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oilmagnet477

The Beast is home...Let the fun start!

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Gosh that's a lot of cash.. and you have a lot of work ahead of you as the weather gets colder. I doff my cap to you. This will be a worth while over the winter months. While your at it you will get a very good look at the rear of the chassis. You will probably need to clean up the handbrake assembly and I would expect a new bracket t hat attaches the handbrake to the chassis. These can be had off eBay.

Keep us updated and best of luck with it.

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Cheers Mike, yes it is alot more than I thought I'd spend and maybe it is a bit OTT but I'm hoping that I can do it once and forget about it for a good time to come. Could have gone down a cheaper 'standard' approach but I just wasn't happy for the sake of a few (!) quid.

Also more work than I was intending at this point but as I ultimately hope to use the car as near as possible as a daily driver, I think it will be worth it long term.

Need to do some work organising the workshop before I start in anger and am planning to concrete out the front of the workshop so I have more (comfortable) area to work - as you know, gravel is not ideal - pushing the car back over the threshold single handedly is hard work - especially with a bad back!

Will keep you all posted with progress. One thing Dave mentioned was some guidance on working with the use of the braided pipework and jig6 fittings as well as the fettling required - he did indicate that they might try and post some photos on the website - I might try and collect the gear in person if time allows.


Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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OK, so I've got rid of my old work bench and now have access 360 degrees around my Elite which is a major improvement:

IMG_4920.JPG

However, this necessitated a load of work to create a new bench in the shed extension:

imageproxy.php?img=&key=f91d8068176956b1IMG_4918.JPG

Still a work in progress but I have lights and solid work benches so just need to organise a load of 'crap that will come in handy sometime!'

To celebrate this achievement (and making the most of a friend visiting for a couple of days), this has happened:

diff.jpg

Although every nut and bolt undid quite easily, getting the diff off the lower rear studs was a proper pain and I had to resort to some cutting with the grinder but we got there in the end:

IMG_4926.JPG

so happy that some progress is being made. Will now strip this down for a clean and repaint and sort the brakes and renew bolt and bushes and do suspension as well. Once the prop shaft is out I will replace the fuel lines which is what kicked this off in the first place.

One question: There were 4 shims on each side between the diff and the suspension arm (as per photo above) - are replacement shims a standard thickness - ie will I need 8 to replace the 8 that came off?

Cheers all

 

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Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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nice workshop - i'm jealous! I had this problem with shims on the diff since I had the same problem as you in that, for a moment it was stuck, then I hit it with something that freed it off only to have all the shims drop onto the floor and roll around a bi on the process so I couldn't figure out how many I had and where.

There is a paragraph or two in the manual in the final drive section that explains why you need to add more shims - essentially to align to diff to the chassis... 

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Cheers Mike. Both sides had four shims which I have retained (although 1 has misteriously vanished in the disassembly process) so I thought about buying new shims - just not sure the ones from SJs don't look thicker?

chuffing threaded ended studs are £29 each from SJs - seems well steep!


Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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I bought some from LB and they were not that expensive, can't help with the shims. I bet the studs are rusted into the bushes on the suspension arms, these will need cutting/burning out and replacing.  Good luck!

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Prop shaft out - must be the easiest job on a Lotus :P (once the Diff is off!). I'd assumed there would be fixings at the front but it just slid out.

Sweet - on to the new brake pipes next!

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I continue to be amazed at the wonders of my car - I can't believe I got this lucky - something major MUST be lurking.

However (I will temporarily park my nervousness!):

Rear Drivers side suspension removed in less than an hour. Hub carrier bolt came out with ease :thumbsup: and the lower link was a breeze.

Bushes look in really good nick so I'm now in a bit of a quandry. Lower link ones look so good I think I will keep them as is for now. Think I'm going to replace the springs and shocks but will reconsider when I've cleaned them up a bit.

After reading everyones experiences with the seized hub carrier bolts, I'll admit to feeling a little giddy, however, now onto the passenger side.

