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Dixie237

Polishing! Hand v machine, paint thickness measuring

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Hey all,

There's nothing more pleasurable than spending a day cleaning and polishing the Esprit! I start mine early morning as my drive is in shade up until about 11am this time of year and I have a Coleman event shelter I put up if I know I'm gonna be out there all day.

The problem, with my car being black, is the holograms I can get after polishing. Looks like a dreamy wet pool of unbelievable shininess all the while I'm not in direct sunlight. As soon as direct sunlight hits the car, there are the holograms! Only realy visible on the bonnet and roof as this is the 'perfect' angle too see them in direct sun.

I've used mur and autoglym resin polish (all after a thorough shampoo of course) I have just bought some Refinish Finish 12000, which does actually looks better. I only had a chance to test this quickly yesterday.

Just wondered what you are all doing out there? Obviously no clearcoat and, correct me if I'm wrong, antique cellulose paint.

I'm considering a machine polisher, TBH I'd stay well clear of the stripes and decals and only do the bonnet and roof, but this is original 37 year old paint! I'd spend some time practicing on my runabout first obvuiosly and approach using a machine on the Esprit very carefully. I'd like to get the paint thickness measured first also. Can anyone recommend a good unit for this?

So, any thoughts, experience, advice, product recommendations much appreciated.

cheers

D

 

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I can't recall what brand polishing compound I used, but everywhere I used it (and nowhere I didn't) the clear coat started bubbling up. I now need hours of sanding and a full respray.

 

Dave

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The pleasures of black cars...

I hate mine for that and being "plastic", it makes it even worse.

I have had success with Sonax products, it seems the name changed though because I can seem to find it anymore. It got probably replaced by something else. The name was something like Nano micro polish and I apply a very small amount to a red pad on an orbital polisher.

Hope this helps.

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I have a black Dodge pickup and I use Griots polishing products and an orbital polisher. Don't know if it's available outside of the USA though, but any good to high quality stuff should nearly the same. The truck has acres ( and I mean acres of black) of bodywork and I get no swirl or halo issues. I wash, Clay, Polish, Wax. Lots of work but looks fantastic when done.

IMG00089-20110707-1847_zpsdbdeeoym.jpg

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On 25 July 2016 at 07:00, deverett said:

I can't recall what brand polishing compound I used, but everywhere I used it (and nowhere I didn't) the clear coat started bubbling up. I now need hours of sanding and a full respray.

 

Dave

Hi Dave,

yeah this is what I don't  want to find myself facing!

On 25 July 2016 at 07:21, Mesprit87 said:

The pleasures of black cars...

I hate mine for that and being "plastic", it makes it even worse.

I have had success with Sonax products, it seems the name changed though because I can seem to find it anymore. It got probably replaced by something else. The name was something like Nano micro polish and I apply a very small amount to a red pad on an orbital polisher.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Luc, what machine do you have?

 

3 hours ago, jcslocum said:

I have a black Dodge pickup and I use Griots polishing products and an orbital polisher. Don't know if it's available outside of the USA though, but any good to high quality stuff should nearly the same. The truck has acres ( and I mean acres of black) of bodywork and I get no swirl or halo issues. I wash, Clay, Polish, Wax. Lots of work but looks fantastic when done.

IMG00089-20110707-1847_zpsdbdeeoym.jpg

Nice job Jon, looks superb. I assume you'd have the luxury of a clear coat though!  My car is straight onto paint. I'd never use an aggresive polish on it. The 'Refinish Finish 12000' I just bought is a very gentle product. When I used this I get minimum black paint onto my polishing pad

 

3 hours ago, JayEmm said:

Will a paint depth gauge work on an Esprit?

You can get them for measuring with 'non ferrous' sunbstrate, but the price rockets! Any users out there?

cheers all above for replies

D

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3 hours ago, jcslocum said:

I have a black Dodge pickup and I use Griots polishing products and an orbital polisher. Don't know if it's available outside of the USA though, but any good to high quality stuff should nearly the same. The truck has acres ( and I mean acres of black) of bodywork and I get no swirl or halo issues. I wash, Clay, Polish, Wax. Lots of work but looks fantastic when done.

