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OK, when i got the car, there was a slight leak from the gearbox, but it was not dripping. However, the area around the box/seal was caked in sealant. 

Since then, I've had two new drive shaft seals put on and both leaked-the current one from around the shaft/seal rather than the box/seal.

Has anyone found a source of tighter shaft seals? I don't see the point in swapping the current one for another new one when its had two new ones already...

thanks

 

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There is a reason it is leaking so that should be determined. Either the seals aren't being installed properly, the area around the journal is damaged, the shaft has corrosion or is worn where the seal rides, or the dowel pin hole and pins aren't properly sealed with silicone. I have had to alter the depth of the seal slightly on occasion when the shaft had a slight depression worn in it where the seal lip rides. 

They can be a pain to deal with, but when everything is as it should be they work pretty well...

 

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I've stopped using the Lotus/Renault seal. I now use two generic seals, fitted separately and stacked on top of each, per side. With the outer one I also remove the coiled spring behind the lip so it does the same job as the outer lip on the Lotus/Renault one. No more leaks. The first time I tried this I only did one side. It remained dry but not the OEM seal on the other side.

Do make sure to fill the holes with silicon too before driving in the roll pins.

Edited by DanR

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I just checked my spares and have used up the coiled spring seals. The uncoiled ones are KBR 42x58x7.

My supplier found those, instead of removing the coiled spring, to be the outer dust seals. 42x58x7 is a common size so your bearing supplier will be able to provide you with either four of these and you remove the spring or two and two if he get you the uncoiled ones too. No major drama if not, just take out the spring yourself.

They need to be pressed in separately so some care is needed not to press the first one in too far. I use a Vernier to double check depth as I'm doing it.

There's one other thing to check. When you get the old ones out make sure the alloy surface is free of gouges or scratches. The smallest ones will bring on a leak. Fit the new ones with a wipe of silicon if there are gouges.

 

 

Just checked again and the full lettering on the springless seals is E8106     2    TTO    KBR 42  58 / 7

 

 

As I was putting those back I found I do have some of the spring ones left. They are TTO E818     2  TC 42  58/8

Edited by DanR

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Thanks for sharing the info Dan,  one of my seals has just started leaking again. My gearbox has now covered 130,000 miles so inevitably there is wear on the shafts. 

I tried the twin seal method on an old lawnmower engine once with success, so I had wondered if I could do the same on the car! 

 

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I just want to recommend Auto Revive of Harefield, West London.

They have an impressive history with cars (workshop full of Maserati, Ferrari, Mustang....) and have done a few jobs on my Esprit. They've replaced the oil seal, and I'll let you know if it leaks/doesn't leak....

Well worth a visit, telephone 01895 255229

 

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This is a job I need to do on my '90 Esprit as it is leaving me little 'calling cards' on the garage floor.

Do I need any special tools to press in the new seals to the correct depth? I don't want to make this an annual event so I plan to go with the double seal solution described here.

Thanks

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Hi all,

I need to change mine too. I have two original ones, but I'll go for the double solution as described.

But, I too need a Tool to drive them in accurately. Is that for sale anywhere?

Or did someone ever make a pile of them, selling to members?

I am in for such a Tool, please.

Thanks,

Jacques.

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No tool needed for the doubles. Just press each in carefully and use a vernier to check the depth as you go. Spring one in first and then the springless one on top.

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The pics I've seen of the SJ tool look like its a kind of stepped cone?

It's pretty pricey so I was thinking about turning up something in wood or maybe even plastic on my wood turning lathe. Also, I'll probably go down the 2 seal route so I could in theory turn something custom to suit exactly the final positions of each of the 4 seals as they go in.

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On 08/10/2015 at 12:48, LotuStuart said:

I just want to recommend Auto Revive of Harefield, West London.

They have an impressive history with cars (workshop full of Maserati, Ferrari, Mustang....) and have done a few jobs on my Esprit. They've replaced the oil seal, and I'll let you know if it leaks/doesn't leak....

Well worth a visit, telephone 01895 255229

 

Still not leaking-single seal, standard Lotus part.

So, Auto Revive still recommended.

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I'd be amazed if you could not use some slippy and a nicely selected socket.......

once you get the things not to leak - then in future just split the joint rather than pull this hateful setup out. 

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I'm about to do the 'double seal' thing on my drive shafts.

I'm assuming (maybe wrongly!) that the first seal goes in to the depth of the original one, then the second seal goes up against that?

Should they be 'back to back' or both facing the same way as the original?

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Not back to back so same as original. Use a vernier to know how far to push them in.

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It's a bit hit-or-miss with these. I had mine changed and then a few months later one side started leaking all over the place. Changed that side with an original seal, albeit with silicone in the pins, and it's still dry. Going strong for a while now.... 

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Looking at my 'box on th garage floor ATM, with a view to doing this.

Which set up started leaking for you Vanya, Double or single?

cheers

 

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On 11/26/2015 at 11:15, DanR said:

No tool needed for the doubles. Just press each in carefully and use a vernier to check the depth as you go. Spring one in first and then the springless one on top.

Is there a good reason why I can't leave the spring in the second seal as well?

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