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This questions seems too rediculous to ask, but I need suggestions!

I have at last turned attentions to the 1990 NA I am putting back on the road. I went into the garage this morning with the intention of fitting new calipers to the front. One side, no problem, infact the caliper had only just been replaced by the previous owner, so just put the wheel back on. The other side, wheel won't rotate at all the caliper is so seized and to make matters worse, I can not get the wheel off for! Now I know why he didn't get around to changing this side as well!

Its been drifted from the inside with a stout block of wood and a very heavy hammer until the wood turned to chippings. I have removed the wheel centre (now in bits) and soaked with WD40 and retuned 4 hours later. Still the wheel won't budge even with very aggressive 'encouragement'.

Before I set about making a special tool to act as a puller (pushing the wheel off aganst the axel spindle), has any one got any experience of the same issue and come up with a 'cunning plan' that actually worked?

Also, any replaced a steering rack with the radiator tray still in place? Is there enough access to do the job or must the rad tray assy come out (this is the way I've done it before).?

Cheers chaps

Malc Holmes

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Thanks Yasuo,

It may come to using the blow torch, but that would definitlky damage the paint on the wheel and possibly the tyre and hub oil seals as well, all of which seem to be fine.

I am pretty sure a heavy duty puller would do the job, but if would be several hours work to make such a device. Maybe its time to take this approach before I do any damage.

Malc

www.espritism.com

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Guest rflowers

I read somewhere but have never tried it... If the car is drivable you might try loosening the lug nuts JUST a little and drive it in a tight circle to break it free from the hub.

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I read somewhere but have never tried it... If the car is drivable you might try loosening the lug nuts JUST a little and drive it in a tight circle to break it free from the hub.

Sounds Like it could just work, BUT the car is declaed off road at the moment, the closest place open enough to drive in circles (supermarket) is about 3 miles away and of course the caliper is so seized that the wheel is more dragged rather than turned while driving.

This is one of those frustratingly stupid problems that drives you mad!

Malc

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Sounds Like it could just work, BUT the car is declaed off road at the moment, the closest place open enough to drive in circles (supermarket) is about 3 miles away and of course the caliper is so seized that the wheel is more dragged rather than turned while driving.

This is one of those frustratingly stupid problems that drives you mad!

Malc

Hi Malc,

I once had this with an MG Metro, where it had 'welded' its-self to the hub.

The wheel nuts/bolts were the sleeved variety, but I loosened them and then accelerated, then braked heavily and then the same in reverse. It did come away but not straight away.

Best of luck

Glyn

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Had that problem on one of my fronts.

Buggered if I could get it off. Wheel was removed at the next service, and I'm sure he just used brute force - rubber mallet attacking it from the inside.

Now all my wheels get a generous coating of copper grease so that it does'nt happen again.

Simon  (94 S4)      My Esprit will be for sale in late 2017

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This happened on my BMW a couple of weeks ago, at 10.30pm 50 miles from home with a flat tyre!

I used a nearby fence post, hit it very hard from the inside. Not recommended but perhaps plusgas might help a little more than WD40?

88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Thanks for the ideas guys,

Yassuo, thought of this one, but need to get the domed hub cap off first before getting to the spindle nut to release the hub. Also not sure if there is any way to get the (seized solid) caliper out of the way to allow the disk to come away with the hub.

Simon, let me go and check the wheel bolts just one more time!

S4 Simon, Rubber mallet failed miserably, as did lump hammer (with block of wood to prevent wheel damage).

Keep the ideas coming!

Malc

This happened on my BMW a couple of weeks ago, at 10.30pm 50 miles from home with a flat tyre!

I used a nearby fence post, hit it very hard from the inside. Not recommended but perhaps plusgas might help a little more than WD40?

Bibs,

I too dislike BMW's, but rarely take fence posts to them. May get myself a can of plusgas tomorrow though!

Cheers

Malc

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If you don't want to drive the car with the wheelnuts loosened slightly (and it would only need a few car lengths before slamming the brakes on) jack the wheel up, sit on the floor and kick and kick and kick the wheel. Both feet, left right, left right on the tyre sidewall.

