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Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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When I have the solution I will post it here. It's rediculous there is no info on this as many many people must have switch over to the braided cable. 

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Fabian the braided cable from SJ is 3/8" master end and the same slave end after the fitting with the tube is inserted into the pipe (see photo). Not sure what master/ slave you have but I bought the Landrover parts and needed a 3/8" male/ male adaptor both ends for master and slave. Copper washers are also necessary as the thread on the adaptor is not long enough to reach the bottom of the bore on the master.

Screenshot_20180416-081926_eBay.jpg

rps20180416_082557.jpg

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Hi Steve,

Thanks . Well done mate, that’s saved me a lot of hassle, I’ve got a new land rover slave as well. - happy days one less problem! 😁😁😁😁now onto eBay!

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All ordered! I hope this resto blog is helping people save time. Some of this info is a nightmare to find out! 

Why don't they just give you these connectors in the bag with the cable? What the other two unions are for I don't know!

Oh, and a sketch of where to put them and the washers! 

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Thanks Steve, I will look into simplifying my slave connection too, eventually. Did not manage to identify the threads but suspected it was imperial. I had a combo that worked with all the adapters but it’s an awfully long adapter jumble with lots of interfaces (and possible areas of leakage). Fabian, I had a tough time to get the hose sealed. At first, I did not tighten the final olive and nut (cable side) hard enough and there was some leakage. Mind you the hose tends to warp when you tighten it. What worked for me was to release the slave and let it rotate free and only align it for the final tuck. Good luck with the build, car starts to look great!


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You mentioned doing the capping rails the other day...hows that going?

i presume you did them on your S1, but there are some great pics from @simon a-b otherwise.

I just followed them and got mine sorted in about 2h per side. 

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5 minutes ago, Gis said:

Thanks Steve, I will look into simplifying my slave connection too, eventually. Did not manage to identify the threads but suspected it was imperial. I had a combo that worked with all the adapters but it’s an awfully long adapter jumble with lots of interfaces (and possible areas of leakage). Fabian, I had a tough time to get the hose sealed. At first, I did not tighten the final olive and nut (cable side) hard enough and there was some leakage. Mind you the hose tends to warp when you tighten it. What worked for me was to release the slave and let it rotate free and only align it for the final tuck. Good luck with the build, car starts to look great!

Thanks Steve and  Gis, for taking the time to post and the info which all helps.

6 minutes ago, DaveyT said:

You mentioned doing the capping rails the other day...hows that going?

i presume you did them on your S1, but there are some great pics from @simon a-b otherwise.

I just followed them and got mine sorted in about 2h per side. 

Hi Dave,

thanks yep I'm lucky I did them for the S1 and posted it all on my S1 blog - which I'll have to look up myself as I don't remember a lot about it! 😀😀😀😀

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When I did my clutch line I was so annoyed with the poor quality of the SJ kit that if I had not cut the red line to remove it I would have put it back on. Ideally this clutch line needs to be properly specked out and taken to Think Automotive or similar place to have one made which needs no adaptors.

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 Hi Andy, your right. I should have got them to make me a proper one! The red line is still ok maybe I should have just put  it back. Anyway with more parts from S and J just arrived I now think I have 99 percent of everything to finish this. Just need a year and it will be done! Off to out the radiator and fairing on!

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New Wastegate adapter with perfect valve seat. Will photograph the rebuild of the Wastegate. The radiator housing needed a lot of work too. Now just waiting to put back on.have ordered a new oil cooler the other one was seeping oil. Only£73 so a must. Where do all the pipes go in the chassis? Here is the picture you have been waiting for. Bottom right clutch upper right crossgate cable.IMG_4001.thumb.JPG.ef82a03a7c1e99ca0a3032e89ff70b64.JPGIMG_4002.thumb.JPG.4f79bca87ca4025f0ba86d3244d0b389.JPGIMG_4003.thumb.JPG.73e316b847c79d48ba7db7169db5c826.JPG

Will be fitting more grommets to the exposed edges!

Pipes and crossgate are really a two man job. They take hours if you try and do it yourself. If your wife is like mine you won't be getting help from that quarter! 

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Is that the speedo cable top right? Hmmm, no Guess it’s the cross gate cable as you wrote. How is the speedo cable route?


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Speedo through with the loom at the top of the bulkhead, with the choke cable, oil pressure sender and throttle as below. In the picture the choke cable hasn't been put in yet, I just bought a new one. Incidentally puttingbthe crossgate in before pipes makes it easier. Force majure in my case! IMG_4004.thumb.PNG.7888027b3c9b5a1b0c25d783bf778ce4.PNG

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If you have a flaring tool, could you not run the clutch hydraulics in standard brake pipe.

iirc @Barrykearley did it that way on one of his numerous Esprit adventures. Used an expansion loop in the engine bay to allow for flexing i think?

think you'd still need to get the appropriate end fittings though?  Barry?

