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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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Wow, gazing at this work in quiet state of awe! Utterly stellar results, Fabian, the plaid as much for its loony joie-de-vivre as for the incomparable workmanship. :clap:

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On the windscreen, be careful with the clamps. They put a lot of strain on the glass and could crack it if you tighten them too much. The trim shouldn't need that much pressure as it should rready be bent to shape. It's not  a quick job. You have to file the ends to fit and apply gentle pressure to the trim to bend it. Too much in the same place and it will distort and look horrid. If this happens buy another bit and start again! Expensive but worth it in the long run. I've had quite a bit of practice with all this and still make horredus mistakes. Hopefully nearly  all of them you can do again. If it's a one way job check and recheck before doing something that can't be reversed! 

My projects over the next few days are. Wastegate rebuild and driveshafts. Will post some pics when I get these sorted! 

Im looking forward to doing the engine. . 

When I bought the car I was told the engine had been rebuilt by an Historic F1 chap. I have ran it once and it sounded sweet. I have receipts, but no pictures. I am always sceptical about rebuilds that are not supported with pictures so I had a look in the head and took the sump off. It looks in pretty good shape. I have still been debating whether to remove the head completely and have a close up look. I'm thinking at the moment of leaving as is as it ran so well, no misfires and real smooth. Knowing what I know about these engines and bearing in mind it hasn't been on the road for 14 years with all the new parts on the engine I'm guessing the person who assembled it must have tuned it and knew what they were doing. So I probably will remove all the ancillaries, fit a new timing belt and bearing and detail the rest.

The gear box I plan to remove the cover, check all of the gear wheels for damage and rotate the shaft to check the bearings. If all seems ok it will be a refresh and new oil. If not off to the gearbox rebuilders! 

I shall be rebuilding the carbs and cleaning them in a sonic bath. Lots if pics to follow sometime next week! IMG_2664.thumb.JPG.701df409bd55f4c6fca4cb048a644871.JPGIMG_2666.thumb.JPG.a6090a2504c27d606ccb4fb97cb2f955.JPGIMG_2672.thumb.JPG.11c36ae8a460cd7c5b2634f335c728e6.JPGThis is what I saw when I took the sump off, real clean with new sealant.

After studying all of the engine restoration processes I'm going with a good clean and paint. If it's good enough for those Ferrari Chaps it's good enough for Lotus! Must take the oil pump off and have a detailed look! Will be nice to get the engine back in. It should have been put back on the chassis first, but time constraints didn't allow it! 

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I will also report on the Turbo. I rebuilt it almost two years ago now. I marked the shaft positions and assembled it as was. Many said I should balance it. So I intend to run it as is and report as to how it runs. Any vibration and it will all be taken apart and balanced, so wait and see! 

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I should do my turbo. The bolts have no heads left so I will have a challenge with that!

I know people have rebuilt these without balancing before but I would be very tempted to take it to a turbo place to have them run it up for peace of mind, which presumably they could do on the spot. I am not sure how you would tell if its out of balance after fitting, other than when its too late! I doubt any vibration manifests itself outside of the actual rotor as its so light compared to the whole thing.

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Dont take the head off for no reason.  Why not just spin it up out of the car for a compression check?  I assume you've already  checked your valve crearances are good.

Every turbo I've seen (not that many!) has evidence of balancing (the ground down spindle securing nut).   That suggests to me it should be done for long life.   On the other hand very few G Esprits seem to do many miles these days, so even a home balance may be OK for the next 20 years.....      

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43 minutes ago, 910Esprit said:

Dont take the head off for no reason.  Why not just spin it up out of the car for a compression check?  I assume you've already  checked your valve crearances are good.

Every turbo I've seen (not that many!) has evidence of balancing (the ground down spindle securing nut).   That suggests to me it should be done for long life.   On the other hand very few G Esprits seem to do many miles these days, so even a home balance may be OK for the next 20 years.....      

Doubt if this car will get many miles. But interesting to see how the Turbo will perform. Good idea to test the compression. I will do this and decide whether to take the head off based on the results.

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Ski racks

well I'm going to,have a go at the rear ski rack IMG_0477.thumb.JPG.4b64055edaf1d16b895c24cfe2158f11.JPGIMG_0300.thumb.JPG.047440b4b05ac7c2efd4abff9fd7cf55.JPGIMG_0465.thumb.JPG.f4b0240ef831b83fc675ac4b2056bc40.JPGfirst. The process I have decided on has many stages. You can see from the picture that to date everyone I have seen has failed to replicate these exactly. You can see from the top picture they are on a metal plate which overlaps the rear Louvre.

This is the process.

1. Cardboard templates FO r cross section.

2. Styrofoam cutting with hot knife.

3, cover in epoxy resin and glass cloth.

4. Full with Epoxy filler and smooth.

then the cleaver bit. Make a split mould so the back of the rack can be cast indecently. These moulds will be used to make two parts which will be joined at the seem. They won't be loadbearing as we have seen they crack. Underneath an aluminium construction that is bolted to the tailgate and takes the ski loads. Sounds simple, but let's see how it turns out. I have considered carbon fiber which may be simpler, but Ive used it before!

