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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 140 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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Thanks for pointing it out. I did know it was as wrong, but under pressure to get it done I was going to leave it. Now with renewed vigour it will be sorted. I'm planning on an identical replica. This hasn't been easy to achieve. From the paint colour, leather colour, suspension, wheels, cockpit stereo, speaker grilles, centre consol, air conditioning panel, ai conditioning knobs, ski racks and gearstick. My advice to anyone reading this don't build a Bond replica. To do it correctly requires much more time and money than a normal parts of the shelf resto! 

The only thing left to sort out is the ultra illusive front wheel lip. What do you mean I hear you ask, you have already made the wheels? Well what is not publicised by anyone with a Compomotive car is the from wheel lips we're done in two styles. Centre on inside of Barrel and Lip or centre outside. The centre inside is the Bond car and on this the lips is 1 x 15, 20 hole with rolled edge. They are almost impossible to find and most replicas or comp cars have 1.5 inch fronts. I have one of these so need another one. Then I will take  the fronts apart and remake them. I was hoping to have found another one but they seem to be very rare. If anyone reading this has one please contact me. As a last resort I will have one Lip made at enormous expensive but wish to avoid this if possible. These lips were made in two parts a front rolled edge on a backplate which was fused together by machine. I have another rear lip which the front could be removed and welded to a CNC rear. This would make another Lip, but Id rather buy one if there's one out there? After two years of looking I got a rear lip for £30. Then I located two more which I passed onto Tim, the chap who helped with the speaker grilles. He needed them to complete the wheels on his dry sump. Should look awesome when he's done!

So one wheel lip stands between this project and completion, oh and one Aircon knob. The PNM one was different. If anyone would like to swap out their knobs for the PNM aluminium ones I'll buy the old ones? Cheers....👍🏻

9 hours ago, Andyww said:

Paul at Cranford Eng could probably knock one of those up in 5 minutes.

Yep thanks Andy. Yep I was going to have a chat with him bout making some new ones.

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

The dry sump on ebay has spare front wheels, may be worth a try to see if he has what you need Fabian? 

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Thanks, may have to contact him.

Managed to get the gear lever out. You have to push the pivot out of the mechanism. 6 T of force and it wouldn't budge so before it cracked I sawed the bottom of the mechanism off, I could then remove the circlip and spring. Unfortunately the lever was welded to the gear shift mechanism, so had broken before at the normal place where the pin is. Now I have three choices. Weld the old lever to my thicker one. Turn the thicker one down to match the old. Or have the old one remade. Watch  this space for my solution.

IMG_5451.thumb.JPG.ab827e930c27989c638875755775c1f6.JPG

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Still needs a lot more work😬😬😬😬😬

Now I have to take the gear lever apart again!

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On 10/11/2018 at 19:16, Lotusfab said:

Does anyone have experience with CNC lathes? I was thinking it should be possible to cut exactly the same gear lever on a lathe?

@Buddsy has just bought a posh new CNC machine :)

45458971_2214475205230563_19254104741747

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88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Wow! Looks like he's about to transport someone half way round the Universe! I'll settle for a gear change lever!

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Certainly coming along Fabian.

I wish my progress was moving as good. Too cold to work in the garage these days.

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51 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

You must be nearly finished?

Yes, about 85%, but from experience it's the last 10% that takes 40% of the time etc. If I could find a decent, interested auto-electrician that could sort out my front loom electrics I'd be almost ready for the windscreen and tailgate glass to go in and an inspection.

Working in an unheated, illuminated single garage that's virtually a lock-up isn't great once the autumn sets in.

I could do with some S1-based preparation/fitting tips on this stage to do and pass on to the windscreen fitter.

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Mmm, no heat no work! I can help within the windscreen. 8 spacer blocks. 4 mm cut from rubber. Their position is critical. You can see them in my picture. You place them in accordance with the Lotus manual,but they must be placed so the metal trim fits flush with the body. Small changes in block position mean a big change in glass position. No easy way just takes time. Super glue them to the body else they will move. Then position the windscreen central and support it off the wiper support and wiper with small blocks, to stop it slipping. When you have got the position bend the metal trim to fit. It may have to be cut. The edge of the metal trim should be flush with the plastic silver trim, looks much nicer! Very small hand pressure and not just in one area. It should lie flat on glass with no gaps when done. Then remove windscreen. Prep it and colour the black border with dinitrol. Remember the boarder must finish just beyond the inside trim else you can see down the edges from the front of the car, not nice!  Then bead of dinitrol to outer edge of glass. Don't cut the nozzle how Lotus suggest, it doesn't work and makes a huge mess! Use the dinitrol nozzle. 5 mm bead and extra where the window gaps are larger. Test for leaks with water when set! Job done! 