IMG00089-20110707-1847_zpsdbdeeoym.jpg

Did the wheels go in a hot wash? :blink:

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Hi Dean

Try look around this website for some hints and tips.  http://www.autogeek.net/  Yes, its American based.  I would certainly recommend using a clay bar with the detail spray.  First time I used a clay bar I was amazed at the difference.  You might want to consider a couple of grades of polish to tackle it in stages.  I find Meguires and Griot good products.  I had a black Jaguar XJS before my Esprit and I used a black polish and wax system, and it was good, Meguires I think, something to consider.  I have one of the 3" and 6" Griot orbital polishers and they are great.  You don't have to push hard with them at all.  Even gentle approach seems to work.  I do the main large areas with the polisher and by hand in the details.  The products today are soooo much better than the old T-Cut and Turtle Wax days.

I'm originally from the UK, but live in the US now.  The American's LOVE their car detailing.  Try Youtube too for hints and tips.

If you have a leather interior, then I highly recommend a product called Leatherique.  I have used it on my XJS and Esprit, nice stuff.

Post some before and after pics.

 

 

 

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In my experience the clay bar and similar Things, fill up the very fine scratches and do make it look better, for a short while.

There is also a professional polishing product I will recommend, and even though it's actually developed for a pro polishing machine from Festool, I use it to hand polish out the holograms on many Things, not only the Esprit, but also the 12 layer piano paint I did on my loudspeakers and finish it off with 10 layers of canaubawax. It's meant for this purpose and works very well.

It's Festool MPA11000/1, a ceramic polish paste. Get a 1/2 liter bottle, some fresh microfiber cloths and try it out somewhere a bit more insignificant to test and see if you like it.

Personally, I like it and haven't found anyhing better so far.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

Link to Festool Danish site:

https://www.festool.dk/Produkter/Accessories/Pages/Detail.aspx?pid=492427&name=Polermiddel-MPA-11000-1

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32 minutes ago, Jacques said:

10 layers of canaubawax

The chaps on Detailing World who obsess over these things did a study (using some very advanced technology, considering the project) on applying layers of wax and concluded that you could add no more than 2 before any extra wax actually ended up with a thinner layer of wax!

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=127943

and

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=130901

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Hi Dean,

I use the griot 3" orbital, it's good for tight spots if somewhat slower that the latest "large throw" orbital polishers. The good thing about being orbital is that it will generate less heat than a typical polisher at the glazing speed. There is also different pads you can use with different density, I find the orbital tool not agressive enough for the heavy jobs.

 

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Interesting read Bibs, thoiugh I think that some layers are build up to overcome some imperfections in the lacquer layers and application of those, incl. the polishing.

Since I did speakers, I've never had to rewax them. Dust simply cannot sit on them, it just flies off with the slightest of air moving in the living room. I did the same on our fridge, and applied several layers. Though regular cleaning with cleaning agents, demands a regular rewaxing. For cars and motorcycles, I also think more layers applies a better uv protection, through the additives. It's jsut a feeling, no science here ;)

I usually wax the cars several times with one day in between to harden better.

Personally, i'd not use a polishing machine or orbital polisher.  But you do save time. I spent 22 or 24 working hours over a few days to polish my Corrado up from pink and grey to red. All by hand. Now, 5 years later, it needs a full respray to look good again. But it was worth the effort.

When I had my Laverda resprayed, I had several layers of a specific clearcoat (brilliant) applied on top.The special type makes for a non-yellowish tone, despite the depth of the collective number of layers. And there's something to work with in the future. By hand. I think the hand can better directly feel a change in shape and curve and regulate pressure. It's a tedious job and I am sure most would use a good polishing machine. I had good results with the Festool polishing products. I use 3 different grades from their programme, and in severe cases, I use another harsher one first, if I think the depth of the paint is good enough.

Anyway, I can recomment Festool polish paste grade 11000.

Just my take on the matter.

cheers,

jacques.

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I use different products.

For the full treatement:

First always a good clean of course with PH-Neutral swissvax car bath in a bucket of water.

Then eraser clay blue with auto finesse glide clay lube to get the car really clean.

If needed to get scratches out ( and only then) I use a rotary with different compound grades from the 3M perfect-it range.

Next I use the swissvax cleaner fluid regular , followed by the Swissvax Onyx carnauba wax. by hand.

Geert

 

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9 hours ago, Bibs said:

Did the wheels go in a hot wash? :blink:

Yeah, dryer was too hot!

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