 

 

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Getting it done!IMG_5515.thumb.JPG.61cc3350073ee0bfb5f147a8066de750.JPGIMG_5518.thumb.JPG.7d3aae26a8485bd54c21bdcea5211789.JPGwindscreen finished.IMG_5519.thumb.JPG.ff52f5cbf955562a1ad74b10f0020739.JPGfinally connected the vacuum reservoir.

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I used the dry method for fixing the decals. Make sure the body is clean before applying. Use tape the Mark the corner positions of the decal so you can get the placement correct. Use a pin to burst bubbles and rub them out. 

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Got all of the decals done today except the very rear ones. I replaced a few connectors IMG_5521.thumb.JPG.3e9111f034c07eae7754895893ac6341.JPG on the rear of the loom where previous owners had been modifying them! Quite easy with the correct tools! 

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Funny enough I put the electrics on to testbthe fuel tank gauage(which didn't work) and that light pod popped up! I had to wind it down by hand. I've got a feeling there will be weeks of electrical diagnostics ahead!😩😩😩😩

My latest problem Is the wiper leads aren't long enough because I put the wiper control box in the wrong place! Will have to get used to lying upside down under the dash again!

On a brighter note the gearstick from Pete at PNM has now been sorted by Cranford engineering and will be off to get chromed. A few things are outstanding

knob for Aircon - if anyone has one I'm your man! 

Aircon graphics panel

It's really coming along quite quickly at the moment.

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Electrics

just thought it might be useful for some of you to have more info on the electrics. So I'm thinking of posting what doesn't work electrically and the solutions.

At the moment the headlights, right indicator and fuel gauge are not working. Firstly I'm going to connect the stalks to the steering colum. To do this I have to move the wiper control. It's screwed into the dash base in the wrong place. Once this is moved the stalks can go back on. Then I will look to fix the other issues. Most of the time the electrical faults are bad connections. Either at the fuse box or switch contact. Contact cleaner and cycling switches may fix it. You must have an ohm meter to check for continuity. With the headlights the motor brushes or internal switch contacts in the motor may be the fault. I have serviced all motors on this car, but that doesn't always fix things!

So when I have the stalks in I will report back. The rear lights are all disconnected as he rear spoiler has to come off again. 

Oh, and you must have the circuit diagram. There are some wires in the engine bay I havn't heat identified, as I'm only familiar with the S1 wiring. This car has a lot of extra circuits. Most of these wires are redundant as modern electronic ignition is fitted. The luminition was removed years ago.

Right, off to put the stalks back on!

By the way I really like doing electrics, it's one of my favourite jobs. Some of the body stuff is necessary, but really boring!

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You probably know this but it caught me out!  The wiper control box, being designed for a metal car has an earth wire with a round tag on one of the screws holding it to the dash. If this is not connected it wont work.  

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Thanks Andy, I didn't know that! I have reversed the box and have the stalks in, easy so far. Now will have to test it! By not working do you mean the wipers won't move or the timing circuit won't work? Where does it earth to? Looks like a plastic case?

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Fuel gauge problem solved. I changed the sender and the new one has no earth, so I don't connect the earth wire! IMG_5524.thumb.JPG.88936743325cba3ea781e34e31fe8d1f.JPGAll three must attach to the sender!

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The wipers dont work without the earth tag, its a typical piece of Lucas (lack of) design where there is a rivet through the plastic, which carries current, and gets warm, causes the plastic to melt which reduces the connection more, and melts more... mine was shot and I re-wired by soldering an earth wire inside the case to the PCB.

The earth tag should be floating about in there somewhere, from the harness.

On my car I fitted the stalks 180 degrees rotated so they are more conventional layout but that would not be Bond Car original :)

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It’s all in the detail Fabian - the thinner chromed gearstick you’ll have is a much better looking thing than the thicker later black one👏

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Drivers side - indicator on wing not working. Push fit bulb contacts had failed. Left Hi beam light not working dirty connection - fixed. 

The main light switch still has dirty contacts, this is probably the number one reason for the lights not popping up! . I plan to clean it In an ultra sonic bath and use contact cleaner. 

The fibre optic light source for instrument illumination is not working. The bulb light source comes on but there is no light from the fibres. Any ideas? I thought maybe dirt so will have to take it apart. 

 

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Fibre optics

For those of you that don't know the instruments are illuminated by bulbs and a fiberoptic system illuminates the switches. What is this fibre optic system? It's simply a bulb holder and the light from the bulb is transmitted to the switches by. Fibre optic leads. These are like wires but instead of electricity they transmit light using Total internal reflection(look this up if interested). So my switches don't illluminate despite the bulb in the fibre optic source illuminating, Why? The only thing I can think of is dirt. There must be dirt on the end of the fibre optic wires. So now I have to take it all to pieces and clean it! If that doesn't work I'm at a loss. Will report back as to the solution.

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