It might be advisable to have something non-damaging for the wheel to fall on (that's assuming it misses your shins! :o)

Obviously you'll be adhering to safe jacking and axle stand procedures....

Edited by GKP
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Malc, have you considered removing the whole front wheel, hub and carier?

As in, remove top wishbones, bottom ball joint (should be able to get at it from the back of the brake disc/ wheel, probably have to resort to removing track rod arm as i doubt you'be be able to un-do the nut.

That way you can get at the back of the wheel a bit better, possible support the wheel on some broicks/ blocks of wood and presuade the hub out of it with a small ( 5lb+) hammer.

Possibly a bit over-aggressive, but what's wrong with a sledge hammer & nut approach?

Andy

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Hope you've already gotten the thing, but certainly loosening the bolts, putting it on the groud, then rocking it, moving fore and aft, hitting the brakes even if the caliper unsticks, etc., etc. will work. Sometimes just the weight of the vehicle is enough to break them loose.

Let us know how you get it.

Cheers, Lee

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Cheers for all the suggestions guys.

I am not going to get the chance to try anything for a couple of weeks since I'm back in India from this weekend for 10 days. Upon return I am going with the 'getting it on the ground and rocking it side to side' suggestions (it won't budge back and forth because the caliper is so seized), followed by the 'take the entire upright assembly off' suggestion.

I will report back later in the month!

Cheers

Malc

www.espritism.com

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Malc,

Hope it all works out! Remember that you may be able to try to move the car under it's own power, w/ the lug bolts loose, it will force the wheel to rotate and possibly break free w/ the caliper stuck. Although my bets are on the caliper unsticking! That wouldn't be too bad either!

Anyway, let us know when you get back to try it.

Have a safe trip!

Cheers, Lee

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Well... how interesting... we both have encountered the same problem.... I am currently having trouble removing my rear wheels from my 88. The hub appears to be ceased to the inside of the wheel. I tried hammers and such... but no success.. So I sprayed "rust-off ice" and we'll see what happens tonight. Hopefully it sets in enough to get it off... Might have to pull my hub assembly off... i dunno.

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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try and see if you can get a c clamp on the inside caliper and disc to push the piston in. Once the wheel is free use a shot filled mallet on the rubber not the rim while spinning the tire. Once it moves out push it back and mallet it again working it back and forth while rotating the wheel.

Good luck

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Try boiling hot water from a kettle. If you poor it on the centre of the alloy and in between the hub and wheel you might be surprised by the results. B)

I was working on an Vectra the other week, trying to remove the disc from the hub. I must of been hitting the disc for over an hour with the biggest mallet I could find. I also used Plusgas and a blow torch, but very carefully. Decided to stop for a cup of tea, then used the remaning hot water on the disc/hub and two hits later it was off!! I was amazed.

I've also used it on seized drums.

Hope this helps.

Rob

'89 SE

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Sweet!... I'll give that a try... because the next stage is pulling the entire hub and putting the whole thing in the 10 ton press....

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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I still think loosening the lugs a bit, then moving the car around will be the best solution, even if you have to drive it; turn, accelerate, brake. Never encountered one that would not loosen. Even 4x4 wheels corroded to h#ll. Also, try pouring the hot water on it like Rob said.

Best of luck, Lee

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I finally got my rims off... I let them soak in "rust-off Ice" for 2 days and then I sprayed them with "Nut-Buster" and they came off.

Modifying esprit's.. now that's fun..

PS... I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MECHANIC.. I Have chosen to help those in need, in the past and must not be construed as being a certified technician.

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had the same problem with my 91 SE. Soaked the hubs with pb blaster, Then I jacked up the car and wedged a sissor jack between the tire/wheel and the suspension brackets. And slowly

cranked on the jack. This was a tiedous process as you have to rotate the wheel at times so it would not bind on the hub. Finally came off without any damage. I then used a die grinder to open up a bit the inner wheel hub, and then for good measure used some good copper anti sieze on the hubs. Have had no problems ever since.

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