free hit
counters
Turbo SE Engine Stalling - Page 2 - Engine/Ancilliaries - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Ginger pig

Turbo SE Engine Stalling

Recommended Posts

Tps is a critical adjustment - and a little low could well screw it......

It should be about 0.50v - think I set mine to 0.51v - it's got to be right - if it's wrong you get all sorts of strange issues

 

 

Sorry to hijack this thread, but after reading the manual, I'm starting to wonder if this really is so critical.

The manual says the ECU has the ability to auto zero the TPS idle throttle position (butterflies closed). According to the manual, anything below 0.9volts can be compensated for, but 0.45 to 0.65 is typical.

 

I assume that if the TPS is around 0.55 (in the middle of the 0.45~0.65 range) and Freescan shows almost 100% with the pedal floored, all will be ok. The manual uses the words "almost".

 

I might refit the new TPS I thought was faulty (it wouldn't go down to 0.5) when I get my other problems sorted.

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

On experience when mine was set wrong it was a complete twat of a car.

There was a basil fawlty scene going on in my garage with a small tree and a certain red lotus a while ago !!!


Only here once

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All,

 

Just about to change the charcoal canister.

 

What are the symptoms of an old 'past its sell by date' canister.

 

Could that contribute to my issues?

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We need to get someone to look at your Freescan log. Any takers?

 

Just about to change the charcoal canister.

 

What are the symptoms of an old 'past its sell by date' canister.

 

 

Not sure, but a faulty canister solenoid valve would cause certain problems.

 

From the manual:

 

"    If the (canister) solenoid is always open, the canister can purge to the intake manifold at all times. This can allow extra fuel at idle or during warm up which can cause rough or unstable idle, or too rich operation.

      If the solenoid is always closed, the canister can become over-loaded, resulting in fuel odour"

 

Are you getting any of these symptoms?

 

Are you getting an ECM fault code for the canister? I was just thinking, even if the ECM says the canister is ok, the ECM is probably not smart enough to know if the valve is faulty (it probably only looks at the electrical side of the solenoid).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ian,

 

Idle is rough and hesitant on acceleration.

 

I was getting a fuel smell around the drivers side fuel tank but I think that was the rubber fuel pump seal; as I replaced it and that issue seemed to have stopped.

 

No fault codes from the ECU.

 

My canister on the car is the original but the car has only done 20,000 miles from new.

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The canister doesn't last forever.  However you'll need to verify the canister purge line to the front side of the intake is not cracked, and also that the canister purge line one way check valve, up near the oil pump, is working correctly, or else the boost can feed back into the fuel tanks!  The check valve should only allow flow towards the manifold.

 

The canister symptoms might include not holding pressure in the fuel tanks, or possibly purging too much fuel vapor in the intake, causing a stall or hesitation.

  • Like 1

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Travis,

 

It sounds as though I need to try this new canister out.

 

All pipes are new silicone hoses and; therefore, should be sound.

 

Mark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It sounds as though I need to try this new canister out.

 

 

I read that purging the fuel tanks via the canister to the inlet manifold is normal once the car is warmed up and the car is not at idle. I'm just wondering how long your hesitation is lasting? If you still have the original ECU chip, then there will be a "normal" hesitation around 3~4000 rpm.

 

The check valve is external to the canister, so it might be a good idea to check this first (for orientation and proper operation) before changing the canister. The canister can be tricky to change if the car is not up on jacks or the boot floor is not removed.

 

From memory, the check valve is near the cabin bulkhead. Just follow the vacuum line attached to the inlet (about 1 foot forward of the IAC)

Edited by Qavion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when I get my car it shows something similar when blipping the throttle... it was the EBP valve not working properly. Check it out!

 

Marco

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...