free hit
counters
Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 2 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


IGNORED

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


Recommended Posts

No way i am going near it with the drill, it probably would be ok its just not worth the risk.  But i think i may try a decent sized screw drive with mole grips attached and hopefully the lock may give way ?  Then as you say just replace the barrel that is if the fiberglass cap does not break in the process. :(

Have lived with it for long enough but just annoying if your planning a long journey as i have to fill up, then find another garage shortly after to brim the tanks when its all leveled off. :blush:

A

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Lotus Heritage keep all of the Turbo key codes on build cards. Have just obtained the fuel cap key codes. it's a W shape and 3 digit number. You need to contact Andy Graham at Lotus heritage, but fear it might be stuck. There's always a way if you persist! 

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Whilst Im patiently waiting to power up and test this Evil machine(no battery) has anyone got a method of testing the wastegate valve and the fuel pressure setter? Would be a shame if I blew it to bits on the drive! Especially after a rebuild! Specifically what pressure meters to use and what readings etc? Thanks. PS any battery recomendations? Like the previous S1 blogs, theres not a lot of pictures or details on anything. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a whole thread about battery trays and batteries here - especially the early cars

Can't help you with testing the wastegate - apart from when you are driving, it mustn't go very much past 12 o'clock - and it will spin round very quickly once you get past 2,500 rpm.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its not really practical to test the wastgate without removing it to check its not seized.

As Chris mentioned, drive it whilst keeping an eye on the boost gauge. If I recall correctly it should max out at 0.5 bar which is 7PSI. Been a while since I Looked ant my boost gauge but I think half way round is where it should go under full boost.

:) 

It's getting there......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. 

Key update. The company above made the petrol cap and door keys. They work perfectly. They could not make the tailgate or ignition keys, which are BL(British leyland) however I found a site on eBay where they will make them for £4.95! 

I can see how corrosion could seize the petrol cap locKs so plan to disassemble and clean the mechanism. The door locks work perfectly. I have had another piece of luck, got the owners manual with the car and all the original bills frm the eighties. Have to say if I had bought this new would have been pretty pissed with all the bills! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We'll have found out the bond car had the same interior colour as mine, so a little less work there. What stereo did the car have originally, my car has a Panasonic?

image.png

Bond interior from the actual car!

image.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are a lot of discrepancies between the movie and the car that is claimed to be from the film.  The car now has an HC bonnet!  Didnt even exist when the film was made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

little quiz, what is this stuff? Starter for 10 no conferring??? I'm guessing a state of the art 1980s alarm system?image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg

image.jpeg

The black box is like an alien device that has been integrated into the loom, there's lots of connections! Think a rewire is long overdue!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep just the usual alarm from the 80/90's when car theft boomed.

Just removed three systems from my Elan which filled a bucket.

Not sure about last pic?  Looks like some thing from the vacuum system?

Dave :)

Do or do not, there is no try! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. Have a battery on it way. Will rewire the rear loom using the circuit diagram and test the engine. Have got the clutch pedal on. The pin was out. The clutch fork seems to have a lot of travel and sits just forward of the rear of the bellhousing opening before the release bearing engages - is this correct? Put a borescope down the gap. All looks ok. Have to bleed the clutch line and get it working. Then fill the brakes with fluid.

 

Edited by Bibs
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...