snowrx Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 I've not had a problem with dry fitted intake gaskets, but a smear around the water passages can't hurt. Throwing (gasket + variable sealant) thickness into the diff preload measure seems more trouble than I'd endure. I'd do those dry. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
910Esprit Posted June 23, 2019 Report Share Posted June 23, 2019 According to 'the book' .10mm of driveshaft housing adjustment =0.25kg of preload variation and the range of preload (for new bearings) is 6-9KG. (i.e. a very generous 3kg range) It therefore seems to me that the effect of the gasket cement can be pretty much disregarded from the overall calculations. But its not my concrete floor at stake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 I'm not sure how accurate this can be. The radius of the crown wheel position you have the string wrapped on will change the reading. Also there's no oil in the box increasing the resistance and the bearings and crown wheel will loosen as they are rotated as they have sat in the same position for 14 years! Also I need to fill the crown wheel mechanism with oil. Think I need to oil everything and rotate the crownwheel for a bit then do it all again. Good point about the gasket thickness! 11 hours ago, snowrx said: I've not had a problem with dry fitted intake gaskets, but a smear around the water passages can't hurt. Throwing (gasket + variable sealant) thickness into the diff preload measure seems more trouble than I'd endure. I'd do those dry. I'm going to smear Wellseal around the intake and water holes. On the half shafts I will smear silicon sealer, after the preload and backlash stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Backlash Didnt need to clamp the bearings. There was enough friction to hold it all in place. I have an average of 0.2 mm all around the crownwheel. All readings are almost exactly two. This can't be by chance! As I suspected someone has done this before and the car probably hasn't run since it was done.. I will fit the gaskets smeared with silicon and recheck the readings, the preload was 8 kgs after I lubricated some of the parts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Well it was all going so well! There is no oil pressure in the oil pump. I tried to pump oil into the Turbo outlet pipe. Hardly any went in. All that happened was a massive lot of oil everywhere. I tried spinning the pump fir several minutes- still no pressure. I reckon there's an air blockage enroute to the pump. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
910Esprit Posted June 24, 2019 Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 I assume you definitely fitted the pickup olive and tightened? To prime, I also use the Turbo oil feed, but just use a length of hose and a funnel and then let gravity do its work over a couple of hours. Are you trying with or without the oil cooler in circuit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 It's still onnthe stand. Oil plate blanked off. Just realised I should try rotating the oil pump backwards to suck the oil from the Turbo outlet! Will try this. I left for a think it as it was turning into a distaster! Yep new oilive to correct torque. Actually, I think I may connect a socketbonto my drill and try to spin up the pump. Less messy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Those of you that know me on here will understand I won't be beaten by an oil pump! Soooooo attempt one Oil pumped into engine via Turbo outlet. Engine on stand. Oil plate blanked off. Pump rotated clockwise( mistake!) attempt two jist about to try the same thing and rotate the pump anti clockwise by hand. clutch driveshaft Thanks to Steve who gave me a Harry Marten circlip. heres the pictures. The primary shaft has a recess where you push the clip into. Spring and shaft in first then clip. You can no longer pull the shaft out. Here's the picture I always wanted to see as I could never understand this!you can see the recess where the clip fits in the end of the shaft.here the clip is resting loosely on top of the primary shaft.here the clip is in position in the recess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Attempt two I pumped the oil through the oil pressure guage point and rotated the pump anti clockwise with a drill and allen head bit. No effect. I then blanked off the Turbo and oil pressure guage holes check the oil level and spun the drill up clockwise to full speed. About 20 seconds later oil pissing out if the sand wichbplate I taped off. I then removed the oil pressure blank and oil also coming out at a fast rate! All in all it's working! If I was to do this again I wouldn't bother with an electrical pump. Just get a drill on it and spin the pump up. It was packed well with grease. At least I know it works. I should imagine when the engine is started I t might take a while for oil pressure to build as the oil cooler pipes are very long and with take quite a bit if oil! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Well now that trauma is over I'm waiting for a few bolts and a split pin then I can put the bell housing back on. Once this and the engine are together I have the problem of installing it with limited headroom for the crane. I'm thinking of faking the rear wheels of the car, lowering it, pushing the engine in position and jackingbthe body up around it. I can then put the wheels on and lower the engine the last bit to the chasis. Has anyone tried this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 Backlash dial guage picI found it best to rock the crown wheel several times to get the reading. I took lots of readings at different points. All within spec. New seals You have got to get the tube the correct way round or it won't fit in the bell housing! This is now waiting for new bolts before sealing up. Tomorrow the timing belt goes on and thanks to Jerry on here, I have the correct tensioner Guage. A real milestone! I'm posting all these pics so you don't have to waste hours like I have figuring all this out! I actually tried different positions of the dial guage to see how it affected readings. The answer was not much. I tried to get it as verticle as posible on the edge of the diameter. The above was not the final measuring point, but it gives you an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Steve V8 Posted June 24, 2019 Gold FFM Report Share Posted June 24, 2019 4 hours ago, Lotusfab said: Well now that trauma is over I'm waiting for a few bolts and a split pin then I can put the bell housing back on. Once this and the engine are together I have the problem of installing it with limited headroom for the crane. I'm thinking of faking the rear wheels of the car, lowering it, pushing the engine in position and jackingbthe body up around it. I can then put the wheels on and lower the engine the last bit to the chasis. Has anyone tried this? I have the same problem with limited headroom, also the legs of my crane foul the lower links with the car on the ground, solution remove the wheels from the crane, position the car under the raised Engine/transaxle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Work started at 0600 today. Oil all cleaned up. I have now drained the sump again, ready for the engine install. Timing belt is now on, but needs adjusting. Its necessary to consult the parts manual continuously to ensure all the washers, bolts nuts, spring washers are correct and the correct bolts are being used. There are some ferry odd lengths. Only way is to cut the bolts if necessary. The gearbox bolts are crucial. If the length is wrong some can foul the gears, it will be a big mess if you get it wrong! Only about seven days work from turning the key unless I get any unexpected problems. There are always a lot of those! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonwat Posted June 25, 2019 Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 13 hours ago, Lotusfab said: At least I know it works. I should imagine when the engine is started I t might take a while for oil pressure to build as the oil cooler pipes are very long and with take quite a bit if oil! I'd fill the oil cooler & it's pipes manually before starting the engine. 2 Quote Cheers, John W http://jonwatkins.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Thanks, thats an excellent idea! I'll pump the oil in using the electric pump. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Timing belt done! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 I bought an undersheild on eBay about two years back. I never unwrapped it until now! Think I got lucky! Not so lucky on the car. Several rivnuts missing - I really hate them! Inlet manifold install today. For the exhaust stainless locking nuts and thickened washers. Have just ordered some Gates belts for the water pump and alternator. New inlet spacers all round. Will fit the carbs after the engine install.I decided to check the gearbox crown and pinion tooth contact point.I covered it in engineering blue. It's really difficult to see the contact points. You have to load the wheel to get a sensible reading. All at can say from this check is the pinion and crownwheel appear to be in the correct ballpark.I have a pattern which appears to match the top right. so I'm going to install it, see how it runs and sounds. Any issues the box is coming out again! Mysteriously the gear marking yellow stuff doesn't seem to be easily available in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 I've now replaced the rivnuts for the undersheild. I'm almost ready to install the new clutch and bolt it all together. I've been watching wheeler dealers Esprit episode to see how high I have to get the engine in! Doesn't seem too difficult, but I'll find out soon! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Barrykearley Posted June 27, 2019 Gold FFM Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Use a tractor to drop the lump in 👍 2 Quote Only here once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowrx Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Almost this high, but with more angle! A chain hoist with load leveler helps a lot, but many have done it with a portable hoist. (ratty tiedown strap is not supporting the engine, just correcting a tilt to the side) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
910Esprit Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 If possible, my other 'tip' would be to work outside. Infinite headroom and allows you to continually manouver car and crane as things progress. Picture above is a good illustration of how the gearbox hooks under the transom while the front of the engine clears the roof. NB Make sure the reverse light switch is removed before you start. I also prefer to fit without discs, but as above, its doable with them too. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 So I need to find a friendly farmer! I think working outside is a good idea. I think I will push the car out of the garage and put the hoist on the edge of the concrete floor. Then I should have the maximum headroom on the crane. I have an engine balancer any suggestions on where to bolt the chain on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Barrykearley Posted June 28, 2019 Gold FFM Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 It’s the best way 👍 1 1 Quote Only here once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyww Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 An Esprit guy I used to know, Bernard White, used to use a gantry crane. There is a little matter of needing the warehouse it fits in though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverfrost Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Sweet manifold on that lump Barry, is that an SJ product ? Quote A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.