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I mean radiator drain cock.

Has anyone fitted one? I have my coolant drained at the moment owing to aluminium pipe pinhole misery and its impossible to get to the thoughtfully provided but useless drain plug. So it means pulling off a hose and coolant going all over the place.

It would be nice if a drain tap could be fitted somewhere to attach a hose to drain the coolant into the drain a suitable receptacle for responsible disposal.

Ideally something which screws into the drain plug hole but extends past the fan cowling etc would be good. Anyone done anything like this?

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Best place would be the side of the radiator as it would also be the lowest within the coolant system. but in all fairness i personally think it would be no different 

than pulling of the bottom radiator hose !   if you just pull back the hose at angle you can get a steady controlled pour, its when people pull the whole pipe off in one go it goes everywhere.   I hate changing the coolant on the esprit but i think either way you are always going to get spilt coolant unless you make a drip tray the size of the garage floor lol.    Also less outlets in my mind means less chance of something else that could leak. :P

However a god option but expensive for a road car would be those dry coupling coolant connectors, very expensive but would keep all the coolant in the long chassis pipes and radiator when doing repairs.... bit of an overkill though :P

 

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I take out the otter switch..that drains it quite nicely. Always use cable ties in addition to the bit of bent tin to hold it in, as well....

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I am not the only one with a cable tied otter switch then. :P  Still cant believe they relied on the clip that looks like it was cut from a coke can.:o

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There was no clip at all on the Europa and they used to blow out all the time, so the factory issued a service bulletin to wire them in like a Champagne cork. Then when they blew out they really did go! 

 

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The otter switch blowing out saved me from a speedtrap once....it had gone POP in clouds of coolant and steam. I stopped and put it back in....added water from my 5litre container..and interrupted my trip to work by pestering my brother for some cable ties. I had been taking this route in a ...er....spirited fashion... for some while. This time I was pottering along at about 25mph; went around a corner and the waiting PC pointed his speed gun at me with great relish. What a disappointment I must have been!! I still think the trap had been set for me, personally..... well done, old girl, saved my neck again....

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On 2016/3/14 at 01:54, Andyww said:

There was no clip at all on the Europa and they used to blow out all the time, so the factory issued a service bulletin to wire them in like a Champagne cork. Then when they blew out they really did go! 

 

Mr Chapmans weight saving at its best bless him :)

3 hours ago, molemot said:

The otter switch blowing out saved me from a speedtrap once....it had gone POP in clouds of coolant and steam. I stopped and put it back in....added water from my 5litre container..and interrupted my trip to work by pestering my brother for some cable ties. I had been taking this route in a ...er....spirited fashion... for some while. This time I was pottering along at about 25mph; went around a corner and the waiting PC pointed his speed gun at me with great relish. What a disappointment I must have been!! I still think the trap had been set for me, personally..... well done, old girl, saved my neck again....

Its because its a bond car, but it dropped coolant instead of oil to stop you in your tracks before hitting the speed trap, thank Q branch not the car. :P

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On 14/03/2016 at 14:01, silverfrost said:

I am not the only one with a cable tied otter switch then. :P  Still cant believe they relied on the clip that looks like it was cut from a coke can.:o

I use 2 bits of stainless steel locking wire. The bloody car will explode before it blows that out..

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1 hour ago, Paul Coleman said:

I use 2 bits of stainless steel locking wire. The bloody car will explode before it blows that out..

I will change the Cable ties to your stainless locking wire idea, it has held  well on the cable ties but think the wire is a safer option :)

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Cable ties work just as well in this application. If using wire, make sure it can't short circuit the connections....

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Mine wont come out as I have replaced it with a threaded one and a machined adaptor as pictured.. The original curved pipe was corroded beyond repair so I replaced it with this plus silicone hoses. A better solution for much less cost.

On the subject of draining, I found there is masses of coolant left in the system if its drained only via the top hose. I took the drain plug out and ordered some bits to make it more accessible, ie a 1/8 BSP hose adaptor which will screw into the drain plug hole, a hose elbow will join to a female hose adaptor which the drain plug will screw into. 

I have found every alloy pipe on the car is beyond repair except (thankfully) for the chassis backbone pipes. Some of these pipes can be replaced with off the shelf such as joiners, but I have had to order some original, not cheap.

DSCN1655.JPG

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15 hours ago, Andyww said:

Mine wont come out as I have replaced it with a threaded one and a machined adaptor as pictured.. The original curved pipe was corroded beyond repair so I replaced it with this plus silicone hoses. A better solution for much less cost.

On the subject of draining, I found there is masses of coolant left in the system if its drained only via the top hose. I took the drain plug out and ordered some bits to make it more accessible, ie a 1/8 BSP hose adaptor which will screw into the drain plug hole, a hose elbow will join to a female hose adaptor which the drain plug will screw into. 

I have found every alloy pipe on the car is beyond repair except (thankfully) for the chassis backbone pipes. Some of these pipes can be replaced with off the shelf such as joiners, but I have had to order some original, not cheap.

DSCN1655.JPG

Good conversion Andy,  Its nice to get those old hoses and pitted alloy pipes replaces with silicone :)

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This was the original pipe. I started to repair some of the pipes using aluminium brazing rods. This worked quite well but in the end I realised I was fighting a losing battle. Areas which looked to have only surface corrosion once poked with a scriber simply went right through into holes. The whole system was being held together by corrosion.

My father who worked as a corrosion protection specialist (N Sea oil rigs etc) explained that the interaction of the rubber hoses, moisture and alloy would be expected to cause this problem regardless of usage of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant. They go through from the outside.

DSCN1656.JPG

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