Given that the car has now been sat in my garage for over a year - this has to be a testament to maintenance by the previous owner (although not sure that anything was done that recently as it hasn't been on the road since 99). I think I will definitely strip the suspension annually if it means it comes apart this easily!

hubcarrier DS.jpg

 

hubcarrierboltDSR.jpg

 

lowerlinkDSR.jpg

 

spingshockRDS.jpg


Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Just to make you all feel better, I've just finished getting the other side off - had to cut through the hub carrier bolt so will now need to get that removed. My cheap 30t press has already repaid the £240 cost as I've presed out the drive shaft to get the hub carrier seperated (and alot lighter), however I don't think it will touch the stud. It is an awkward shape to press.

Has anyone successfully managed to drill it out? LB have second hand ones for £30 - might be the cheapest option if I have to pay someone to sort it out. I'm planning to do the bearings whilst I've got it apart.

I was expecting both sides to be like this so I'm still ahead! Great to be making somedecent progress at last


Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Well, that's been an interesting week!

Everything is now off the underside of the rear of the car - I can lift the back by hand now!

So I have a dirty great hole now:

IMG_4946.JPG

Have been stripping every component down and determining what is salvagable and what can be re-used.

Have had to go for a S/H hub carrier from Lotusbits but the D/S is re-useable.

IMG_4943.JPG

Looks like someone before me has removed the bearing with a punch!

Need to replace most bushes but some are in remarkable nick. Shocks and springs will go back on OK, will be painting the springs and drums first.

IMG_4940.JPG

IMG_4941.JPG

Remembering to follow my late Grandfather's advice - it is amazing how quickly you forget what goes where - a few zip lock bags and a marker pen are a life saver.

IMG_4944.JPG

Everything is coming off the Diff well - just had to split the nuts holding on the bleed nipple connection. Diff looked knackered when it came off but I think it will clean up OK. Awaiting new seals for the output shafts - that should be a fun job!

IMG_4942.JPG

Needed 2 new rear wheel bearings - just a word to the wise, in 2010 they were £37 - now in excess of £80!! and getting like hens teeth. Mike Taylor is hopefully going to get a batch made which should help maintain supply even if it doesn't reduce the unit cost.


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Diff stripped, cleaned up, de-rusted with kurust and nearly ready to paint.

IMG_4948.JPG

Looks in good order internally.

IMG_4949.JPG

Level plug was a bugger to get out - would have been difficult under the car.

IMG_4950.JPG

Brake back plates have cleaned up nicely and again, ready to paint.

IMG_4947.JPG

Onwards!

 


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Lee,

Assuming you are talking main hub bearings (and not Diff output bearings) then they are SKF BA2B 417308 (Bore - 33.2mm, Dia 63.5mm and width 51mm)

Both Lotus bits and SJs have them but at a price - I can't find them anywhere else and they are supposedly getting rare - although, as I said earlier, Mike at LB may try to get some made.

Cheers

Ant


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Output shaft bearings and collars removed in tact - once I'd rigged up a jig to hold everything in place, they came off a treat in the press.

Not sure why the Lotus manual doesn't suggest this approach as standard? Seems a damn sight easier than juggling a 363 degree heated collar! I appreciate not everyone has a press handy but they're a lot easier (and safer?) to source than asbestos hands.....

Does anyone know of a reliable test for bearings? The ones I took off seem pretty good, not obvious movement (other than round and round!) and not grating noises - I suppose £60+ vat for both sides isn't worth skimping on as I don't want to be doing it again. Happy at least to have saved the cost of new collars anyway. Just trying to make every penny count.


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All good information, gives me an Idea of what to expect when I do mine.  Think you've found your bearing test, nicely seated and no rumbling.

keep up the good work.

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Roland, when you get to the rear end suspension, you'd be more than welcome to come down with everything and make use of my press (and me for that matter).

S Yorks isn't so far away from S Norfolk - I used to lived between Leeds and Bradford so can do the journey in my sleep.

Just PM me any time


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So, finally been getting oily under the car again. To be honest I've been putting off the job of fitting the new braided fuel line with AN fittings as the 'adjustments' required to the chassis have been giving me cold sweats! Not because I'm nervous or precious about it, just a real ball ache to sort out.

I have, I think started with the most difficult hole, which comes out at the front of the main central chassis next to the gearbox. What an absolute c**t (excuse my French) but it was very nearly unreachable. Excuse the fuzzy image but I couldn't get the camera in a good position! It was originally the same size as the OEM plastic fuel pipe, which is toast.

