Trolley jack recommendations for S2

[Dixie237]

Hey all,

as per subject title.  Which jack are you using that fits easily under the front for chassis access? I have been looking at this, low saddle of 85mm, but I'm wondering if the main body height of the jack will pass under the front valence/spoiler/radiator?

cheers

Dean

 

[mdw]

Drive the front wheels on to 2 half scaffold boards before jacking  makes it easier to get the jack under.

[Dixie237]

Top tip, makes sense. Which jack do you use Malcolm?

[Daniel]

On 25/03/2016 at 11:29, Dixie237 said:

Hey all,

as per subject title.  Which jack are you using that fits easily under the front for chassis access? I have been looking at this, low saddle of 85mm, but I'm wondering if the main body height of the jack will pass under the front valence/spoiler/radiator?

cheers

Dean

 

I use that to raise my S2 up enough to get a long arm jack under as it doesn't lift high enough to get decent clearance for meaningful work space under the car. Or, as others have suggested, simply drive on to scaffolding planks to raise enough to get a long arm jack under.

With a long arm jack, I can get both ends high enough to be at the highest settings on my axle stands.

 

[Dixie237]

Hi Daniel,

that's good info thank you. So you find the Clarkes 385mm max height is not enough? Once you've raised one end and put on axle stands, what's your strategy for the other end of the car?

cheers

Dean

[Daniel]

I have this:

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/ctj2glc-2-tonne-hd-high-lift-trolley-ja/

But as you'll know, it won't fit under the front or rear cross members. I had one of those low Clarke jacks anyway so I start by using that to jack the rear a little from the side of the cross member to allow me to get the bigger jack in with a decent timber spreader as I don't want to point load the centre of the cross member.

Once I've got the rear up in the air and I've dropped it on to stands positioned on the corners of the rear frame, I do the same with the front.... low jack to start, then big jack with a long spreader and axle stands.

Takes me less than 5 minutes to get it up in the air..... I'm a fairly robust chap and I find that  have plenty of room to work on the car using this method. 

[Dixie237]

Many thanks for taking the time to reply. Much appreciated.

 

[The Pits]

Can anyone show me the best parts of the car to place the axle stands under please?

Not quite sure where to put them. 

[Daniel]

Looking under the car, to the rear you'll see the flat plate at the widest point of the chassis - place axle stands each side there.

at the front, you'll see the crossmember, using a decent timber spreader (point loading a jack will damage the chassis) at the centre of the cross member, raise the car and place axle stands to each end of the cross member.

 

[The Pits]

Thanks. My first go at this. Might post up a pic for those in the know to have a look at before I crawl underneath!

[Dixie237]

Good luck Jonny,

I'm heading for my first "lift" soon. I'm replacing the seat earth straps.

re comments above about driving onto planks to get the extra height to get the jack under, I bought these. 80mm lift.

I'll post pics of my jack and axle stand positions. Wont be for another week or so tho.

 

[Jacques]

I have a similar Jack. But I have noticed that some brands of this type of Jack, is highly imprecise, and won't raise the arm as soon as you move the raiding handle, but more like half of the way. That Means you cannot Work propperly in cramped Spaces, like my garage for example. Just thought it was worth mentioning, before you go out and buy one. So, it Means that there should be non or very Little airgap between the sprung pistons and the pressure plate above it (or them, in case of two), so you have immediate action.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

[Dixie237]

Good info Jacques. Thank you.

Dean

[Andyww]

On 10/05/2016 at 07:46, Daniel said:

Looking under the car, to the rear you'll see the flat plate at the widest point of the chassis - place axle stands each side there.

 

 

That cant be done on the Turbo without removing the undertray which is a bit of a faff if you dont need to get into that area. The jacking can be done under the V shaped cradle which runs under the rear of the gearbox.

If changing a wheel etc, only need to jack under the front crossmember in the middle or the rear V shape and no other support is needed. If going under, axle stands can be added as a failsafe.

[Dixie237]

Update on my trolley jack purchase. I bought the Sealey RJAS2500 in the end, a pair of Draper 54721 axle stands and the low raise ramps to give me an 80mm head start on clearance. I've only raised the front so far to replace the seat to chassis earth straps when I put the seats back in after an interior refresh.

pics below if it helps anyone searching for lifting tips. As always, thanks for earlier replis and adivice..

Dean