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Standard Chargecooler Dimensions


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Has it been done before with any noticeable results?

 

I've only noticed my chargecooler get warm when the car has been parked for a while after a drive. Some heat must be rising from the top of the engine, but I don't think much of it will be radiant heat (???), which is what magmashield is designed for.

 

If you wrap this stuff around your chargecooler and the tape backing is an insulator, you will be stopping air cooling of the chargecooler and/or the chargecooler radiating heat.

 

Do you currently have an engine-driven chargecooler pump or an electric one?

Edited by Qavion
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  • Gold FFM

When we rebuilt the engine on my previous SE, I added some heatshielding between the chargecooler and the top of the engine. I figured it couldn't hurt, but never checked if it made a difference.

 

@Cam, I wouldn't wrap the chargecooler completely, just the bottom, as that's where most of the heat from the engine will be. If I remember, I'll measure the cooler tonight.

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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Various people have insulated the cooler and coolant lines before. I think the ambient temp of the engine bay is always going to be far hotter than that of the coolant going into the chargecooler (provided the pump is working), so I can't see it getting much cooling from airflow.

The cooler doesn't sit on the engine, it's mounted slightly above it, so either a lot of heat is making it in through the two studs it sits on or there is a fair bit of radiant heat getting in.

Thanks Escape, that would be great. Maybe i'll focus on the bottom and sides.

I have an electric chargecooler

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The cooler doesn't sit on the engine, it's mounted slightly above it, so either a lot of heat is making it in through the two studs it sits on or there is a fair bit of radiant heat getting in.

 

 

I see your point. I went looking for radiant heat vs conductive heat and was reminded that there is also another type of heat. Convective heat.

 

https://www.herschel-infrared.com/heater-fundamentals/radiant-versus-convection-heat/

 

External chargecooler heating is probably a combination of all three types. Airflow in the engine bay should take away some of that convective heat. If memory serves me correctly, the chargecooler base already has a reflective (unpainted) surface which might be polished back to its original lustre.

 

I was just looking at the problem from a bang-for-buck perspective. That tape is quite expensive. I used something similar between the coolant tanks and the relay/solenoid box. However, it had a much thicker insulating layer. The original silver foil wasn't offering much protection.

 

 

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True.I'll have a look at some other materials, that's just one I stumbled across yesterday.

Not sure how much of a difference it would make, but the chargecooler gets quite warm quite quickly when the flow stops; so there must be a decent bit of energy getting in there. It's a pretty low cost mod too.

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I remembered to measure. :turned:

lxwxh = 21 x 12 (widest point) x 11 cm for the chargecooler block, front and rear connections are another 10 cm each and the mounts also sit clear of the cooler block. I think I used a 30x20cm sheet and folded both sides upwards.

The bolts fixing the chargecooler to the engine should have a rubber section in the middle, so there is no metal going through to conduct heat.

 

Ian, very interesting link! Heating systems fascinate me, as there is so much energy to be saved by making the right choices.

For the Esprit chargecooler, radiation is probably by far the most important factor. Although the plenum and intake are of course connected to the engine and will conduct heat, the rubber or silicon hoses should isolate the cooler, as will the rubber mountings. I can't see convection being an issue, as most of the hot air will be drawn out of the engine bay instead of circulating inside. But there will always be warm/hot air around the cooler, conducting heat into it. Luckily air isn't very efficient at transferring heat (something even Porsche has learned by now :getmecoat: )

 

Filip

I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Footprint of the cc is 8"x4".

Call Cam Auto Developments 01727 827717 and ask about Nimbus GII heat shield material.

 

Cirrus Glllx substrate is even better (UK eBay)

Check the performance comparison:
Cirrus G3x Heat Shield Material from Aerotech Engineering Ltd.

 

Available at DemonTweeks

Edited by MrDangerUS
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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi Guys

 

Anyone got the dimensions of the standard chargecooler? Looks like the Alunox group buy isn't happening so thinking about getting some magmashield sheet to wrap around the standard unit:

 

http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/Magmashield/c-1-143/

You can easily make your own c/cooler at a fraction of the cost ($385, parts+welding), and it will fit under the engine compartment cover!

Buy two Type 8 intercoolers from http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water-ic/compact-liquid_air-intercooler-p-209.html or CX Racing http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=AWIC15&Category_Code=AWIC

Next, cut the one side tank on each and get them welded together.

NOTE: If you want to retain the stock engine cover, don't use anything except 3.5" thick core. Thicker 4.5" cc won't fit!

IMG_1824.JPG

IMG_1825.JPG

 

IMG_2126.JPG

IMG_2136.JPG

Edited by MrDangerUS
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  • 3 months later...

The only drawback of my method is the excessive weight, but it saves tons of mula. The "ready made" cc components are made of 1/4" thick aluminum, so it weighs ~16-17 lbs.

IF you're  making your own, you can use some lither alloy gauge.

DD always required.

PS. Hamann has pretty clever lightweight dual pass chargecoolers, if you can find them at the reasonable price.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'

charge cooler upgrade 002.jpg

sportkit_01.jpg

Edited by MrDangerUS
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