I removed the gear lever mechanism from the car. It's now with an engineering workshop then off to the Chromers. 

I use Paul at Cranford Engineering Leatherhead if anyone needs a good engineer? 

Another leatherhyde has just arrived more recolouring😫😫😫😫😫😫 No wonder Lotus didn't make money out of this there's far too much work!

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12 hours ago, Bibs said:

@Buddsy has just bought a posh new CNC machine :)

Ive made a few gear levers for classic team Lotus as it happens :-)

If you just need a circlip groove just adding in you probably dont even need a cnc lathe. I have a couple though.

 

buddsy

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"Belief is the enemy of knowing" - Crrow777

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Hi Buddsy,

have sent you a PM. I have already given the bits to an engineering company. But if you have already have a thin gear lever I'm interested. Here's the thin one I need. Did you copy the 7 mm thread or upgrade it to 8 mm?IMG_5450.thumb.JPG.500edb46a3c9e5d42175ba238a55c81f.JPG

All of the fiberglassing stuff has arrived. So I now have to remove the clock enclosure from the header rail and fiberglass it in. 

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Windscreen 

IMG_5474.thumb.JPG.ac37dae4f5ae0042fa324d2dc5971997.JPGI measured the black banding on the original screen. Here it is. Remember Lorus used Betaseal not Dinitrol so we have to adapt to the new products. Here's a close up of the little rubber spacers.IMG_5469.thumb.JPG.8607ed36850bbca6db1bfab56158355f.JPG. I made these out of a rubber sheet. Putting the window in is all in the prep and measuring. The Dinitrol is the easy bit- unless you have a cold tube. Then your hand will fall off long before you have managed to squeeze a bead if it out! Nozzle with a V hold gun so that the crest of bead tends towards the outer edge. It didn't take me long to prep this screen, but then I have had a lot of practice. Getting the trims correct is the hard bit. I intend to glue them with silicone sealant so they can be removed easily! 

You really need those screen sucker holders, without them it's so much more difficult!

It's also a two man job. I did the S1 screen mostly on my own but it was very tricky and risky.

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Pull the mask tape off when it's still wet, make sure the pinstripe in wheel pressed down!IMG_5476.thumb.JPG.17b8638e436d2fb272b94ea1c4721101.JPG

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My most important window fitting tip. Once the window is in that's where your work starts. You MUST clean off all excess sealant, especially in the gullets where the trim pieces fit and onthe inside where the header goes. Else you will have a real shock when you come to fit these parts and they won't fit. They you will have to try and get rid of excess sealant without damaging the body when the sealant is hard. Not impossible, but having done it before I really can't recommend it! Saving yourself hours of work and clean it off before it's set. That's all for my window fitting tips. Good luck and Don't Do It!, get in  some other mug! 😀😀😀😀😀

Hopefully the Cold War will be back on and MR Bond may need some old equipment! Any Pinewood agents these cars will soon be available!

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That's a lovely result Fabian, thanks for the great tutorial! Is there no trim across the top of the screen?

Cheers

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30 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

My most important window fitting tip. Once the window is in that's where your work starts. You MUST clean off all excess sealant, especially in the gullets where the trim pieces fit and onthe inside where the header goes. Else you will have a real shock when you come to fit these parts and they won't fit. They you will have to try and get rid of excess sealant without damaging the body when the sealant is hard. Not impossible, but having done it before I really can't recommend it! Saving yourself hours of work and clean it off before it's set. That's all for my window fitting tips. Good luck and Don't Do It!, get in  some other mug! 😀😀😀😀😀

Hopefully the Cold War will be back on and MR Bond may need some old equipment! Any Pinewood agents these cars will soon be available!

I won't be Fabian. That's for certain.

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59 minutes ago, drdoom said:

That's a lovely result Fabian, thanks for the great tutorial! Is there no trim across the top of the screen?

Cheers

Thanks Steve. Yep there's trim on the top. I have to wait for the glue to set then I will silicone the trim. There are clips that slot into the top and sides. The trims have to be cut to fit. They are quite soft and easy to file. You can see I have already bent them to fit so they are  almost perfect without glue. With glue and clamps they will be pretty reasonable. I'm waiting for the clamps to arrive, as I have lost my last set. They have a sucker as a pivot and you can stick them on the glass and tighten them to hold the trim. Will post some more pics when it's finished.

Not a bad fit without glue.IMG_5477.thumb.JPG.bcfb2289a74206812cd9dea642f9e0da.JPG

You do have to spend a bit of time bending them to shape.

Once you get these back together that's when the works starts, shimming and painting to get it to a higher standard. I'm please so far with how it's coming out. Twos years invested though!

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