Which Jack or Ramp?

[Roy Lewington]

Just finished my winter jobs ---new rear shocks, lower steering UJ, new accelerator cable (inner & outer).  The cable wasn't much fun as the original had been laid along the centre tunnel and then the sound proofing stuck over the top!  Anyway, I am getting pretty fed up scrabbling about on the floor on my knees and back so the question is: 'How do you raise and support your car'.  I have made a pad for  my trolley jack for use on the side jacking points which works OK.  The front is not so much of a problem as there are chassis cross members you can get to. The rear I find a problem.  With a trolley jack under the centre of the chassis it still only gets the wheels a couple of inches off the ground.  Getting it high enough to lower the wheels onto a couple of ramps involves lots of tedious blocks/jacking/more blocks/more jacking etc,   Anyone tried rachet straps to keep the rear suspension compressed and stop the wheels from drooping?  So, how does everyone else manage?

I like the look of the low level ramps that you can wind up. CJ Autos now do a hydraulic version operated by a foot lever.  Anyone used these?

The display ramps look like good clearance but I wouldn't fancy driving up them unless they were secured to the floor.  Some sort of easy release so they could be moved and stored when not in use? Would need a lead in low level entry ramp or plank.

The one wheel lift if used for any length of time would probably twist the chassis and wouldn't do any of the tyres any favours.

The scissor lift looks Ok but I guess it would need a nice strong level floor at least 4 inches thick.

So how are you all managing?  Any suggestions welcome. Cheers Roy.

[andydclements]

I use a pair of display ramps, it's a bit un-nerving as you drive up beyond the tipping point, but that's nothing compared to driving off and one/ both of the hinged bits gets snagged on the concrete and you either go forward again an put something beneath it to slip more easily or try going back further and hoping that one side doesn't give before the other. I can get on them with the Esprit as I have a two-level floor but the Esprit will not drive up the natural inclination of those ramps, so you'd have to put blocks beneath the front.

I don't mind them, but as I say, a bit un-nerving.

 

Also worth considering levo-artis, I purchased Dave Freeman's old set, not as high but easier to get the vehicle on, and can be stored away.

[Escape]

I used to have access to both 4-post and 2-post lifts, which made life so much easier... Hope to have some again by the end of this year.

In the mean time I make do with a jack and axle stands. If you put the axle stand under the chassis at the rear, you don't need to jack so high. The low-level wind-up ramps seem like a good solution as well, especially for occasional use in a normal garage. Our new house has a grease pit in the garage, as soon as I manage to clear the stuff on top I'll give that a try.

[robington]

I have a pair of the hydraulic ramps from cj autos and get on well with them.  They get the car up a fair bit and always feel safe and stable. Rather than drive on to them I jack the car and slide the ramps under which is a bit of a faff at the front,  but it works for me.

[Chillidoggy]

Hydraulic scissor lift for me, perfect for my requirements.

[march]

As with Ian - Hydraulic scissor lift, with some planks so I can drive over the ramp - works perfectly for me.

[Advantage]

Either:

 

or:

 

Both come in handy for me.  

[markw996]

I have the manual 'screw' CJ Autos ramps and the extenders too, they are pretty good if a little expensive.

I still have to drive the Esprit onto small blocks of wood before I position the ramps though.

Changing the subject a little, did you find changing the rear dampers a simple job?
I have to do it on my S4 next week, and although I've read up about it I thought I would ask

[jcslocum]

I'm in the USA and have a 2 post lift made by Danmar; MaxJax. It workrs great and it is portable BUT it only lifts to 4' high. It meant for the hobbyist and a lower home garage.

 

The scissor lift is also excellent for hime work and is much more tolerant of the floor. They can be used on a solid gravel driveway that is flat and level. They are the best option if you have no work in the mid section as they can be blocking that area up a bit. Great for wheel and suspension work, not so goof for exhaust say on a normal car.  A buddy has a 4 poster  drive on lift and that is also really good. It has a jack unit that can slide in the center to lift one end of the car or the other for taking the wheels off. A car can be parked under it and it can be moved around quite easily with the special casters that it came with. Like a scissor lift, it doesn't need to be bolted down.

 

That's my daughter welding on our Mini project. The maxjax post is to the right.

 

The cost for a 2 post Maxjax is about $2200, 4 post $1900 and a scissor is about $1000 here in the USA. They also show up on Craigslist used, like your Gumtrtee.

Whatever one you get, you will LOVE it!!

[Roy Lewington]

OK, thanks for the input.  I am off to the  NEC Restoration Show next weekend so they may have some special offers, we shall see.

Jon, your daughter is the sort of person I could fall in love with, not the 'You spend so much time in the garage you may as well have your bed out there' type (ie the wife).

Mark, rear shocks.   Not a bad job.  You need to get the spring compressors on whilst they are on the car, all a bit tense so I hope you have some that fit. Make a note of where they are positioned as you need to duplicate this when you put them back.  In certain positions you won't be able to release them.  I had to do some work to make sure that when they are replaced the top-hat type metal washers that cover the rubber washers align exactly with the hole in the top of the chassis.   I ended up with a tourniquet type strap device to pull them sideways into position. Cheers Roy.

 

 

[rocket63]

On 2/26/2016 at 07:02, markw996 said:

I have the manual 'screw' CJ Autos ramps and the extenders too, they are pretty good if a little expensive.

I still have to drive the Esprit onto small blocks of wood before I position the ramps though.

Changing the subject a little, did you find changing the rear dampers a simple job?
I have to do it on my S4 next week, and although I've read up about it I thought I would ask

Simple job yes.

[jcslocum]

Roy,

 

allie is a real gear head. Out of 4 daughters who can all do car stuff, she is the real car girl deal. Mig, Tig, gas welding as well as spinning wrenches. She's building her own 911 hot rod with a 3.4, twin plug motor.  She is building the motor from the crank up. She also has a masters in forensic psychology and profiles for the FBI.

 

She will weld up a custom exhaust for the Esprit. 

[molemot]

10 hours ago, jcslocum said:

Roy,

 

allie is a real gear head. Out of 4 daughters who can all do car stuff, she is the real car girl deal. Mig, Tig, gas welding as well as spinning wrenches. She's building her own 911 hot rod with a 3.4, twin plug motor.  She is building the motor from the crank up. She also has a masters in forensic psychology and profiles for the FBI.

 

She will weld up a custom exhaust for the Esprit. 

She's a better man then I am, Gunga Din.....(!) ( To misquote Kipling...)

[jcslocum]

Haha!!

 

I'm a proud Dad and will brag a little bit more. Some pics of Allie working on the 3.4: