Lotusfab Posted July 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 Emergency! Where are the torque figures for the half shaft retaining bolts, clutch bellhousing( including the four internal nuts? ) cheers. I put it all back together, but as always the Norfolk boys had the last laugh! Just need to torque it up before the sealant goes off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 Can't believe they wrote a manual and didn't include these figures! They must be in there somewhere?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2019 Well I used a bolt chart for 8.8 grade bolts for generic torque settings/ lubricated threads, so all done! Now it's a wait for the clutch parts to arrive. I can then boktvthe engine on and drop it back in. The gearbox used 7 mm and 9 mm threads, very annoying! I replaced all the bolts with new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2019 I used oil resistant permatex after a recommendation to seal the bellhousing and gearbox. The rest of the gearbox is sealed with Loctite 518. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2019 The engine has landed! For the first time in some years the engine stand has been dismantled and the engine is on the floor! I was going to replace the spigot bearing with a spacer and a new one. My distrust of new parts is growing. I'm going to check the crank depth first! If the spacer isn't exactly correct, bye bye crankshaft! Then the flywheel can go on. With Loctite on the bolts! Still can't believe there are no torque figures for the bellhousing bolts! . New brake switch fitted to gearbox. Lost my new O ring for the speedo drive! I now have an alternator problem. I bought a new bracket and it just doesn't look correct. The belt is rubbing in the mounting bracket. Is the belt long enough? Is the bracket on the correct bolt? This is how the engine came to me! Doesn't look correct to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2019 Should the end of the alternator bracket go where the red arrow is? Despite how it arrived I think the bracket is in wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 Not long now! Today I will try squeezing bread into the spigot hole to push the bearing out! Then flywheel and clutch fitting. After that wait for new bellhousing bolts to arrive then it's engine back in time! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fridge Posted July 9, 2019 Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 @LotusFab Tim Engle in the US has documented all of the torque figures for the Lotus 907-912 cars. Here are the figures for the Esprit Turbo (1983-1987): Gearbox (5 Speed Citroen -- SM / DS23 and Maserati Merak) Lb-Ft Kg-m N-m Source Bell Housing / Clutch Housing 910 Citroen (Bell Housing) Clutch Housing to Oil Sump (2 Bolts on btm) 30 4.18 41.0 Gturbo-STurbo, Sec EB, Pg 41 -- Harry Martens Limmen Citroen (Bell Housing) Clutch Housing to Gearbox, 7mm 20.3 2.81 27.6 Harry Martens Limmen Citroen (Bell Housing) Clutch Housing to Gearbox, 9mm 28.9 4.00 39.2 Harry Martens Limmen 907-912 Citroen (Bell Housing) Clutch Housing to Gearbox, 12mm (dry threads) 36.0 4.98 48.8 Esprit S1 / S2 -- Harry Martens Limmen Citroen (Assemble with 12mm Washer under the nuts on the studs) Parts Manuals -- Harry Martens Limmen Driveshaft (Output Shaft) Housings, left and right 907-912 Driveshaft Housing to Gearbox - 7mm (use Avdelbond A138) 20.3 2.81 27.6 Esprit S1 / S2 -- Harry Martens Limmen 907-912 Driveshaft Housing to Gearbox - 9mm 28.9 4.00 39.2 Esprit S1 / S2 -- Harry Martens Limmen 907-912-910 Sleeve Nut Retains Bearing in Driveshaft Housing (F24, F25) 72.0 10.00 98.1 Esprit S1 / S2, G-Turbo -- Harry Martens Limmen 907-912-910 Grub Screw - Locks the Sleeve Nut, above (Pg F24)(Pg F25) 7.2 1.00 9.8 Harry Martens Limmen 907-912-910 Bearing Locking Nut, Locks Bearing to Driveshaft F26, F25 108 15.00 147.0 Esprit S1 / S2, G-Turbo -- Harry Martens Limmen 907-912-910 Grub Screw - Locks the Bearing Locking Nut, above 7.2 1.00 9.8 Harry Martens Limmen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve4012 Posted July 9, 2019 Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 14 hours ago, Lotusfab said: Should the end of the alternator bracket go where the red arrow is? Despite how it arrived I think the bracket is in wrong? This is my '85 turbo. It has Ac if that makes a difference? Not the best angle I'm afraid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 Thanks Steve, funnily I have just put it on that point and it's perfect. The position above my red arrow. Well I have used up a slice of bread ( hopefully the wife hasn't been counting the slices!) getting the spigot bearing out. You have to have a reasonable seal and hit it quite hard! Easy really and very cheap! The good thing is the bread sticks together and is easy to clean up! The spacer fitted easily with a slight gap and the new spigot bearing flush with letters facing out. Waiting for the N3 grease to arrive. The crank is balanced to the flywheel so it has to go back exactly where you took it off. Easy really with the TDC markings. New spigot in and flush. Something's come up so that's it fir the next week or so. Thanks Fridge for the torque settings. They are very similar to those I derived from tables and bolt size. The old bread trick has been passed down to me from my grandfather and on through the generations, I was reminded of it whilst watching YouTube - if you believe that you believe anything! 😃😃😃😃😄😄😄😄😄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolls Posted July 9, 2019 Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 I reckon the bread hack would have to be one of the very best! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAR Posted July 9, 2019 Report Share Posted July 9, 2019 Brown bread, the healthy option 1 Quote It's getting there...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 Borg and beck new clutch. New Nylatron washer, new tprelease bearing.Mobile Urinex N2 grease on most parts. Mobile Urinex an3 on new spigot bearing, as per the manual. Flat bearing to curved fingers on the pressure plate(later design). I've included pictures as they will help anyone else who need to do this. The speedo drive O ring was 1.5 mm x 23 mm. New O ring on inner speedo shaft and new grease in the grease nipple point! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve4012 Posted July 11, 2019 Report Share Posted July 11, 2019 Is that definitely the right way round for the fork clips Fabian? I thought the ends might locate into the cut out on the bearing collar. Maybe doesn't make any difference though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Thanks Steve. Mmm, you've got me thinking??? The rear of the clip is curved which sits in the curve at the back of the fork. The u part of the clip as far as I can see fits in the cutout so it can't move position. I could be wrong though! I will take a close up and ask Steve at S and J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Thanks a lot Steve, the other Steve at S and J has confirmed I got the clips 180 degrees out. So if I rotate the release bearing 180s and the end of each clip goes into the cutout that is the correct way to fit! Good job I hadn't attached the gearbox! Saved by the forum again! Ive decide to install the engine and gear bid separately. Why? Keep the wait down, give more clearance and allow me to stand in the engine bay and assemble the carbs etc. I will support the engine underneath with axel sands and a block of wood. Gearbox in after! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyww Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 I have only done this once many years ago and having done it as one lump I can see the attraction of doing them separately. But on the other hand virtually everyone on the forums advises not to put in separately 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Yep the manual advises to do it as a lump as well. I think if your doing it in your own you might as well do it separately as it will be easier. I let everyone know if it's a disaster! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
910Esprit Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Andyww said: But on the other hand virtually everyone on the forums advises not to put in separately That would be my advice and I've done both options more than once.... You will find that once you have the engine in place, the clearance for the gearbox is not increased and you then have to manage the critical alignment of the input shaft without messing anything up. Trust the manual... NB - I've only ever installed/removed single handed Edited July 12, 2019 by 910Esprit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Mmmm, I'm now having second thoughts! Just seems to be pretty big to guide in on your own without trashing the paint! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
910Esprit Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 I've always managed to avoid it, but would recommend placing carpet over the rear deck and the back of the roof while you are doing it. I was always woried about losing the Nylatron washer on the back of one of the clutch fingers while doing the inevitable tooing & frooing while fitting the box separately -The only reason I've ever done this was to remove/replace just the gearbox and it seemed significantly more difficult to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonwat Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 8 minutes ago, Lotusfab said: Mmmm, I'm now having second thoughts! Just seems to be pretty big to guide in on your own without trashing the paint! Lots of thick blankets covering it all secured in place with tape. ☺ 1 Quote Cheers, John W http://jonwatkins.co.uk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Thanks Chaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotusfab Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Ok plan B. I'm missing a locator dowel which hasn't come yet. I will mate the gearbox and try lifting as one. I'll then split it afterwards just enough to put the dowel in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fridge Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 41 minutes ago, Lotusfab said: Ok plan B. I'm missing a locator dowel which hasn't come yet. I will mate the gearbox and try lifting as one. I'll then split it afterwards just enough to put the dowel in! Personally I'd wait. You're just making work for yourself. What's the rush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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