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dropping sump took me 8 hours! - Engine & Ancilliaries/Gearbox - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


dropping sump took me 8 hours!


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Well that was an absolute nightmare. Another 2 hour job took all day.

To drop the sump I had to remove the exhaust manifold attached to the downpipe due to corroded nuts, but it's nigh on impossible to get at the nuts, and I have long skinny arms... took an age to do that part. Secondly.. the sump bolts and nuts.. most are ok.. but is the bulge in the sump designed to make it impossible to remove when in the car? Especially the rearmost drivers side stud.. whatthe! I had to make a tool to get at it.. as i said. Nightmare! Anyone got any tips for next time/refitting it?

I have no idea how on earth I'm going to be able to tighten the exhaust manifold...

Cheers,

Mark

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Haha. Oh dear.. that doesn't bode well..

I didn't actually remove the sump, just got it loose. The whole point of this exercise is to check/replace the bearings... now I'm concerned that the front cross member will prevent me from releasing the mains near the front.

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Yes, everything is a fiddle.  As per esprit S2, you really need to bite the bullet: take the engine out and put it on a stand.  Everything becomes much easier then.

 

When removing the engine, the preferred amateur approach varies from the manual.  Don't try and haul the engine and gearbox out together unless you have a lot of room under the car. I did it that way so I am sure I wouldn't to it that way again!   Expert opinion on the forum is that it is simplest to move the pair forward together in the engine bay, then split them, before lifting the engine out.  

 

This is not a car designed for cheap maintenance, but jobs are not that complex if you go the long-way round.

Edited by Herc
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PS I found the main bearing cap bolts needed a lot of strength to shift, and a good quality octagonal socket.  

 

If I remember correctly, a couple of the bolts are hard to get at without removing the oil strainer, which is itself a little complicated.

 

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Normally I'd take the engine out.. but theres a vw beetle restiration taking up all the space in the garage.. so i don't have my workspace.. I've come this far.. I'll see if I can get a good idea of the state of the bearings as is.. it might be a case of aborting until I have the space back.... dammit. This stuff is easy on the mustang! ;)

Edited by M.Wainwright
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Space you say?! Try pulling the engine in a single garage with a door that doesn't fully open! I lifted my lump but the hoist got stuck on the garage door, a more than few precarious moments passed while I wrestled the thing past the door nearly ripping it off the door guides in the process. That was a truly stressful moment.

20140315_125508_zps8fef8781.jpg

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Haha. My garage doesn't have walls. It's a carport and a tarpaulin.. that said.. it's a little bit wider than a usual uk garage and Is ok to work in in the summer. Irs long, but only single width.. I'd love a proper workshop.

Edited by M.Wainwright
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Well I struggle to keep mine in - it just pulls out from above. Are you sure the problem is not the oil pickup?


I found the kitchen-dining room a great place to work on the engine.  And on a stand it looks rather architectural.  

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Haha.. I managed to wrangle it out in the end.. looks like you can only do the big ends from underneath, mains are all in one carrier, which Is an engine out job for sure, that can wait.

I accidentally restored some bits and pieces, and cleaned about half a centimetre of goo and oil off the engine.. and what seems like leaves, twigs and crap from the oil strainer... what the heck.. hopefully the filtration system has been doing its job.

Edited by M.Wainwright
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I know the job to remove the exhaust manifold. Once it took me nearly 2 hours and a modified wrench to get it done. Can't see from any where so feeling in the dark is the way I first used to get it done.

 

Next time, I just took out one side (exhaust side ) bolt on the motor mount and jacked the engine to expose the manifold nuts.

 

Much easier. I wish it was in the workshop manual but it isn't.

 

Of all the cars I have ever worked on, my Elite is the most difficult but then, it is the most fun to drive as well.

 

 

Richard

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I know the job to remove the exhaust manifold. Once it took me nearly 2 hours and a modified wrench to get it done. Can't see from any where so feeling in the dark is the way I first used to get it done.

 

Next time, I just took out one side (exhaust side ) bolt on the motor mount and jacked the engine to expose the manifold nuts.

 

Much easier. I wish it was in the workshop manual but it isn't.

 

Of all the cars I have ever worked on, my Elite is the most difficult but then, it is the most fun to drive as well.

 

 

Richard

 

 

ha! what! thats genius!  yeah, should be in the manual, didnt know it`d rotate that far around, i`ll give that a shot when i put it back on! 

cheers,

 

 

Mark

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Yeah Mark, I have done that process now on other vehicles as well. Chevy box van has the same problem as the heads are a bear to remove and replace with the engine in place. Trust me on that one too. lol

 

The pros take off the whole body to pull the engine out. The only sane way to do it IMHO.

 

Richard

 

don't you just love these forums? 

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It gets worse! I've just broken the bottom off the oil pick up trying to get the sump back on! I'm screwed now.. I just can't take the engine out.

What are my options here? I can't see a way to remove the pickup from under the car.

I'm thinking.. something I can clamp where the old one was? Buy a replacement, cut the end off, mask underneath of engine and cut the end of and clamp them together?

Arghhhhg!

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From memory, to remove the whole oil pickup I think you have to take the auxiliary housing (distributor etc) off the side of the engine.  That means taking the cambelt off, of course.  

 

Under the housing is a very big socket you have to undo to get the pipe off.    It's a really big size, if I remember, so a lot of people use a locked nut on the end of bolt.  This ought to be do-able with the engine in, I would have thought.  Just take the whole airbox off, and probably the carbs too.  

 

The oil pickup is also braced on the underside somewhere, if I remember correctly.  I don't know if you can get at those nuts.

 

LotusBits for  a replacement second-hand oil pick-up.

 

You might need a new gasket for the aux housing, and a new olive for the pickup pipe.  God knows if you can do it with the engine in place. Good luck!

Edited by Herc
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What's the auxiliary housing? This engine comes apart in so many places!

So there's some kind of removable side piece? I already have the carbs off, should do the belt anyway.

I don't want to take it off though and not be able to get a new one in.

Yup, it's anchored to the mains underneath, looks like it should come off...

Cheers, I'll call lotusbits tomorrow.

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Feom the shop manual It does look like I can replace it engine in, but it says I need a "special tool" so you're saying lock a couple of nuts together/weld to something and use that like a big hex key?

Cheers,

Mark

Edited by M.Wainwright
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The auxiliary housing is a casting which has the distributor on one end, the oil pump, oil filter, and a cambelt pulley wheel on the front end to drive it all.  It is bolted on to the side of the block.  There are about 5 bolts holding it on - all different lengths.  Page 36 / Figure 23 of the Engine section of the workshop manual.  PM me if you want more details.

 

My worry would be whether you can slide the pipe down with the engine in place.  

 

Then again, your options are limited.  The only alternative I can think of would be to try to braze on a new end of the oil pick-up from underneath.  Quite tricky.

 

Re. big hex key: exactly.  no welding should be needed, just a bolt and two lock nuts of the right size did it for me.

Edited by Herc
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Hi the aux housing is the part which the distributor goes into that also incorporates the oil pump and carries the oil filter. Hope that helps. If you go on rdent.com there are parts manuals for these cars showing all the engine parts and the rest of the cars.

Hope this helps

Regards Dan

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