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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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IMG_7717.thumb.PNG.fb32a2ae113808f7cbdc38ff92c767a6.PNGEureka! Thanks a lot Steve that picture confirms the operating dog on the reverse shaft should be verticle. I'll take the top off and reset it then a clean Loctite 518, job done! Thanks very much. It makes perfect sense how it works now and explains why I struggled to comprehend how my gearbox worked! 

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Yep all dog positions are fixed by the bolt in the shaft detent.  The long fork which positions the reverse gear is one of the only things you can set. It can move rotationally and longditudinally. So all I need to do is mark the position on the reverse shaft. Loosen the bolts and rotate the dog to verticle. Then tighten the bolts. Job done! Maybe this explains why reverse is a problem for so many. The fork position may be wrong making reverse selection difficult or impossible. I suppose the bolts could come loose and slip over time. Especially with enthusiastic drivers heaving on the gearstick! 

I look forward to a very refined gearchange on this car!

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8 hours ago, 910Esprit said:

IMG_20190803_162403.jpg

IMG_20190803_162418.jpg

Let me know if you need any other angles -  That box was in my car for last 5 years or so, just removed as 5th gear starting to whine a little

Steve, when you have a spare moment  please could I have a picture of the reverse gear. Just want to check that mine is in an identical position visually on the reverse shaft. Thanks.

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6 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Steve, when you have a spare moment  please could I have a picture of the reverse gear. Just want to check that mine is in an identical position visually on the reverse shaft.

I took this one yessterday, you can also see the witness mark on the cog, where it engages.  I'll take an engaged version a bit later

IMG_20190803_162351.jpg

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IMG_7774.thumb.JPG.dd323f01ea57cfa58e0fe4946ac5e537.JPGHello all, yes I am still building this,I had a short break! 

Gearbox

Well cover is off and this is what I found.IMG_7771.thumb.JPG.e5434ce33ef102c8116f128f0ef46bc4.JPGIMG_7772.thumb.JPG.47f1422af4184327d6412c8d8e98d985.JPGdifficult to see, but I had set the reverse gear position correctly. Also note the reverse shaft dog is only just if the verticle and nit enough out to baulk the selector mechanism. I have however reset it to exactly verticle as this will increase the separation of fifth and reverse gear, making it more distinctive at the gear lever. The gear selector engages reverse when selected manually with the cover off. So the engine orientation etc is not the problem. The fault must be in the selector shaft. So I tested it.

The fault lies with the cross shaft itself.

Top picture. You can see the shaft is corroded I cleaned up the relevant parts previously, but not well enough. When I tested the shaft it travels all the way in easily when 1/2 3/4. 5 is more  difficult but once the shaft has rotated to the reverse position it jams on corrosion as the shaft tries to slide past the rubber seal. Solution, new shaft or try extensively polishing it! Any other ideas out there? This gearbox really is very simple which I suppose is the genius of it. The Loctite 518 I have to say seems to have worked really well, although it hadn't been exposed to much oil yet. Shame to have to take it apart! 

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You can see similar corrosion on my selector shafts (photos above), which has just been polished smooth with use.  That gearbox had very rusty brown oil when I bought it, which I flushed a numer of times (out of the car) with parafin.   It then served me well for another 5 years and is still perfectly useeable.  

They do seem prone to contamination, which presumably could come from the breather, but some also seems to get in from the bellhousing 'open' input shaft.   Its probably one of the reasons why annual oil changes are specified, but probably rarely happen.   All I'd do is strip down and clean and polish that shaft with something like a scotchbrite.   It will be absolutely fine.  A new part (if available) would not be a good use of your money!   Loctite 518 is fine for that application.

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Thanks Steve. Are the welds normally there to hold the spring? They don't look right? 

Still they shouldnt affect the mechanism.

Just had a look at the above pics I'll try polishing it should work enpven thoughbthe shaft is pitted slightly.

I can always test it and if no joy plan B!

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Funilly enough, I was cleaning the residue sealant off a top cover yesterday and just thinking how crude those welds were!.   So safe to assume they are 'as desiggned!)  I'd take you a photo but I'm not at home at the mo

Hang on  - I've found one on the computer...

IMG_20190803_162618.jpg

Edited by 910Esprit
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Thanks for that, surprising how this was made. Well I need to get on and polishbthe shaft up. I did it before but not well enough! This time I going to put the oven on without sealant and getvthe reverse working before the final fix. 

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Well I have extensively cleaned and polished the shaft. It still has a resistance. On closer inspection the bellcrank is missing a washer and applying pressure to the crossshaft when it's at full travel! Should have this sorted very soon!

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Well a good day's work, until I got to the calipers! New brake discs. The calipers foul the disc. I guessing the shims have to be used behind the disc to shim it to the centrr. You can see the caliper is rubbing against the disc! Has anyone else had to shim them? 

IMG_7801.JPG

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Yes they do need to be shimmed to centre the disc. Were there no shims in there before?

Or, there seems to be something on the other side, are you sure you have not put the shims on the wrong side of the disc?

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