free hit
Sticking Brake Pads - Elise / Exige Chat - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


Sticking Brake Pads


Recommended Posts

I took my S1 Elise in to have new rear brake pads fitted on Tuesday, 5th April at Bell & Colvill in Surrey. Driving back home there was no problem. Using it again on Friday I noticed that the car wasn't accelerating, but the problem was fleeting. Taking it out again on Saturday there was no mistaking the fact that the brake pads are sticking. It's like I'm depressing the brakes and the accelerator pedal at the same time. It was so bad that the car ground to a halt despite not touching the pedals. Obviously I have to take the car back again (if I can struggle there) but I'd like to be armed, if possible, with some advice. Although I might be told that I now need yet more work done (the expense seems never ending) It seems too much of a coincidence that braking was fine before I had the new pads fitted. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
  • Replies 4
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Could be many things with out looking at the car myself, First of all you need to confirm that he brakes are sticking, I know you say they are but it will be good to check and confirm this.  Jack the car up on the rear end one side at a time. Make you sure you have the front wheels chocked <or however you spell it >:P  Then let the handbrake off.  With just the one side jacked up on the rear try and turn the wheel by hand is it grabbing ?   Any noise of any kind ?. If not repeat the same on the other side.   

It may be just one side which could be a seized brake calliper or the handbrake sticking, Sometimes when a piston is pushed back during the procedure of fitting brake pads, as the piston has been in the same postion for a good few years it can stick, or the handbrake mechanism can stick.  Or sometimes if the area where the pad sits has not been cleaned can cause a pad to stick, same as if sliders are siezed so the brake calliper cant return to its resting postion.  

Like i said without seeing it could be many things, but look forward to seeing what it turns out to be and hope you get it sorted :)



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't believe in coincidences. If was not happening before the pads were changed, then 90% it's the pads.

I have found that some of the new self adhesive rattle/ squeal, shims don't leave enough free movement for the pads to completely release.

Had the problem on the Esprit. Peeled the shims back off, problem gone.

Life is like a sewer, what you get out of it, depends on what you put into it. (Tom Leahrer)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your replies. Unfortunately I don’t have anything with which to jack-up the rear wheels, but there is no noise that I can hear when driving. I took it for a short run and then checked the heat from each wheel. The rear nearside was very hot. Moreover the copper grease, so evident on the offside, has dried up.


I don’t believe in coincidence either. The brakes were fine until I had the rear pads replaced. Now the nearside brake pad is sticking to the rotor (I assume) and the car hardly moves at times. The level of sluggishness, however, is intermittent.


When the pads were replaced there was no report that the shims are corroded or the brake hose was worn but something is causing the calliper to seize. I spent a lot of time today researching the likely cause of sticking after new brake pads have been fitted. Many cases refer to mechanics accidentally damaging or twisting the rubber boot around the piston or those around the brake caliper bolts. Perhaps this is the problem, but further investigation from a mechanic is necessary.


The garage is about ten miles away. Is it safe enough, if I drive slowly, to make the journey? Or am I likely to cause damage?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul ten miles is ten miles,  Is it safe ?  not my place to say regarding this, but i personally would phone the garage and ask then to collect the car on a trailer.  But be well aware that if the problem does sit as the garages fault you will probably have to pay for the collection and repair work.  This again could be a complex area but could also turn out they admit fault and repair and no harm done.

Regarding the driving 10 miles can build up a hell of a lot of heat, if you say the car is struggling to move the n/s/r will be well locked on by the sound of it,  All this heat will do your car no good as heat transfer could damage stuff and its extra strain on components outside normal operating condtions. Just my 2 pence, i am sure the members will chip in also. 

Good luck and just get on the phone and explain the situation and say you are not happy to drive it and go from there :)

Meant to say if the problem does sit at the garages fault in my reply above but the crappy edit thing in posts is not working :X:angry:


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to enhance your browsing experience, serve personalized ads or content, and analyze our traffic. By clicking " I Accept ", you consent to our use of cookies. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.