a feeling it will be replaced with an Error 26a or 26b once it does clear since my wastegate solenoid DC and secondary injectors DC are still reading zero.

 

I went back to my original fuel pump o ring and no more fuel leaks.  God that's not easy getting that retaining ring to line up.

 

 

Bill


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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I have a feeling it will be replaced with an Error 26a or 26b once it does clear since my wastegate solenoid DC and secondary injectors DC are still reading zero.

 

 

Bill, I thought the wastegate solenoid and secondary injectors had a common fuse, but I was mistaken. Still, if you haven't already done so, I guess it wouldn't hurt to check your Solenoid Fuse. 

 

Looking at the wiring diagrams, I believe these are the applicable circuits (which I've marked in red and purple).

 

http://www.iinet.net.au/[email protected]/Lotus/ECMFuelCircuit.gif

 

For the Wastegate solenoid problem (purple circuit), check the Solenoid fuse and reseat the wastegate solenoid. If you have an ohmmeter, I guess you could see if the coil in the wastegate solenoid is not open circuit by doing a resistance check.

 

For the Secondary Injector problem (red circuit), check the resistances of the secondary injectors (it's fiddly, but you can do that without removing the injectors). In the past, I have eliminated a Code 26 just by resetting the plugs on the injectors.

The other item in the circuit is the Secondary Injector Resistor. I don't know what the value is, offhand, but see if it's not open circuit: Check the resistance across pins 6 and 4 if you can identify them.

I assume your fuel pump relay is working, otherwise the fuel pump wouldn't run :)

 

Apart from the injectors themselves, all these parts are in the relay/fuse compartment behind your coolant tanks. These items can be subjected to a lot of heat, so do break down from time to time. This is probably why they were relocated in later cars. I usually keep a few spare parts on standby for this.

 

http://www.iinet.net.au/[email protected]/Lotus/EngineBayRelayBox.gif

 

Hope this helps

Cheers

Ian.

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P.S. Going through the manual, I now see there are a lot more faults which can generate Code 26 (a and b)

Cannister purge solenoid

Radiator Fan Relay

Engine Overheat relays

RPM relay

Wastgate solenoid (as well as DC)

Secondary Injectors (as well as secondary DC)

Throttle Jacking Capsule

 

 

Esprimon should help narrow down the fault (I hear)

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I get back from a work function and tried the new flywheel sensor (a Lotus part).

 

It's turns out that there are no DI Modules available according to JAE.  So I decided to go with the Flywheel Sensor first and cross my fingers.

 

Unfortunately, I believe I got a defective part.  First of all, it fit too tight but looked identical.  After it was in, the car would barely crank over and couldn't stay at idle.  Removal of this part required a lot of force.  Put the original part back in and the car started up and began idling just fine.

 

I have a suspicion that when the Lotus dealership put in my new clutch, flywheel, fork and clutch slave they dinged the flywheel sensor since it has a small divot at the end of it. 

 

Anyone have an issue with defective sensors (I know I've read about multiple ECM replacements), but not sure if this applies to sensors such as Flywheel, IAC, etc...

 

Even though this was the actual Lotus part,  I surprised at how badly the car functioned (well really not functioned) when this part was installed?

 

Thanks for any assistance as always.

Bill


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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The use of force sounds familiar. I remember having to use wet and dry sandpaper to get a new sensor to fit, although I'm not sure if it was the sensor on the flywheel (A910E6938F) that you fitted, or the speed sensor on the wheel hub (A910E6939F).

 

Were there any manufacturer markings on the new sensor?

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There were no markings on the flywheel sensor on the part.  I have new IAC sensor coming in, but I'm not sure about the getting another flywheel sensor.  JAE has one that .75 inches in diameter.  Might pull out the original out and measure it before trying again.

 

Another weird thing...

 

I do have a stray unconnected crimped wire connector.  It travels along the side of the Turbo inside a wiring harness (but branches off about 12 inches before it connects to A/C compressor.  I have a feeling it's the oil temp probe, but I can't find it.  Or it could connect to somewhere near the fuel injectors?  I've tried going through the manuals but no luck finding it there either.


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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I assume the oil temperature gauge wouldn't work if the wire was off.

Is your engine coolant temperature sensor hooked up? (i.e. the one on your engine block near the starter motor/aft of your oil filter). I guess freescan should show this somewhere.

Sorry, I'm finding it difficult to visualise the wire from your description. Does it have a colour?

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I have attached a picture of the unconnected wire in question.  It is black and yellow striped with a crimped connection on the unconnected side and plastic din type connector attached to the wiring harness.  You'll note that I have put the wire through the oil dipstick handle.  The Airbox is also removed.

 

I hope this picture comes through okay.

 

 

post-18016-0-93302200-1439735819.jpg


"I thought it was Lambo" -  Thank you very much and now it's time to educate the Exotic Less.

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I don't have access to my car today (and being an SE, it may be different). I had a quick look through the S4 wiring schematics, but couldn't find any black/yellow wires, only yellow/brown (YN) or brown/yellow (NY). e.g. One on the alternator (too far away) and one on the coolant temp sensor. According to the diagrams, though, the coolant temp sensor has two wires on it (so probably a two wire plug and not as shown in your photo).

I should have access to my car in the next few days, but hopefully someone else can come up with an answer in the meantime.

Cheers

Ian

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P.S. Did you find the coolant temp sensor? It's probably in line with the end of the wiring plug in your photo (under the plenum on the engine block, probably easier to feel than see, but there should be a wire/wires attached to it).

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I had a look at my SE today and found a yellow/black-looking wire coming from the harness as shown in your picture, Bill. It curves aft and seems to go to (I believe) the knock sensor (I stand to be corrected).

 

If you look to the left of the TPS down towards the engine block, you should see a spade connection on a sensor screwed into the engine.

 

CoolantTempSensor.jpg

 

If it is the knock sensor, then this may affect ignition timing and turbo boost (in extreme cases, engine damage may occur).

 

Unfortunately, I can't find a wiring diagram which shows the knock sensor wiring as being black/yellow.

 

Experts?

 

Cheers

Ian.

Edited by Qavion

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According to Rockauto, the Airtex/Wells 5S5036 is the same as the Airtex TPS112 (TPS 112) which is listed in the alternate parts list for Lotus' A910E961K Throttle Position Sensor. Has anyone tried this brand?

 

 

Jeez.... getting back to my car.... 

I got Freescan up and running on my newer laptop with a USB to Serial adaptor (Thanks Chris!) and tried to calibrate a new TPS (Airtex/Wells). I couldn't get the starting voltage below 0.55 volts. Nor could I get 100% at full pedal deflection. I refitted the old one, and had no problem with calibration.

I'm wondering if the new TPS's which may be based on "hall sensors"  (  http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/56067-tps-alternatives-any-ideas/?p=463969) don't have the range of the old type sensors? The old type were based on variable resistors.

 

I also fitted a new IAC (with a different pintle).

See http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/74755-air-idle-control-valve/?p=577882

The one I picked was the Airtex/Wells version with the additional beveled edge. I'm hoping this will result in better idle control.

 

Looking forward to giving the car a test run

Edited by Qavion

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