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Old school cooler on this early Turbo. As far as I understand the system the oil cooler  pipes can go anyway around with this cooler design but the sandwich plate and thermostat pipes must be fitted correctly. I should imagine if they aren't the efficiency will be greatly affected, but I havn't tried it and don't intend to! 

5/8 BSP fittings- at the platers.

Spiro pin in back in the crossgate end, there's no stopping me now.

I noticed there is a heat sheild on the clutch cable installation?

One of my next jobs heat sheild everywhere, clutch pipe, chassis crossmember near exhaust, engine mount and a new piece of shielding clipped to the asbestos wheel arch sheild. NASA would be envious maybe they could learn from this? 

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Heater system

 Has anyone got pictures of part 20 in situ?IMG_4008.thumb.PNG.7967b7e9884e9a58870f46169f793fc3.PNG

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On 4/15/2018 at 08:46, Lotusfab said:

£3.56 for 10 plus £7 for crimp tool. Harness and fans are now done. You can't connect double wires to these fittings, so must joint to a single wire first them the waterproof connectors. New Battery rubber mat is in and battery is secured.

IMG_3986.thumb.JPG.c91813e96be7216cbcbb569a0b4781f6.JPGBrake servo pipe also fitted.IMG_3988.thumb.JPG.ac54048a69bf9f2abf84b3a3fc99adfa.JPGmaybe someone could help with the clutch master cylinder. What thread type is it? I need a straight union to connect the line M10x1 doesn't work??. Is it UNF?IMG_3989.thumb.JPG.a61dff8af86ebaffc9834834d33afa62.JPGstraght male/male union to connect them??.

The Esprit fan harness is very very simple.

I hate it when I can't find the correct thread type.  😡😡😡😡

Servo rubber  pipe is 10 mm/3/8. The wingnut on the battery is 6 mm. Don't forget the nut under the battery clap. The rubber battery mat came from S and J. 

You seem to be missing the banjo fitting Fab. Mine is like this:

Clutch.jpg

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Thanks Roo. That looks like a different set up?

A better solution though!

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32 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Heater system

 Has anyone got pictures of part 20 in situ?IMG_4008.thumb.PNG.7967b7e9884e9a58870f46169f793fc3.PNG

There you go.... They are vertical, rather than the schematically presented horizontal in the parts book.

2016-05-23-13.07.35opt.jpg

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Thanks a Richard, boughtbsome pipes off S and J they don't look like that. Maybe they are cut to fit? They are just 90 pipes but much longer.

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2 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Thanks a Richard, boughtbsome pipes off S and J they don't look like that. Maybe they are cut to fit? They are just 90 pipes but much longer.

The 90 degree end pipes are probably parts 17? 

Parts 20 are short aluminium pipes about 3 inches long. (I got mine from SJ)

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Although they don't look like the original parts!

rear lights

Have found the best thing for cleaning is panel wipe. The rear light clusters have come up very well. Today will hopefully get the wiper mechanism back in. Best to put this in before the windscreen and all the heater parts, unless your an octopuss with eight long arms! Sometimes I wonder if the guys at Lotus laughed when they made this car! 

 

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The speaker spacers have finally arrived. They move the cone away from the dash underside so the cone won't vibrate. Very important to black out the window frame surround otherwise where there are gaps in the trim in this case you would see red! IMG_4019.thumb.PNG.a4e2fb04a341e566d5beacaae97865f4.PNGDon't put the windscreen in until it has all been rebuilt as it will take so much longer with the screen in. Need to reassemble the heater system and put the front loom back. It's taking a lot of time but creeping forward at a snails pace. I keep coming across unknowns which have to be researched.

 

More parts are in primer with just the mandatory Satin black to spray. A few bits of black on the car and the painting is done, apart from the ski racks. I know how these were made after a second visit to the museum. When it's all done I will make them. They will be welded steel, treated with POR15 and a fiberglass top, as per the movie. The reason I could not make them exact is they aren't symmetrical. They follow the roof curve. This is why my original attempts failed. Never mind after a second visit I'm all over this! 

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The details are starting to get done now. Just been adding the black bits it's very laborious, but necessary. These details make the finish. IMG_4022.thumb.JPG.54f7870a1f7fd77d088b1815f7be17b8.JPGIMG_4023.thumb.JPG.b36a687db9b7cc8700be1fb86708d292.JPGyou can see the speaker mounting brackets on the right. Speaker holes have been blacked out.

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I mostly use  Epoxy paint as it bonds really well and it's what Lotus used.

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