GTK Posted March 18, 2018 Report Share Posted March 18, 2018 Fair play Ant, you picked the weather for it ^^^ helped someone do that with the strings once. Was an open wheeled car though. Would love to see it done again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted March 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 So, in spite of my meticulous intentions (!), my labelling of N/S v Off/side bits fell over when I took off the bit of yellow wire from the N/S Lower link and replaced it on the Offside one after painting! Just refitted the each lower link to the correct side so, short of torqueing everything up, which I will do when everything is back together, the diff is not going anywhere I've put the N/S Radius arm on the front fitting, which required the hole to be drilled out. This was a second hand replacement from LBs and after painting the stud wouldn't fit. I have put 2 'toe in' spacers behind the arm and 2 in front for now. I think all four were in front (ie not doing anything) when I took it apart but I will see how it goes when the car is running - it should be reasonably easy to adjust accordingly later on. I'm certainly liking a bit of warmth to get me going again but finding that I don't like getting back up again once I'm under the car! I think I'm going to have to save up for some sort of ramp. @PhilW - I'd still like to come over and see your Hamer ramp at some convenient time. Cheers All 1 Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilW Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 Ant Come whenever. PM when you is convenient. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeeech Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 I wish I had a ramp or a pit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTK Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Always thought a ramp over a pit would be useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Barrykearley Posted March 24, 2018 Gold FFM Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 It’s amazing how nice it is just to be able to get the car a foot or two off the ground. Especially for front and rear suspension works - you can do it all on a comfy seat listening the the grinder and the radio Quote Only here once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 2 hours ago, GTK said: Always thought a ramp over a pit would be useful. A M-I-L disposal unit springs to mind..........a multi-use tool! Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbie Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 (edited) Hi when you get o the distributor can you check whether you have a rev limiting rotar. My 1979 503 has a lucas rotar limited to 3500 rpm and I am not sure this is standard for an. elite . The rotar arm is easily identifiable as circular with half circle steel grounding plate marked on steel 3500 rpm. Thanks Edited March 27, 2018 by Robbie Info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted April 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2018 On 27/03/2018 at 11:50, Robbie said: Hi when you get o the distributor can you check whether you have a rev limiting rotar. My 1979 503 has a lucas rotar limited to 3500 rpm and I am not sure this is standard for an. elite . The rotar arm is easily identifiable as circular with half circle steel grounding plate marked on steel 3500 rpm. Thanks Robbie, some way off that but will have a look when it comes around. Cheers Ant Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2018 Nice shiny new bearings installed - thanks to @clivef38 for the top tip. Hub carriers in the oven for an hour at 100 deg c whilst bearings chill in the freezer. Bearings then popped straight in without the need to press or anything Was originally planning to press them in but getting/finding something to only push on the outer bearing wall was tricky. This really did work much more effectively than I'd imagined. I did wear a pair of 400 degree heat proof gloves though (very effective for only £12). Just got to grease up with high heat grease and fit seals and we are good to go! 2 Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clivef38 Posted April 14, 2018 Report Share Posted April 14, 2018 Does she who must be obayed know where the burn marks came from on her oven gloves. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted April 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2018 Clive - I waited until SWMBO wasn't in but equally she wouldn't know the oven if it landed in her lap. I do the cooking so a new pair of gloves is a regular occurrence "What these old things? I've had them for ages" Surely that ploy has to work both ways? 1 Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Monument Posted April 15, 2018 Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 17 hours ago, oilmagnet477 said: "What these old things? I've had them for ages" Surely that ploy has to work both ways? I started to use this with Cars... it wasn’t working. So I have gone down it’s an investment route ... that’s wearing thin to. 😏 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted April 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 30 minutes ago, Stuart Monument said: I started to use this with Cars... it wasn’t working. So I have gone down it’s an investment route ... that’s wearing thin to. 😏 Lol - think I might once have got away with " At least I won't lose money on it" - that didn't work either. As yet the ONLY bulletproof reasoning I have come up with is: "It's for Tom" - absolutely fail safe! Just wait till Lucy wants a car ........... Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dblakem1 Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 'What ? No, no, no - it's not mine', 'it's Bruces, he's just leaving it here for a while, whilst he moves house'. 'Yes, I might do a few jobs on it for him, whilst it's here - he's a mate'. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 Just don't tell her.... make it a black ops project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom kilner Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 It's cheaper than those 0898 numbers, by the minute at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted May 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2019 Well, inspired by you lot, I finally got out in the shed this morning to continue with the battle of refitting the rear diff/suspension/brake set up. Really wish I hadn't bothered! So far, I've got the diff back in and fitted the drivers side suspension and hub carrier. The brake drum is quite noisy rotating on the new brakes but goes round until - that is until I tighten the drive shaft nuts and then everything seizes up. I've had the drum off countless times and cleaned everything up and all the brake shoes are new and the brake cylinders refurbed. The brake adjuster is adjusted to be as small as possible and I'm pretty sure it all went back together as per the manual. The opposite side drum doesn't look any different and I'm confident that I haven't swapped them (can't see it would make so much difference anyway). When the drum sits against the flange of the diff output shaft there is plenty of clearance between the outer shoe edge and the back of the drum so it can't be that binding. So I'm now somewhat stuck (and very fed up!). Could be heading for a fire sale! If anyone has any ideas or has had similar issues - I'd be most appreciative. Thanks..... Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EXCEL V8 Posted May 19, 2019 Report Share Posted May 19, 2019 If you rotate the drum as you tighten it it may leave some witness marks that may be diagnostic - maybe colour the braking face of the drum with a felt marker pen as well. Are the brake shoes the correct width? Are the drums new? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted May 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2019 Pete - thanks - the drums are the originals. I am having to rotate the shaft/drum to get on to the nuts as I tighten - it just gets really tight (so it won't move) as I do them all up. The shoes were supplied from either SJs or LB (can't remember) but the diff output shaft extends beyond the outside line of the shoe so I can't see how the rear (inner) face of the drum is causing a problem. I'll see if I can use some sort of marker but just thought I'd try the near side first (as they should be the same with regards to my re-assembly). Just tried to set up the near side to see if that is doing the same, only to find I'm missing the lower shock to hub carrier bolt - had to cut the old one out but thought I'd bought everything I need (unless I've lost it!) Near £6 delivery on a £3 part seems like a rip off to me! Ho hum Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom kilner Posted May 19, 2019 Report Share Posted May 19, 2019 If you get a few washers you could tighten the drum onto the diff output shaft without the drive shaft in the way. You could tighten the bolts down evenly and see where the problem is. I wonder if you get to the point of it seizing up, then back off again and rotate the drum, you could see if the drum is going squint as you tighten down. This would cause it to jam and could easily be unnoticeable with the driveshaft in the way if you can't spin the drum. The output shaft might have a nick in out catching the inner flange of the drum. As for the postage and packing though, most suppliers charge the same by weight whatever the value - the courier cost and handling is pretty similar. you're more likely to get free carriage on gold plated wheel nuts than a single h.t. bolt 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted May 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2019 Thanks Tom - good thinking, just wish the tolerances weren't so 'intolerable'!! However great Colin Chapman was as a designer, he clearly had a better eye for delivering immediate performance over delivering 'liveability'!! Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clivef38 Posted May 21, 2019 Report Share Posted May 21, 2019 Hi Ant. I'm on holiday for a week or so i can come over and have a look as i have done my diff and brakes. I will give you call when i get back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilmagnet477 Posted May 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2019 Clive - that would be amazing. I really want to get the back end sorted so I can move forward. Getting seriously bored now! Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you 😀 Quote Is the price for that bit in Yen or £? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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