58bec1dcd123d_holelocation.jpg.a3165e46e8c92c7849cca6905c7b289f.jpg

Loads of stuff in the way. After removing various tubes and the fuel cut off valve which the PO has screwed on!!!!! (No access to unscrew - Chisel saved the day as I have a replacement with AN fittings to go back) I could get a drill in. Tried my battery powered one but it just wasn't man enough so the big SDS boy came to the party. Very tight fit but eventually got there. 7/8th diameter to allow the AN fitting through.

newhole.jpg.f64538b03fcd4112e6eb3e4c0a239779.jpg

The central baffles (for want of a better description) have half moon shaped holes at the top edge, these are bigger than the original pipe and allow the new braided pipe through. Again, sorry for the fuzz but you can just make out the hole (arrowed):

58bec3b5a0842_arsehole.jpg.45f1f9fe5f2de6ce1ea9939188c7f4c5.jpg

Having put one AN fitting on the end of the hose, I have now decided to drill out the rear hole (which is the same size as the original pipe) but should be a breeze as I can get to it easily and then feed the pipe from the front and fit the rear AN fitting once through the chassis (may be needing some help from a mate with that as 2 sets of hands and a B&D work mate will definitely make it easier). I can enlarge the hole in the boot floor easily enough once that's done.

All in all a real chore, especially laying under the car, but hopefully, once done, I can forget about it for a good long time to come.

Once this is in, I can then start putting the rear of the car back together again. Oh yes and I've got the lovely job of sealing the fuel tank with Frosts products..........

Happy days!

 

 


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Just a word about the Diff output shafts and pressing them off.

Had a conversation with Mike Taylor at LB who says that I've effectively scrapped the shafts as pressing them off removes metal and there is a very fine tolerance for the collar keeping the bearing in place and stopping the shafts coming out.

I have some spare shafts but have decided to fit new bearings and collars using Loctite 641 bearing fit. I may end up in a hedge so fully accept the risks but the fitting of collars at 363 degrees is outside of my capability and seems OTT. Mike did say that you could spot weld the back of the collar to the shaft to stop it coming off but that buggers the shafts - given that I've already done that by all accounts (and have some spares to sort properly if the need arises again) I think this one solution.

I'm not ignoring the logic or sense of what Mike says but the expense of getting the shafts sorted (£300ish) is too much for me at the moment.

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On 22/11/2016 at 18:03, biggee said:

have you got a pic , a part number off of the old bearing or any dimensions ?

Rear hub is austin maxi front.

Ive noticed they are a lot cheaper on ebay without the "L" word attached.

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Following on from my other thread about the radius arm bushes, I have today secured a major victory (at long last!)

Radius arm bushes, studs and brackets are back in place. Following the example of @Dunc, I reassembled the bush/stud/51mm washer thingy on the bench - can't see there is any other way of doing it at the properly torqued setting of 40-45 ft/lbs. I got the nuts off on the car so can only assume they were somewhat loose?

The chunk of body that I have removed allows me to get a 3/8ths socket on to the bolt (proper hex socket) so I'm going to seal the foam inner with some fibreglass filler and leave it at that - hopefully the next time someone has to replace them (?) it will be less of a ball ache. Even with the socket on it took ages to do up at 1 or 2 max ratchet clicks every time.

Managed to clean up the remote brake bleed nipple connectors on the diff so with a new bleed nipple (which thankfully I already had) these are refitted and ready to go. I just need to press the new bearings on to the output shafts, sort out the collars (one way or another) and put it all back together.

All the other suspension bits and bobs are cleaned and painted and replaced where necessary (one radius arm had a hole in it and had been previously welded in a couple of places so I replaced it with a better S/H one from LB).

I have a new handbrake bracket to fit as the last job before the diff goes back in. With the fuel line sorted (into the boot), new fuel pump installed, I just need to make up the odd bits of pipe and refurb and refit the tank.

Once the car is back on 4 wheels it will be moved to give me better access to the engine bay and then I'll set to on getting the engine firing.

Feel like some progress is finally being made!

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Good to see things are progressing. Am I the only one that works only when it's warm out? Must be my age!

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