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Jacking an S3 Esprit - time tested procedure?


hepkat63

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HI All,

I just took my car down to the garage to get the inspection done (to transfer registration into my name) and they had absolutely no idea how to jack up the car without damaging it.  In the end, they just put it on the four poster wheel alignment hoist (on ramps).  I have so far only jacked up the rear of the car (i used the cross brace) and it seemed ok - however, it got me thinking some more and I (yes...) read the manual.   It shows four jacking points, but to be honest, I am not sure if they seem strong enough.  Being a fibrerglass car, I think the potential for things to go ugly very quickly are high.   I read a similar thread on there about jacking an S1 Esprit - are the S3 (1982) the same?  Or is there a better procedure?

The reason I ask too is that I am about to take all four wheels off to send them away to be redone and will need to support the car on four jack stands.   I have (from my VERY low Porsche 911 days) an excellent low profile jack and ESCO jackstands - so they are all good kit, just need the right place to put them !

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Technically you can jack (using suitable pads) under the fiberglass but I prefer to jack under certain parts of the metal subframe.  I tend to use the very ends of the rear lower link (where it's the bush inside), or the inner end (either the bush or the frame between the bushes). For the fronts I use the inner end of the lower link where there's the bush or if you have to use the subframe then spread the load with a decent bit of time across the whole flat surface. 

The real NO-NOs are the edge of the subframe where it's welded, or any part of the lower links other than where there's a bush to stop it deforming.

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I have always jacked mine using the junction of the chassis tubes at the back in the centre of the car, raises both side at once...don't whatever you do try to jack it in the middle of the lower link, they bend like bananas....tyre shops are prone to this...(!) At the front I use the vertical square tube where the anti roll bar clamps are, one each side.  Never had any problems doing this, in 28 years of ownership.

For putting it on stands, I use the lower chassis tubes towards the front of the engine, and the lower link on the front suspension as inboard as I can get the stand.

 

(Don't forget to loosen the wheelbolts before you get the wheels off the ground....!!)

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Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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thanks for that - I know where you mean on the back, as I have recently jacked up the car in that exact same spot.  The front, not so sure - have to have another look.  I want to however, remove all four wheels and support the car on four ESCO jack stands (the ones with the four inch rubber tops).  What is the best for this please?  I note that when I jack up the back of the car, the wheels go inwards, so putting jack stands under there means that they would move when I lowered the car again.  Can I support the car on the chassis tubes?   Do you have any pictures please?  My mind works better when I can actually see a photo - sorry, but being brand new to these cars, I want to try and minimise any silly mistakes (made heaps when I had my 911, so don't want to repeat the process). :)

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I was going to say bust the drivers window, get in, bypass ignition, drive like there is no tomorrow. :driving:

Though this is not something that I have done ( :busted cop: ) and is not the topic in discussion. :offtopic: 

Fits with the title though. :) 

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.

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All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit.

Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others.

For forum issues, please contact one of the Moderators. (I'm not one of the elves anymore, but I'll leave the link here)

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THe LEW guide is OK as far as it goes. I usually end up with the axle stands at the front on the lower suspension link rather than the chassis itself...the chassis is sheet steel and not very thick gauge, and can get dented by using it for stands or jacking...so I put the stands on the lower link, as close to the chassis pivot point as they will go. At the rear, I use the lower main chassis tubes, near the joints where they join the pressed steel chassis. This leaves all four wheels dangling and you can get at everything. For jacking, if you look at the front of the car from the side, you should see the square section tubes I spoke about, in front of the wheels ....  they are vertical and the anti roll bar clamps to them and there is a stay bar to the radiator ducting.

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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At the front I always jack it under the main chassis crossmember using a piece of wood on top of the jack. I usually use two jacks, one each side, on each end of the crossmember. No need for axle stands as one jack would easily support the weight if something happened and the jacks are much more stable than axle stands.

At the rear, I jack under the V junction of the chassis tubes by the gearbox mounts then axle stands on each chassis tube at the sides but leave the jack actually supporting the weight and the axle stands for backup only.

 

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thanks Guys, very much appreciated !  - will get onto this and post some photos to help the next person (why is there such a lack of photos on this forum?  Used to the Rennlist Porsche forum where nearly every post has a photo !) :)

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11 hours ago, hepkat63 said:

thanks Guys, very much appreciated !  - will get onto this and post some photos to help the next person (why is there such a lack of photos on this forum?  Used to the Rennlist Porsche forum where nearly every post has a photo !) :)

Noticed that too. The other forum I follow (Ferrarichat) has masses of pictures. More please :)

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Is there a correlation between proportion of carburetor-controlled cars and lack of desire to use smart phones to upload pics? 

Need more data, perhaps we should start looking at fora for Model T, horse-drawn carridges etc.

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Is there any problem with jacking the rear using the area of the oil drain plug on the gearbox? 

I've done it for years, on the S2, the 89 Turbo and now on my S1. It seems the logical spot to me and so far it's never caused any problems.

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It wouldn't be my idea of a good place to jack it, but I suppose that if the load is spread evenly to the cast ali it's not horrendous. Any damage to that casting could lead to failure and an expensive repair/replacement search. I'd suggest the bottom of the hoop (if central support is needed), or the very end of the bottom link, where it's a tube filled with a bush

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I jack my S1 using the U shaped channel underneath the gearbox with a piece of wood to spread the load. I then put an axle stand on either end of the wood.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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7 hours ago, RedEspritS2 said:

Is there any problem with jacking the rear using the area of the oil drain plug on the gearbox? 

I've done it for years, on the S2, the 89 Turbo and now on my S1. It seems the logical spot to me and so far it's never caused any problems.

I am assuming you dont mean the actual gearbox casing, but the chassis in that area?

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