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Fuel tank


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Hi, sorry if this topic has been addressed in detail before but I must now move on to the fuel tank and fuel lines as the source of all my 2.2 stuttering/stalling troubles....I should probably have looked into this some time ago but (if it is now the problem), it was not a problem when I first ran the car !

I have a theory that using the posh petrol in particular has gradually dislodged bits from the tank interior with results that the fuel filter can`t cope with. 

I don`t know if anyone knows of appropriate replacement tanks or an appropriate tank cleaner.

Thanks

Dan  

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Hi Dan, if you're concerned about crud getting pumped from the tank to the carbs, or blocking the filter I would have thought your first option would be to disconnect the fuel pipe at the carbs and turn the ignition on.  Make sure you've got a suitable receptacle under the loose pipe cos it'll pump out at fair rate!  If there's nothing at the pipe then your next suspect is the pump or filter - both in the boot.  Can you hear the pump tick-ticking when the car's running?  And have you checked the filter?  It's a very easy job to replace it.  And I guess the next thought would be the fuel cut-off valve - these seem to have a habit of failing although from reading the forums it appears often just to be a dodgy earth.

As you know I'm only round the corner from you so I'd be happy to come and cast my equally unprofessional eye over the car if that's of any use to you!

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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Thanks Dan,  the pump ticks happily away and is a replacement for one that seemed temperamental (although still quite recent). I think the filter did get replaced too.

....and the fuel cut-off ? Might be -  I had the same problem with my Princess 2.0HLS 14 years ago ...(another wedge BTW).

Going on summer hols just now but happy to swap 2.2 experiences / problems  !   

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I recently had a power loss on my Excel shortly after the fuel tank had been out to get at the rear body/chassis bolts. I had the fuel system checked and cleaned through, including the float chambers, and have had no problems since.

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When i first put my Elite on the road a few years ago every time i went out for testing it would breakdown. Well long story short there was fairly large flakes of rust in the bottom of the tank which would block the outlet from the tank and float away when recovered home. After removing and cleaning the tank i used a large socket and a large hammer to raise the output about 3mm so its not at the very bottom of the tank. As i dont intend to run it on the fumes i dont think its a problem. Been ok for four years.

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Dan, you can clean your tank out with a kit from Frost Restorations http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-basic-car-tank-repair-kit.html

From my experience all old cars need this after 30 years, you wouldn't believe what comes out. Be prepared for a backbreaking job though, rolling the tank around many times with the solvents/sealer etc.

Even after this my Eclat still suffered a breakdown due to clogging, with a tiny piece of rubber engorged by petrol that perefrctly filled the hole in the fuel banjo. I never thought there would be anything this big in the tank and that the filters would sort everything downstream - wrong. See pic below, the Eclat banjo is on the left, my Elite one came with a fine mesh tower which meant the bottom of the tank could be 3" deep in shit and it would still work;

18344997549_2bdea26f9b_b.jpg

I don't know where you get these gauzes, idiotically I just refitted the one on the left as I couldn't find one, the suggestion of a 1" pipe upstand would have done the same trick, just be careful you don't run out of fuel as the guage might still register part full doing this!

In the garage no-one can hear you scream 

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  • Gold FFM

It was a pain in the arse on my old spitfire - easy on those - just cut a filter in on the bottom of the tank and the problems go away.....

Can't imagine it'll work on any lotus though!!!

Only here once

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  • 4 weeks later...

Back from hols now and ready to attack my 2.2 again even though just had to SORN it

I am really aching to drive it with no probs this year !

Valve clearances and fuel tank are now the priorities. ...incidentally,  how easy is it to remove the tank ?

Thanks

Dan

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Tank: not that hard to remove in an Elite.  A couple of bolts securing to body.  

Valve clearances a lot more hassle, since the shims sit under the tappets / cam followers.  You have to measure them all up, remove the whole camshaft housing, fit the shims, replace the cam sans-gasket sealant, check OK, then re-do with sealant..

I did it engine-out and it was boring enough.  Engine-in it must be a load of fun - if possible at all?  I think I'd be inclined to take the engine out to do it, frankly.

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Tank is not too bad but a fair few fiddly trim panels to remove first. The two tank bolts are also a bit of a fiddle if I recall as the nut is just out of reach for one person and bound to be covered in crud due to its position. A helping hand would be best. The rubber necks to the fuel fillers are a bit of a pain. Don't underestimate how much fuel is left in the tank even after draining! And have a plan as to where you can dump it immediately after removal as you will have a potential bomb in your arms! I lost a load down the drive and it started to dissolve the bitmacadam footpath.....whoops

In the garage no-one can hear you scream 

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To protect the tank in the future and keep the fuel system in good shape I've started to use a little 2 stroke oil in the petrol (100ml/20 litres). I saw this tip a while ago and now use it in all my cars Reasons include:

1. 2 stroke oil has a detergent effect so effectively cleans and keeps clean the carbs/injectors etc.

2. The lubricating effect helps at cold cranking and helps the fuel pump.

3. The corrosion risk with ethanol content fuels is probably reduced. I guess you wouldn't get in tank corrosion using 2 stroke oil.

Although not directly relevant, the most dramatic effect was in my Jag 2.7 diesel with 260,000 miles on the clock. It used to throw out black smoke under hard acceleration (probably a sticking egr valve); this has now stopped. I've also been using it in my 1971 Mini 1000 and the driveability has improved considerably over the last couple of thousand miles - my guess is that the oil has gradually removed deposits in the carburettor eliminating sticking which was causing hesitation on part throttle.

You need to use mineral oil - look for oil that meets the FB standard. A litre in Asda costs a fiver. I just bought 5 litres of Comma 2 stroke for around £18 on eBay, so its not expensive.

ATB Richard

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With two stroke oil having such wondrous properties I'm amazed they don't put it in all fuels at source. :lol:

No idea John - I'm just sharing my experiences in case somebody finds them useful.

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  • 3 months later...

The tank is not coming off without a fight...there are the two mounting bolts but they just turn, not loosening ! The nuts are encased. Anyone got any tips or am I missing something else that needs doing ? 

Thanks

Dan

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The nut will be encased alright, in 30 years mud and crud. Get a screwdriver prodded under the chassis box under the wheelarch and stiff brush, then a bit of penetratiing oil. It is possible to hold a spanner on the nut and a socket in the boot with lots of extensions but waaaaay easier if someone gives you a hand.

In the garage no-one can hear you scream 

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Good luck. Once you get the bolts undone you will be seeing why that production line operative was moaning to MJK on the M50 video about the stiff rubber connections to the filler necks!

In the garage no-one can hear you scream 

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