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heater blower, greasing in situ?


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A quite interesting part of owing an old car with a quite long history is discover the easter eggs of the POs :driving:

After driving a very long time with a non illuminated dash, now I have lights! :smoke: it is driving in the next dimension… sometimes the lucky feel of ownership is only based on the simple things :D

The culprit was an empty (!) rheostat :o with a crazy combination of cables behind which should made obviously a bridge for permanent illumination, but didn’t work.


Now to the next one:

The heater blower has only run on half power and I thought, it was because of the failure of one of it. The downside on this is, that the second one has to the job of both meaning… it will die very soon also :( Now the second one is making an awful noise.

Questions:

Is there a way to grease the fans in situ with the dash / fascia and/or the glove box out?

Is one of the blowers the thing in the red circle? I guess, the blues circle is the plug…

Thanks in advance
Don

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That is indeed the fan motor in the red circle and of course there's a second one on the other side. If you can get the bottom covers off - possible, but not easy - then you are still the wrong side of the system to get to the moving parts. The best you could probably do is squirt a bit of WD40 in there with a long nozzle. However if you take the entire unit out, which requires a bit of force but not much intelligence, then you can grease (or replace) the motors as well as replacing all the foam that is supposed to make the heater air-tight. And you can give the matrix a proper flush too. This is what I did and now the heater works brilliantly.

If you go this route don't do what I did though and disconnect the cables from the knobs. Leave all the mechanicals attached. You can get the whole thing out as one piece and it'll save you hours of heartbreak trying to make the cables connect up again correctly.

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Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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I'm going to say yes because I don't know otherwise.  There are two bolts that drop vertically down under a metal plate that is under the trim that goes between the dash top and the windscreen - to get this out you have to remove the de-mister vents.  I can't remember if you can get to this plate without the whole dash coming out.  Then there's two more bolts through from the air intake plenum.  If you can get these out, and if you can get to the pipes behind the radio, you might be able to force the unit out the glove box side.  But I doubt it...

 

There are so many benefits of removing the entire dash though.  You can get to everything, see everything, and fix everything then just bolt it back in.  It won't take more than a couple of hours to pull it out, and if your gauges are out anyway you're half way there...

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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All true :-) it starts with the typical phrase to then Mrs : I am in the garage for half an hour (...or two) and after 2 hours you are lying in Lotusposition under the dashboard nearly strangled by all the cables... :D

Much thanks for the advises. Will give it first a short and dirty try on the squirting solution and will see, where it ends. :)

Edited by Don.Hasi
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